Category: Landscapes/scenery

Rio Luna again, Water Issues again, Pogacar Dominates again.

Having already decided to skip Saturday’s stage that ends in Villablino we went north on the same road that goes there, but then turned east to our ‘go-to’ campground Rio Luna.

In our years and years of traveling in the campervan we’ve been to dozens of campgrounds – and Rio Luna is our very favourite.

We’ve been there several times now and will drive miles and miles out of our way just to stay there – we love it!  It is very basic with showers, etc and a bar and also has many lovely hiking trails and very few children – a big plus for us!

Also they will let the dog in the bar and put the Vuelta on the tv for us – as long as there’s not an ‘important’ soccer game on.

We got to see Michael Woods make an extreme effort and get a triumphant solo mountain stage win on Friday – excellent!!

We took a couple of nice short walks, had some excellent coffee and just relaxed for a couple of days in a lovely place.

We left our little paradise on Monday intending to take it very easy on the way back to Saliente.

Taking the motorway for some time we covered a lot more ground the first day than I thought we would.  We took a different route than on we’d done before and went through some very lovely countryside.

Getting back to the house was great in some ways, and not so great in others.  We both love the area in general, and the house in particular but once again water was an issue.

We went over a week with no water, resorting to fishing jugs of water out of the pool so we could flush toilets.  And of course the day after getting some agua from the tanker guy the co-op finally delivered also.  At least we’re topped up and are considering getting another large tank installed for a backup supply.

We managed to get a small fall crop of veggies planted in one of the raised beds – little seedlings of lettuce, kale and onion, as well as seeds of carrots, beets and chard.  It’s nice to look forward to harvesting our own food even though it’s only a few things for now.

We’ve had some fierce winds as well as some lovely sunsets.

A few days ago we took a day trip to the village of Gorafe – a place we’d seen on a video about the cycle race along ‘The Badlands’.  The route is both beautiful and brutal and passes through a desert and down to the coast.

Unfortunately at this time of year there’s not much happening – Colin asked a local lady where a restaurant was and we found it by following the voices from above (it wasn’t really marked but we could hear talking through the open windows).  They weren’t doing lunch but the owner was kind enough to make us a small plate of tapas so we didn’t starve.

We stopped at a restaurant we’d passed near the highway and did get a good lunch – as usual we were almost finished as more and more folks arrived to eat.

We also need to replace the pump that moves the water from the upper tank into the house – it’s not pleasant to be partway through showering and have the water die out.  Luckily hitting the reset button on the pump is getting it going for now but a new one the doesn’t stop spontaneously will be nice.

We enjoyed watching the cycling world championships on tv and were so happy when Remco Evenepoel won the time trial and Tadej Pogacar won the road race – and in great style too having gone on his own with just under 100 km to go.  He’s going to look very good in the rainbow jersey for the next year!

Finding the Vuelta

Leaving the lovely park in the morning we tried once again to find the climb on the next day’s route.

We knew we were on the right roads part of the time but just didn’t know where all of the turnoffs were as nothing was marked yet.  We back-tracked to Baiona and decided to go a bit west just for fun – once again we’ve found the Camino! – 150 km to Santiago.

And there’s a parking area with fantastic views of the ocean and a lovely smooth foot/bike path.

We stopped to take in the views and I laughed a bit at the fact that some folks, when presented with breath-taking vistas choose rather to look at their phones!

…

After a bit more to-and-fro we were once again heading north along the coast when we saw a large group of riders making a turn inland – today is the rest day and it was the entire Movistar team doing a recon of the final climb and then down into the finish.  The road was not marked and if we’d timed it differently we might still be circling the area!

There were quite a few nice wide places to pull over so we got a bit ahead of the team so I could hop out and take some photos.  They were very happy to see us and Enrique Mas posed for a photo with a team-mate as they rode past.

We found a spot for the night on the route and finally relaxed now that we knew we were on the right road.

In the morning the fellow from the campervan that was parked near us was busy putting Belgian flags up everywhere, and he had a lot of them!

We put a few of ours up as well, and as usual as the day progressed more and more fans showed up parking where they could along the road.

