Category: Landscapes/scenery

Trevi and on to Tirreno-Adriatico Stage 5

Leaving Asciano early – without breakfast or even a cup of tea (because of lack of electrics again) – we stopped in Castigliano del Lago for groceries. There was some kind of race going on – it looked like a walking/running race perhaps around the lake. After we parked once again at the aire in San Feliciano I saw one of the runners – looking fairly fit, but puffing on a vape as he ran.

The aire was almost totally packed – most of them likely here for the race. There also were two tour buses that pulled up and discorged several dozen old folks who proceeded to amble along the lakeside promenade into the town. I was walking Max at the time and the volume of them seemed to intimidate him a bit – we decided to return to the camperan rather than venture into the village for tea.

I do have a comment about the lake…Trasimeno is the third largest lake in Italy and you can literally see the perimeter of the entire lake from where we are. The surface area of the lake is just over a third of that of Okanagan Lake, and overall that’s around 350 square km. In contrast Lake Superior is over 82,000 sq km of surface area.

It doesn’t mean one is more beautiful than the other, however, although Trasimeno does have a slightly more violent history. Hannibal played a trick on the Romans when he was invading, and they killed so many Romans that part of the lake turned red with their blood. Also, in WWII the Canadians broke through the Nazi line on the west side of the lake in one of many battles on the Allies’ way up from the south.

We met the new estate agents at the house in Papiano on Tuesday afternoon. Basically the woman spent most of her time making excuses for the lack of attention to the terrace. This is how the terrace should look…

…and this is how it looks now:

In the meantime I took the fellow outside with me and played ‘bad cop’ ranting about the terrace to the poor guy for about 15 minutes. I think we got it through to them that we weren’t happy and that something had to be done – as we had requested several times.

We left Papiano for Trevi, where we spent a couple of nice nights at the aire there, and had a lovely lunch at one of our favourite restaurants – La Vecchia Posta. We both wanted the roast wild boar but were told that that needed to be pre-ordered so settled for the wild boar ragout pasta instead, which was, of course, delicious.

We left after two nights for Fossombrone to find the route for stage 5 of Tirreno Adriatico. Miss GPS took us on a route we hadn’t been on before, and it was just beautiful – lots of lovely little towns and wide green valleys. Even the road surfaces weren’t too bad!

We found, as usual, an excellent place to park on one of the climbs for a couple of nights and settled in to wait for the race the next day. There are lots of deer and wild boar around here – I think we hear the wild boars sometimes at night, and I’ve seen several deer in the field across the way in the late evening.

Race morning was not bad – not so much wind, and not raining.

Coverage on the tv didn’t start until right around where we were, but as usual all of the police motos and the helicopter…

…let us know when the riders were near.

Alaphillipe was in the breakaway of seven or eight, with the peloton following around 5 minutes behind. Colin lucked out as the EF rider threw his bidon directly to him – it was the one he wanted the most this year.

After the last rider had passed we retired into the campervan and watched the last half of the race on tv.

From just down the road you can see Fano (I think) and the Adriatic Sea in the distance.

Papiano Terrace Dismay – and Strade Bianche!!

When we visited the house in Papiano we were dismayed to see the state of the terrace – it’s so covered in ivy it looks like the little house is being eaten! The lovely terrace is one of the best features of the house and the estate agents have let it go to shit – despite several requests from Colin to please have it tended.

We made an effort for over an hour – having brought some gardening tools with us, but it was just too much for us. A meeting with the agent and a demand to get some help are in order!

After our disappointment with the house we stopped for lunch at Monte Buono on our way back to the aire on the lake – the food was delicious as usual, with me taking home over half of my seafood lasagne for tomorrow’s breakfast.

Later that afternoon I took Max for a walk and visited the small supermarket to get some essentials (ok – wine!!). At the checkout there was a man ahead of me that was purchasing one bottle of beer – the cashier opened it for him and he had it half finished by the time he was out the door. Then Max – the little moocher that implies to everyone that he never gets fed – got a nice little piece of the next fellow’s salami sandwich.