There was a bit of excitement at one point when a fan coming down the hill on his bike crashed and the ambulance had to come.  There were police with flashing lights directing the traffic and the ambulance took the guy away up the hill – it seemed like a collarbone or shoulder injury so hopefully not too serious.

The race arrived right around 5:00 with Wout van Aert in the lead (we found out later that he won the stage).

Roglic and some of the other main contenders were about five minutes behind.

As soon as the race passed…

…we started to pack up and were on our way to our next chosen race watching place for Thursday.  We made it to the city of Tui and found a Lidls to stock up on food, then continued on past Ourense looking for a stopping area along a secondary highway.  We did find a place to stop but it was one busy little road and the cars and big trucks just whizzed past all night long – not much sleep happened!

Across Northern Spain and on to the Vuelta

We finally got out for some bike rides, going several times to Aunac for coffee.

We also got a load of nice dry firewood for the winter…the pile looked huge,

but between the two of us we got it neatly stacked in about an hour and a half.

We try to take Max down near the campground at least every couple of days so he can run around off-lead – he’s got a lot of energy!

After Colin having a bone-scan and getting his most important prescription filled we left for Spain again on a Thursday afternoon, making it along secondary roads almost to Bayonne.  We stopped for the night at an Aire, then took a very convoluted route following the GPS to cross the border south of Saint-Pee-sur-Nivelle.

We ended up on a very winding road up and over into Spain, then finally hit a more main road north to Irun.  What followed was a long day of driving along a motorway, heading further and further west all the way past Gijon.  We planned to find a nice quiet town or village near the ocean but got a bit of a surprise.

The coast is lovely, but must be a magnet for the locals as the beaches were totally packed and there was absolutely no place to park, especially for a campervan.  The town of Lluanco for instance, had a beautiful beach but was so crowded we immediately gave up and drove around the point and a bit further on the motorway and then away from the coast to the town of Pravia.

We crossed the river and found a very nice parking area off the main road and stopped for a well deserved quiet night.

The next day was a much shorter drive westward along the north coast to Foz, stopping at Ribadeo for fuel and groceries.

We’ve been to the campground just west of Foz a few times now and they have decent wi-if and nice hot showers, although no laundry.

I did get to see the last part of the day’s Vuelta on the tv in the bar – they’re still somewhat south but are coming north in a few days.

It wasn’t too terribly far the next morning to our destination of Baiona (where Tuesday’s Vuelta stage ends) and we arrived early afternoon.

Once again we found it very crowded and nowhere to park.

We hadn’t intended to stay the night anyway so ended up trying to back-track along the route to what will be the last climb of the stage.

Well…talk about an excersize in frustration!  The GPS was useless and because my mobile wi-fi device was out of data we basically drove around and around the general area and finally gave up and stopped for lunch at one of the few places that actually had room for a campervan to park.  We watched the day’s Vuelta stage on their tv until we noticed that they were closing up and we had to leave without seeing the end.

After trying once again to find the route the GPS led us up a perilously narrow road that we had to stop and back down very very slowly.  I got out and directed Colin as he had to keep on a very precise line to avoid falling off the pavement on either side.  Luckily we made it safely and headed back to a large park we’d seen along the way and settled in for the night.

The area has large amounts of open land upon which both cows and horses roam freely so drivers must be aware – several of the horses came around in the evening to browse near the campervan.

Lazy Days in Sunny Spain

The trip back to Spain in late June was pretty good and we made it in two days as usual.

We stopped not far from the border before crossing over to buy some sheep cheese from a local producer, and it was delicious.

Getting back to good weather was great, and having the sun shine every day was wonderful.  We had a few high winds, and as usual have been dealing with water issues.

We ended up getting the tanker truck up to top up the pool, and also the lower tank as getting water from the co-op is kind of hit-and-miss at times.

We thought we were going to lose a bunch of the new oleanders but we got the water delivery just in time.

Also, the pump from the lower tank to the upper died so we had to get a new one – the new one was defective so had to be exchanged for another one, and that one only lasted a week or two.  Luckily the store we got it from is very kind and took the pump back and we got a different kind from another store.