We decided to get to Asciano nice and early so headed there on Thursday to spend the night in the local aire, before going to our favourite place to watch Strade Bianche. It’s partway along the section named for Fabian Cancellero – or maybe just a bit past it.

We got to the space before 9 in the morning and there was only one campervan already there – he was parked in an awkward way and took the space of probably three others but we had plenty of room so it wasn’t our problem.

Several more campervans joined us throughout the day – two of them were related to each other so it’s nice that they both got a space. Sometime in the late evening our electrics started failing – apparently we can’t watch tv all day and charge all of our devices and expect the solar panel and battery to carry it all – bummer! We spent the night with no lights available for loo trips but made it through ok. Within an hour or so of the sun rising on race-day morning the battery was almost recharged and we were okay for the rest of the day – although we did try to not run too many things at the same time.

The campervan next to us had a little boy – maybe about four or so – he was just adorable and one of the local farmers took him for a ride around the fields on his caterpillar/tractor.

Race day started out nice and sunny, and the usual parade of amateur riders and fans started to pass by. One family were quite obviously Pogacar fans – even the little girl’s face had a Slovenian flag painted on it.

Because we’d been able to get the starlink back up we knew when the race was nearing us and who was in front – but we didn’t really need the tv as we could see the helicopters and the motos were racing past us, and the dust was rising on the road as they approached.

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The first to pass us were three riders from UAE – with Pogacar in the middle of two team-mates. It was quite dusty and the wind direction had unfortunately changed – the flags were hanging better but the dust got everywhere!

We saw on the tv that Pogacar made his move on one of the next climbs, ending up once again going solo for many miles before winning for the fourth time – well done!

We stayed until the end of the race before taking down our flags, saying farewell to our neighbours and going back to the aire in Asciano for the night. Once again we’d drained the electrics a bit but it was quite alright for the night.

Finally Italy!!

After another lovely lunch at Le Breuil we started packing up the campervan on a Monday afternoon and got a start on the road on a Tuesday morning. Having decided not to rush we’ve given ourselves plenty of time and plan to have a nice leisurely journey down to Italy to deal with the house in Papiano.

The first day we made it as far as Saint Georges D’Aurac, after a challenging time getting through Claremont-Ferrand.

We parked for the night near the back of a churchyard…

…luckily they turned the bells off at around 9 so we didn’t have to listen to them all night long.

The second day we continued our leisurely pace and headed east past Valence, then south to Crest and east again just past Die, stopping at another aire in the village of Beaurieres.

Just after we parked an old fellow with a very shaggy dog approached us and we let him know we were only going to be there for one night and did not need electrics or anything – no problem. There’s a local hunting club with a facility right next to the campground but we never saw any wild boar when we were there, although there were indications that they were active in the area.

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After a very quiet night we got a good start again and made our way through Gap and north to Briancon then across the border to….Italy!! We haven’t been here in three years and it’s great to be back!

We made it to the aire behind the Lidl’s in Pinerolo in good time and had

another nice, early, quiet night. We’re loving the Starlink that we got installed – we can now both access unlimited wi-fi, watch tv – whatever – it’s just great.

Getting going again at a good time we headed south towards the coast and stopped at a lovely cafe/bar for a beverage.

We hit the coast and skirted Genoa on the new overpass, leaving the motorway a short while later and heading a bit north to the small town of San Pietro Vara.

There’s a lovely flat aire right next to the river and in walking distance of the town.

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The afternoon we arrived we had a drink in one of the local cafe/bars, and the next morning we went to different one to relax a bit. We saw not one, but two beautiful cars going through the village – the first was a Porsche in a gorgeous aqua/blue colour, and the second was a Lotus. Honestly if I could have the Lotus in the aqua/blue colour that would be my dream car! No room for a dog or any luggage…but…!!

On the way back to the campervan to watch Omloop on the tv we passed a vending machine that sells milk!

Wanting to get going on Sunday morning we hit the road early. Since the cafe in the village was already open we picked up a couple of paninis to go (for lunch) and headed for the motorway. They’ve finally made some progress on the construction, but there was a bit of a slow-down just past Firenza. Thankfully it wasn’t too bad and we made it to the aire at Lago Trasimeno by early afternoon.

More Farmers’ Protests, Christmas Lamb

Well…it seems to have been awhile since I Iast posted – it feels like just last week! Colin had a couple of appointments that went well, also the usual blood test, etc.

We had another very nice meal at Le Cheval Blanc in Luxe, although we had a bit of unanticipated ‘entertainment’ throughout. To start we had a drink that was accompanied by a small plate of four different appetizers – each as delicious as the last. The main course was awesome – steak, done somewhat rare even though we asked for medium-well (we might have been asked to leave if we’d requested ‘well done’ – haha). Anyway all of the food was so good, except that at the table next to us was a couple that were doing a video – we figured out that the restaurant approved it as the wait-staff posed along with the food. The problem was that the woman taking the video kept getting up and backing up against our table to get a ‘better shot’ – at one point her backside was right over the edge of our table and when she bent over to get the proper vantage point her sweater rode up and we could see her butt-crack – as we were eating! I debated pouring a bit of our ice-water down her pants but decided to ‘take the high road’ and do nothing. At least it provided a bit of different conversation for us! We found out a few days later that the video was for a review of the restaurant for a local papier.

Max had a vet appointment, plus a teeth cleaning (which was badly needed – he really had bad ‘doggy breath’).

We also had a couple of nice meals at the Penalty Bar, but ended up staying home a lot most days in front of the fire.

In the middle of December we headed back down to Spain. As the farmers were protesting (yet again) we had to adjust our route continually to try to avoid them, although we did pass a few sights where they’d been.

We also did encounter a few dozen in one small town, although they only slowed us down a bit, rather than totally blocking the road.

Being back down at the house was great – I like it so much here. We had one small problem with the pellet burner, but were only without heat for a couple of days before we got it back running.

We had some more painting done by our neighbour Juani – the kitchen and foyer are now pristine again. She mentioned that the laundry room and attached bathroom could use a coat of paint, and she’s not wrong. Colin went to Ikea in Murcia and got some better shelving units for the laundry room so we’ve already booked Juani for sometime in March to give it a freshening up.

We had a delicious Christmas dinner – slow cooked boneless leg of lamb. We got it from a local farmer who also gave us the bone to flavour the gravy. I started it at six in the morning and it slow cooked for eight hours – it was so tender and delicious – complete with rosemary and thyme from the west garden. I thought we’d have left-overs for days but there was barely enough left for sandwiches the next day.

We’ve had a few very windy days as well as some torrential rains, but also some very nice sunny and warm days – I think it got up to 14 C a day or two ago.

We had a lovely day-trip yesterday to San Jose, which is on the coast just north of the tip of Capo de Gata.

Once again we managed to find the best restaurant, and our meals were excellent.

There were many little stray cats in the area and I wanted to catch and take every one home – especially a little black one with a gimpy back leg. He would have been relatively easy to catch but having a cat in a campervan is probably not the best idea.

We have met several folks over the years that have had travelling cats but it would add extra work for us.

Seaside Lunches, and (Finally!) Sad Hill Cemetery

The house painting got finished and it’s beautiful! We got the sun room painted the same colour, even though we just got it painted white two years ago.

The Renault was ready before the campervan, and when picking it up we just continued on to the coast to Mojacar, where we stopped for a drink at one of the hundreds of cafe/bars along the coast road. At least at this time of year it’s not quite so infested with tourists, although there were still quite a few brits around. I imagine that many of them do live here year-round.