Then the pool pump wasn’t working, but fortunately it wasn’t the pump that died, just a ‘condenser’ that was cheap and easy to replace.

Colin and I both had a health issue – he had a UTI and spent most of one day at the hospital to get a test, then wait for the results and get a prescription for antibiotics.  My illness was similar to what happened in the spring and I wondered if it was covid, or perhaps a sodium deficiency – many of the symptoms are surprisingly similar.  In any case I was tired and had no energy for several days but luckily it passed and I seem fine.

Max seems to like it at the house as he can easily jump over the wall and go exploring.  He has three favourite places to go – up the steep hill to the east of the house, up the track past the neighbour’s house (he gets their dogs barking so we usually know if he’s over there) or else down on the rambla.  

We don’t Iike it when he goes on the rambla as he has to cross the road to get there but he almost always comes running if he hears me whistle.

The Tour de France was better than usual, and Tadej Pogacar won in very convincing fashion, with Remco Evenepoel coming third overall.  Then the Olympic time trial and road race were both won by Remco – it was great to watch!

Saying goodbye to my fur-baby we once more had to return to France for Colin’s prescription.

It was quite funny going through the tunnel on this route – leaving sunny Spain and several km later entering foggy France.

Having enjoyed the sheep cheese so much we got some more on the way back, this time a more mature/robust one.

We took a slightly different route than when we came down, following smaller roads rather than taking the peage so we did see some new sights along the way, including some interesting roundabout displays…

…as well as some roadside statues…

Arriving back in Mansle we were glad to find that the almost constant rain we experienced in June had finally given way to nicer weather.

Cabin Fever, Then Green Light!

The town’s ‘beautification’ project is starting to show – some of the bushes are blooming and look just lovely.

The river has risen and flooded again as the rain just keeps coming and going.  The date of opening for the campground keeps changing – usually it is May 15 but with all the rain it’s been delayed – the most recent news is July 1…I guess we’ll see.

As we were both starting to get cabin fever we took a little trip to the coast for a couple of days, heading to the Ile D’Oleron (just south of Rochefort), which is accessible via a bridge.

We found a lovely place to camp that was about 100 meters from the ocean – almost all of the other campervans had dogs, and most of them also had bikes.

The island has many great walking and cycling trails.

At the north end of the island is the lighthouse.

….

We went to the town of Boyardville for lunch and you could not get fresher seafood – I bet the mussels were harvested that morning.

…

We spent another quiet night at the aire, then left for home around noon, taking the coastal road almost all the way to the bridge.

Colin had two very good appointments – one with his cardiologist and the other with his oncologist.  So now we finally have the green light to get out of town again!

Back to France and Not Getting to Italy

We had to return to France again so Colin could refill his most important prescription – they’ll only give him four weeks at a time because of the cost.

The trip back was pretty good and we took basically the same route as we did the last time at least until we got past Pau.

We stopped before the border to have a bite to eat at a nice pullout in the Valley of Aragon – a very pretty area.

…

Crossing the border we encountered evidence of the recent protests such as the upside-down town signs, although without the tractor blockages.

The flooding at the campground and hippodrome has mostly gone down…

…and the irises in our terrace boxes are flourishing.

We got a new pressure washer and I finally had a go at the terrace – what a difference!

…

I didn’t get Colin a cake for his birthday so I (quite reluctantly) made him one a couple of days later.  My first-ever cake was a success!

A lovely carrot cake with cream cheese icing – a bit too sweet for my taste but if I ever make another one I’ll use a lot less sugar.

We’ve had water coming into the spare bedroom with all of the rain – looks like we need some work done on the roof.  We have poly and towels over the bed and on the floor to try to mop it up.

We’ve been working on our ‘to-do’ list and the most recent accomplishment was hoisting Colin’s vintage 1965 Viking ‘Severn Valley’ that he raced on successfully in ‘65 and ‘66.  It’s now hanging proudly above the lounge.

And since we can’t make it to Italy as planned we’re watching the Giro on TV.