We arrived in Carbonaras and had a wonderful lunch at a restaurant right across from the beach.

It’s owned by a brother and sister and the meal was one of the best we’ve had in a long time.

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A few days after picking up the Renault we retrieved the campervan – they still have a couple of little things to do but as we’re going back to France soon we couldn’t just leave it there. We took another little road trip to a bit further down the coast and ended up at the Isleta del Moro.

We had another lunch, but not quite as good as the one in Carboneras, although we did have some ‘entertainment’.

There was a ‘photo shoot’ happening on the beach with two very bored looking young ladies – it went on for almost the entire time we were there.

There were also some diving lessons going on…

We got on the way back to France and decided to take our time for once. The first day was a bit long, but we stopped at Santo Domingo de Silos to try – for the second time – to find Sad Hill Cemetery.

The hotel we’d booked was quite nice – very quiet at night and good breakfast in the morning.

Once again it was a challenge to find the route to Sad Hill. We ended up going the ‘long way’ and approaching from the north, which was, in fact, the easier drive.

It was well worth the effort of trying to find it – not once, but twice! It seemed to us that a little bit of signage on how to actually get there would be beneficial. It’s quite funny but in Spanish they call it ‘The Good, The Ugly and The Bad’ – not sure why!

The site itself is well presented, and even at this time of year there would have been at least 50 or more folks there throughout the day – as long as they could find it!

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The cemetery was originally made by the Spanish army for the film, although the site was left derelict and now has been reconstructed by a society. There are what look like some real graves and there are many crosses for folks you know have never been there.

It was pretty cool to see the stone circle where the final confrontation happened in the movie, as well as the ‘hanging tree’.

Apparently Robert Redford is buried here – NOT!! Although there is a cross with his name on it right next to the circle. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen little Max so excited – he ran around like crazy and literally flew over the ‘graves’ whenever we called him.

We took the other road out – the one that goes to Santo Domingo.

Near the top there’s a good view point where you can see the whole place, including the valley that Clint (the ‘Good’) rode down when the movie ended.

The remainder of the trip was pretty good, and also quite entertaining. We took a less travelled road, and it was so nice! The scenery was beautiful, but the really unique thing was that there was all sorts of ‘livestock’ everywhere, including on the road – cows, horses, donkeys.

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It was a nice short drive up to Logrono to pick up a few cases of Rioja, and a one night stay at a nice hotel – Max had his own bed (although he still slept on my bed between my feet). There was a very good breakfast in the morning – maybe the best since the place in Austria several years ago.

The rest of the journey home was alright, although we sometimes wonder what planet Miss GPS thinks we’re on. In any case we got here just before dark, turned on the water and water heater and got a fire going in time for a nice cozy evening.

Return to Rio Luna, and Vuelta up San Lorenzo

We left the house on a Thursday morning and made it as far north as the lake just past El Tiemblo, where we’d stopped a couple of years ago. I took a lovely photo of the lake near sunset, and when looking back at the last time we were here I seem to have taken an almost identical photo – I guess when I like something I like it!

After a nice quiet night we got going north again fairly early, avoiding toll-roads and arriving at our favourite campground Rio Luna.

We spent a few days just chilling out, going for a couple of nice walks, and watching the Vuelta on the tv in the campground’s bar – while sipping some nice Rioja.

On our second day here I had a fight with a folding lawn chair…

…I lost.

Two days before the stage we came to see we took a little re-con drive to the general area, and decided to go to the second-to-last climb rather than the last one.

There are a couple of places along the way where the fires had swept down one mountain, across the road and up the other side.

Luckily there aren’t any bad ones around the area at the moment, although it was a horrible summer in some places.

Back at the campground one of the local ranchers was moving his herd of sheep, taking some time for them to graze in the field just outside the campground’s fence before moving them along.

We got up quite early the next morning to head to the mountain we’d chosen for Saturday’s race, leaving just as it was getting light.

It was still misty when we got to the top of the San Lorenzo, and we found a wonderful wide spot that only had two other campervans parked.

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We had a couple of nice walks – there are lots of horses and cows on the hills and they’re not all fenced in.

By evening there were many more campervans both behind and in front of us, and during the next morning we couldn’t believe how many more managed to squish in.

An enterprising fellow brought an ice-cream truck up – he also had chips and beer – looked like he was doing a good business.

Our ‘Belgian friends’ arrived in their huge bus, this time with Tudor on it rather than Quickstep. They stopped and said a quick hello to me (I was out walking Max) before heading back down the climb to park. Later in the day they walked up and we had a really nice chat – we first met them several years ago and have seen them regularly at many different races in several different countries. They are Alaphilippe supporters thus the sponsor name change on their bus. It was really nice to see them again.

At one point one of the black horses and her little foal started walking down the road and a car was coming up from below us – I made the ‘slow down’ motion to him. When he stopped I realized he was the horses’ owner and he got them back up the track where they would be safe.

The Palestinian protesters had been busy – there were slogans painted on the road, and stickers on all of the signs denouncing Israel, etc. Colin and I, and also one of our neighbouring campervaners scratched off as many as we could. Then later Colin noticed that many of the signposts up and down the road had cardboard painted with Palestinian flags tied to them. I walked down about ½ km and tore them all off the posts – almost every single person parked along the road either gave me the ‘thumbs up’, said ‘good job’ or ‘thank you’!

There was one woman sitting on the road almost across from our campervan who actually said ‘don’t you support other people’s right to their opinion?’ and I countered with ‘I do, but this is a cycling race, not a political forum’. Our neighbour also told her to shut up.

We did get, of course, a marker for ‘top of the climb’, along with a bit of barrier – also several well-armed policemen. I had a nice chat with one of them and they’re not going to tolerate any guff from any protestors.

There have been a couple of issues with protestors intefering with racers, and there’s talk of changing the final day into Madrid. Not to mention that the Israel Premium Tech team is under pressure to withdraw – they’ve already removed ‘Israel’ from their jerseys and I’m sure some of the riders are more than a little anxious. Again – it’s a sporting event!

As usual we knew when the riders were getting close because of the helicopters and motos, then we could see them snaking up the hairpins below us.

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It took a while for everyone to pass, then we walked up to where a group of folks were gathered outside a campervan. The fellow had swivelled his tv out the door and we all got to watch the final climb up past Saliencia with Soler – a spanish rider – triumphant at the finish. A really, really good and fun couple of days on the side of a mountain.

Local Races, Doctors and Tests, Lunches and New Car

Most of the terrace plants are doing really well – we haven’t been at the house this long in past years so they’re getting tended and watered more. The jasmine especially is very lush, and the two tomato plants have sprouted up like crazy.

Colin’s hernia operation went well – he has a follow-up appointment soon to make sure all is ok. I convinced him to use my upstairs bedroom for a week while I used the spare bedroom/office/library. Thus he didn’t have to go up and downstairs as much and all he had to do was move into the lounge to get to the couch and watch tv while he recuperated.

The ‘honey man’ is at the market every Friday morning – I’ve tried several of his products and all are delicious. We also get what we can from the veggie people, and have tried scallops from the fish guy.

We took a drive to Confolens one day for fish and chips – it ended up being a bit of an ‘adventure’. First of all we went in the campervan as the fish and chip shop is quite small and in case there wasn’t room we’d be able to park somewhere nice and eat inside the campervan.

There were roadworks on the way and the main diversion included going under a bridge with fairly low clearance. We couldn’t fit under so turned around and ended up following another campervan that seemed to know where they were going, eventually getting across the river and into the town. To top it all off the cafe was closed due to ‘it being too hot to open’!

We’ve been to the little restaurant at Villognon several times now and always enjoy what we get, although I must say that the duck confit I had the first time was my favourite.