Stray Cats, Hunting Dog, and New Kitchen!

We’ve had a few nice bike rides…

…always with a good cup of coffee at the halfway point.

There was a beautiful full moon that set just as the sun was rising…

We made another trip to Vera for a couple more plants…

I always drive with a bag of cat food in the car to feed the strays in Las Pocicas – one time I stopped there were at least 13 of the poor little things.

I joined another local facebook group that has some members that also like cats – apparently one of the local vets gives a discount for neutering feral animals but there are also a lot of rules that make it somewhat complicated.  I’d like to help somehow, though.

We took a nice day trip down to the coast to the village of La Isleta Del Moro which was very lovely.

We had an excellent coffee at one place then walked around and picked a nice restaurant for lunch.  

There are lots of date palms in the area, and now that I know what they look like compared to all of the other palms I see them everywhere.

…

There’s a hunting dog across the way that we always hear barking and recently she’s begun to come over to visit us.  They keep her very hungry so we’ve been feeding her – she loves the food but loves the attention at least as much.  Colin has named her Jayne, but I call her Lady J.  She’s very affectionate and just adorable.

Our kitchen renovation was started!!  Neil arrived and the transformation was made from:

..to:

…to:

I love it so much!  Colin had to return to France for some appointments so he hasn’t seen the end result yet other than what I’ve been able to show him via facetime.

In addition Neil solved a major electric problem that happened the morning he was planning to leave – it took two days to solve and if it wasn’t for him I would have been totally hooped.  The house is fairly old and the electrics are crap, to put it nicely.  Luckily Neil’s an expert and after tracking things down like a detective all seems ok now.

The last few days we’ve had some extremely fierce winds – one of the jacarandas has been torn apart as has one of the potted yuccas.  Neither one seems to be dead as there’s some growth at the bottom of each so hopefully we won’t completely lose either – we’ll see.

Jumbo Rules

After a very long night we got up to a cloudy and partly rainy day.  Two cars joined us in our pull-out spot.  I took a walk down to the bottom of the hill and the parking area there was completely full.

I believe they are mostly hikers rather than cycling fans as this seems to be an area that’s part of a system with many walking trails.

We spent a quiet morning waiting for the race to arrive for the first pass.

A couple of motorcycles joined our group at the side of the road, and the race arrived for the first time just after lunch around 2:14.

The breakaway was fairly large, with Remco tucked in the middle.  

The peloton arrived about 5 minutes later with Jumbo at the front.

More fans arrived as we waited for the second pass.

We once again saw our ‘hairy friend’ (as we call him) on his photo-moto just before the breakaway arrived for the second time.

We’ve met him several times now over the last years, starting at the Tour of Burgos in 2018.  We’ve seen him at the world championship in Harrogate, and several other times since, sometimes having brief conversations or at least a quick wave as he goes by.

After the breakaway and the peloton had gone by for the second time we took down the flags and got on our way.  We weren’t slowed down much by the ‘after race’ traffic and made it to a nice aire in the town of Valdepeñas for the night.  Coincidentally it was the same town that we stopped at on the way north to get some groceries.

An early start the next morning allowed us to get home in the early afternoon in time for lunch – it’s great to be home!

Oh – Jumbo Visma swept the podium in the end, with Sepp Kuss taking the top spot (well deserved) and his teammates Jonas Vingegaard and Primoz Roglic joining him.  Jumbo have won all three grand tours this year – a major feat.

On the Bear Trail Again!

Leaving the Angliru as soon as it got light the morning following the last stage we went the short drive north to Oviedo to do some grocery shopping.

After stocking up we headed to the spot we’d chosen for this day’s stage – a place they pass thru twice.  As we neared the road Colin said ‘this looks familiar’ – it was the ‘bear trail’ road!  We’d been on it a few times in past years so knew of more than one place that might be great to stop in.

However the best place was already taken over by the ‘VIP’ tents so we had to back-track a bit to another spot that was actually perfect.  The race splits off the main road on the first pass and goes up a small mountain before circling around and going past us again on the road back north.

For the first pass I walked a very short way up the ‘mountain’ road – it was quite steep and the sun was actually getting very hot…

…but that didn’t deter the fans, both young…

…and old.

The breakaway arrived just before four…

…with Remco once again in the lead…

…about ten minutes ahead of the peloton, with Jumbo all together at the front.

As usual the helicopters let us know as the race approached again.

They arrived for the second time at 5:14, this time Remco alone in the lead…

…with the rest of the breakaway in pieces behind him.

Rather than stay the night after the race was done we drove for a couple of hours, stopping at an aire in the village of La Magdalena a bit south of the Luna reservoir – it was very quiet and peaceful.

Getting started the next morning at a decent time we continued south, skirting Leon and Benavente where the road veers a bit to the southeast and onwards almost to Madrid.  We’d already decided to skip Friday’s stage and headed instead to the route of Saturday’s stage that looked more interesting.

There are at least three climbs on the stage that they go up twice so we just went along the route and picked a nice spot at the side of the road not far from the bottom between two climbs.

We are in a rare place that we just can’t get the internet in – I realize how much I use it and have resorted to reading my book instead.

There are a couple of cattle ranches in the valley below with a lovely river running through.  In the evening there was a spectacular lightening show with sheets lighting up the sky one after another, followed of course by the thunder.  Then the rain arrived – just torrential but thankfully not all night long.

From Rio Luna to The Angliru

The day after the TT we headed north towards one of our favourite campgrounds to have several days of rest.  Along the way we stopped for Henry to have a break and noticed a memorial stone.

It was from the Spanish Civil War and named several villagers who had lost their lives – very simple but quite touching.

We took our time getting to Rio Luna, taking the ‘scenic route’ rather than the motorway.  The reservoir was the lowest we’ve seen it.

It was so nice to be back at a familiar place – we had chips and eggs for lunch at the campground bar before taking nice hot showers.  The next few days rained off and on most of the time – we did manage to get some laundry done and dried during one of the sunny spells.

Mostly we staying inside because of the rain, going up to the bar for coffee each morning and again later in the day to watch the Vuelta on tv.

One of the campground cats had kittens a couple of months ago – they’re very cute but a bit skittish.  The owner (whose name, sadly, I can’t remember) asked if I wanted one – I said I’d take two if I could but I don’t think Henry would like that!

One day we took the short drive to San Emiliano for coffee – on the way back to the ‘main’ road we had to stop for a small herd of cows that were walking up the road towards us on their way from one field to another.

We then drove further west to the town of Villablino and continued south a bit along a small lake.  Not finding a decent cafe or restaurant we stopped at a nice pull-out and had lunch in the campervan.

After our nice interlude at Rio Luna we headed to our next race watching place – partway up the Angliru.

We weren’t sure how far up we would get as the road does get closed to traffic.  I think we made it about halfway when we encountered several police cars that were turning people back.  There were some campervans a little further ahead but apparently no more space beyond that so we turned back.

We ended up at a nice pullout that was on very solid ground – with all the rain lately many of the spots that look good are very soggy.  We saw a few campervans in spots that we wondered if they were going to get out of but our place was ok.

On race morning fans started cycling up before it was even light out and during the day literally thousands of cyclists and walkers passed us on their way to the top.

I wouldn’t have wanted to walk up – we’re a good nine or ten km from the top so it’s definitely a bit of a hike.

I found a great place to watch and photograph from – you can see down the hill a ways and the valley opens up for a beautiful view.

Just down from us some folks have painted the Quickstep rider’s names on the pavement and they’ve covered up the ‘Angliru’ sign with ‘in Remco we Trust’.

Unfortunately Remco lost a ton of time on the Tourmalet a few days ago so is out of GC contention but he still had something to prove – he was the first racer to pass us…

…although the peloton wasn’t far behind.

The descent of the fans after the race was the largest I’ve ever seen – it took almost two hours for all of the cyclists, walkers, cars and motos to get past us on their way down.  They kind of came in waves – a bunch of cyclists, then a bunch of walkers, then a lot of motos and some buses and campervans – then it started again.  We stayed put rather than trying to fight the traffic and get nowhere fast.