We helped out at the annual ‘kids’ races in Saint Angeau, parking the campervan at a side road near the finish line to marshall any traffic and prevent them from turning in either direction. Luckily there was a french lady on the other side of the main road doing the same thing and she took care of most of the interactions with the drivers. There was only one driver that was somewhat ornery, but at least he did as directed and didn’t try to run us over.

The following weekend we helped again at another race – the Paul Poux, which has about 300 entrants and covers three different routes of varying lengths. This time Colin and I were at different places – he was right in Goue and I was just down the road at another spot. I was very nervous about being alone and not being understood so I printed up four papers in french with phrases on them such as ‘there is a cycling race on’ and ‘you may only turn left when I tell you it’s safe’.

There ended up being many more cars than I expected entering and leaving my little side road, but every driver was extremely nice and co-operative and several laughed at my phrase pages. Luckily the races had started early as it was getting very hot by the time we left around 10:30.

On our way to Aigre one day we saw that the restaurant in Villejesus had re-opened. We were very happy to see that and stopped on the way home for a drink. There’s a nice war memorial across the road…

…we went back several days later to have lunch but they wouldn’t let the dog inside and we didn’t want to sit on the outside area as it’s right on the road so ended up getting pizza from one of the places in Aigre.

The next weekend we helped out at yet another local race – this time the regional gravel championships.

There are many ‘white roads’ around here and it was a sunny and hot day. We were assisting at the water table, handing out bottles as the riders passed. I ended up taking over the opening of the bottles and setting them out on the table for the others to ‘hand’ to the riders as they pass – not as easy as it might sound in some cases.

Colin got a new car! He’d been looking online for a Porsche Panamera but decided that the potential maintenance costs could get pretty high so we ended up at the BMW dealership in Angouleme. He’s dealt with them for many years and ended up getting a lovely sporty coupe.

I wouldn’t want to be getting in and out of the back seat as a passenger but the dog likes it, and the hatch/storage area is huge. Apparently it’s really nice to drive but I haven’t tried it out yet – I’m fairly comfortable with the ‘old’ blue one (which we have kept) but will eventually have a go with the new one.

We made another trip up to Confolens and had success this time with the ‘english’ fish and chips. The shop is quite small and there’s only sitting outside with space for about 20 people. We were lucky as we hadn’t made reservations and it was the best fish and chips I’ve had in a long time. Having delicious local french cuisine at one of the many restaurants we now frequent is one thing, but fish and chips brings fond memories from childhood.

We took delivery of firewood for next winter – the pile seemed so large when we started…

…but it only took about 90 minutes – with a small break – to stack it neatly on the lower terrace.

Colin had a follow-up appointment with the hernia surgeon and she was quite pleased with his recovery. He also had an initial appointment with a urologist – he was one of the rudest professional people I’ve ever encountered. First of all, when we were in the waiting area a woman came out one door and muttered ‘that was very rude!’. When we’d gone in we realized why – the doctor was constantly saying very nasty things under his breath in french because Colin’s french isn’t perfect, especially when it comes to medical terms. Part of the problem was that I understood much of what the doctor was saying and it took all of my self-control not to reach out and slap him, then dramatically storm out. I really hope that Colin doesn’t need surgery as that doctor was horrible.

On a nicer note we got a small bird-bath for our feathered friends – it has a solar-powered pump that makes a little fountain so now they have a fat-ball feeder, a lovely seed feeder (made by Claire) and now a water source.

Quick Trip Back and Forth

We decided to return to Spain for another couple of weeks as we’re not heading up to Belgium until late March for the Spring Classics. Rather than go in the campervan we zipped down in the BMW, stopping at a hotel southwest of Zaragoza.

At one time it must have been quite the place – lovely gardens, and thermal hot springs/spa. The room was nice, but there wasn’t much sound-proofing.

Breakfast the next morning was nearly the best we’ve had – next to the one place in Mutters, Austria a few years ago.

We made it to the house mid-afternoon and it was especially nice that the piece for the pellet burner finally arrived and it’s up and running again – how nice it is to have heat!

We’ve arranged for the driveway to get done, although they still need a week without rain to be able to do it properly. The pool is as full as it’s ever been with all the rain – no need to get the tanker truck up this year!

We had a couple of nice lunches out at the bar in Los Cerricos – happy kitties getting bits of swordfish and pork tenderloin as usual.

We only stayed two weeks before heading back north again, experiencing only one highway delay due to a truck losing a load of oranges.

Just past Pamplona they’re twinning one of the tunnels – it is quite a busy road as it goes to Irun on the coast.

Just before the French border, in the small town that gets a lot of French visitors for the cheap fuel, tobacco and liquor, we saw the results of an accident. There was one car stopped and four people crouched on the road next to a bike-rider – they’d already gotten a neck brace on him and also on his left leg. He was conscious, which was good, but I started crying anyway – you never want to see an injured cyclist lying on the road. A mile or so beyond the border we passed an ambulance racing towards us to take the cyclist to the nearest French hospital.

The Basque folks are still defacing road signs, and there are still remains of burned tires, etc in some places left by the farmers’ protests months ago.

My little Sly guy back at the spanish house is very happy that the dog is gone again – he spends most of his days stretched out on the heated rug in front of the pellet burner now, and goes outside whenever he wants to.

There’s a new dog at the bar – an adorable little black chihuahua named Valentino Bello – I think someone gave him to them – not as a replacement for Snoopy, of course, and he does seem to be settling in quite nicely.

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

Being back in Spain is mostly great – we’ve pretty much fixed the water issue and are no longer running out. The lower pump has been replaced again and seems to be doing the trick. We’ve put up another raised-bed garden container and planted more veggies.

We all went for lunch together at the bar in Los Cericos and the bar cats had a feast. Colin fed them bits of his swordfish and they got bits of pork tenderloin from me. The small female is pregnant again – she still looks like a baby herself but no one seems to ‘fix’ their pets around here. Max, as usual, was very well behaved – he sat on one side and the three bar cats completely ignored him on the other side.

Having solved our water woes we now have a problem with the pellet burner – after getting a ‘computer’ issue fixed we now are dealing with a broken motor. Our plumber has ordered a new motor (still under warranty, thank goodness) and we’ve now been waiting several weeks for delivery. In the meantime the house is freezing – it’s actually quite warm outside but the inside is a different story. We’re constantly running several small electric heaters and our electric bill has tripled, even with our solar panels.

Colin and I had to return to France in early Feb for yet another hospital appointment and more blood tests. We took a different route north as we wanted to visit Sad Hill Cemetery – Colin has been watching a lot of behind-the-scenes videos about The Good, The Bad and The Ugly and thought seeing the cemetery would be interesting.

Finding the place was a bit of a challenge, but we finally narrowed it down and got on the right road just south of the village of Contreras. It was a chilly, cloudy day and there was a small amount of slushy snow on the ground and the gravel road. I voiced my concern about the road but we plowed along anyway. The road was narrow and about 2 ½ km along we spun out and couldn’t make it up a very small incline.

With nowhere to turn around we proceeded to back up very slowly with me hanging out the side door to watch the right-hand ditch. About halfway along we met a jeep coming up – they backed up to the only possible turning area and waited for us. After consulting with us they recommended a course of action and Colin followed their advice. The place was a very small side track with a deep ditch on either side of the access ramp – I knew it was a problem but had no time to shout a warning before the right rear tire slid off the edge and the campervan completely bottomed out with the tire in the ditch.

More consultation between the two spanish fellows and Colin, and out came a brand-new tow rope. The jeep they were in was pretty heavy-duty – they attached Colin’s tow-hook to the front of the campervan and the younger fellow took over the driving – one good tug and it was freed! After about a twelve point turn the campervan was heading the right direction down the road and we were on our way. Such super nice folks – we would have made it to the main road eventually with our very slow backing up but it turned out to be another unplanned adventure and meeting a couple of friendly and helpful locals. We could just imagine them going home for lunch and telling their family about the crazy foreigners!

Apparently we were only about 1 km away from the cemetery – now that we know where it is we’re going to return at a better time of year.

Back at the junction of the main road we parked for a few minutes to un-wind – the local storks are building a nice large nest on top of the bell tower.

We made it to the border by late afternoon and spent the night in the flat, spacious car park of one of the local shopping malls. Being right on the spanish side of the border the town is always packed with french folks coming over for cheap goods and gas. It was a nice, quiet night and we got going at a decently early time in the morning. Once again the only way you realized you had left Spain and entered France was a slight change in the road signs.

We made it back to Mansle in good time and are glad to have the wood-burner – at least we’re not freezing! Colin had a good blood test and his oncologist is happy with all of his results. We went to the BMW dealership in Angouleme but weren’t really that serious about shopping for a new one – I really liked a blue one but it was gas rather than diesel so that eliminated it for Colin. We made an appointment to get the campervan serviced, and also got the BMW done since we’re here.

We’re currently having a bit of a problem with people blocking the car in at the house – we’re on the end of a small local parking area and when we have the campervan and the car parked there is still space for six or seven other cars. However recently we’ve been blocked in more than once and been unable to get our car out. I’ve now left two typed notices (in french, of course) and hope that at least those folks won’t block us again. What if we had an emergency and couldn’t get out? I can’t believe how inconsiderate some people are – we never block roads, gates or any kind of access, even if you can tell by the length of the weeds that it doesn’t ever get used.

There’s some very sad news from the bar – their adorable little dog Snoopy has passed away. He’d been poorly for several weeks and they found out he had a brain tumour. Everyone is very sad as he was super friendly and well loved by all. RIP little guy.

Logrono for Rioja, Rouillac for Sausage

Colin had some more appointments in France so he and I headed back up in early/mid October. We stopped in Logrono as usual to pick up a few cases of Rioja.

As we were staying overnight in the large camper parking area just north of the river we took the opportunity of going across the pedestrian bridge and walking around the ‘old town’ a bit.

We stopped at a bar in one of the main squares and had a drink, then moved along to another one.

We were actually hoping to find a nice tapas bar but perhaps were on the wrong street.

In any case we had another drink, then Colin got a frozen yogurt cup from one of the many yogurt shops.

We kept seeing folks passing us carrying guitars, etc – they were buskers as that seems to be a big thing here. Also we were approached by a couple of beggars – also seems to be big here.

Logrono is an important stop along the Camino so there are lots of statues and signs along the way.

After a fairly quiet night we were on our way early in the morning, passing by Bordeaux with no problem, and arriving back in Mansle in the early evening.

After reading for the last couple of months about all the rain and crappy weather in Mansle we seem to have timed our return right as we’ve had relatively nice weather. We even got out for some bike riding which felt very good – it’s hunting season here so I did use a high-viz vest.

We spent one Sunday going to the monthly market in Rouillac – it’s a huge one and was very well attended. I actually made a purchase – some new black track pants.

On our way out of the market area we stopped and got some fresh beef sausage – excellent for lunch with new potatoes and peas.

The following weekend we returned to the same area and went to the Roman ruins ‘Les Bouchauds’…

…which has a large amphitheatre and sanctuary, and is still an active archaeological dig site.

The amphitheatre is built into a hillside and there are fabulous views from the top.

The bike ride we went on a couple of days after Nov 1 – All Saints Day in France – all of the local cemeteries had loads of new fresh flowers, mainly chrysanthemums.

As we went through the village of Monpaple on the way home that same day we heard a loud noise – it was a flock of cranes above us heading south for the winter.