The town’s ‘beautification’ project is starting to show – some of the bushes are blooming and look just lovely.
The river has risen and flooded again as the rain just keeps coming and going. The date of opening for the campground keeps changing – usually it is May 15 but with all the rain it’s been delayed – the most recent news is July 1…I guess we’ll see.
As we were both starting to get cabin fever we took a little trip to the coast for a couple of days, heading to the Ile D’Oleron (just south of Rochefort), which is accessible via a bridge.
We found a lovely place to camp that was about 100 meters from the ocean – almost all of the other campervans had dogs, and most of them also had bikes.
The island has many great walking and cycling trails.
At the north end of the island is the lighthouse.
….
We went to the town of Boyardville for lunch and you could not get fresher seafood – I bet the mussels were harvested that morning.
…
We spent another quiet night at the aire, then left for home around noon, taking the coastal road almost all the way to the bridge.
Colin had two very good appointments – one with his cardiologist and the other with his oncologist. So now we finally have the green light to get out of town again!
We had to return to France again so Colin could refill his most important prescription – they’ll only give him four weeks at a time because of the cost.
The trip back was pretty good and we took basically the same route as we did the last time at least until we got past Pau.
We stopped before the border to have a bite to eat at a nice pullout in the Valley of Aragon – a very pretty area.
…
Crossing the border we encountered evidence of the recent protests such as the upside-down town signs, although without the tractor blockages.
The flooding at the campground and hippodrome has mostly gone down…
…and the irises in our terrace boxes are flourishing.
We got a new pressure washer and I finally had a go at the terrace – what a difference!
…
I didn’t get Colin a cake for his birthday so I (quite reluctantly) made him one a couple of days later. My first-ever cake was a success!
A lovely carrot cake with cream cheese icing – a bit too sweet for my taste but if I ever make another one I’ll use a lot less sugar.
We’ve had water coming into the spare bedroom with all of the rain – looks like we need some work done on the roof. We have poly and towels over the bed and on the floor to try to mop it up.
We’ve been working on our ‘to-do’ list and the most recent accomplishment was hoisting Colin’s vintage 1965 Viking ‘Severn Valley’ that he raced on successfully in ‘65 and ‘66. It’s now hanging proudly above the lounge.
And since we can’t make it to Italy as planned we’re watching the Giro on TV.
…always with a good cup of coffee at the halfway point.
There was a beautiful full moon that set just as the sun was rising…
We made another trip to Vera for a couple more plants…
I always drive with a bag of cat food in the car to feed the strays in Las Pocicas – one time I stopped there were at least 13 of the poor little things.
I joined another local facebook group that has some members that also like cats – apparently one of the local vets gives a discount for neutering feral animals but there are also a lot of rules that make it somewhat complicated. I’d like to help somehow, though.
We took a nice day trip down to the coast to the village of La Isleta Del Moro which was very lovely.
We had an excellent coffee at one place then walked around and picked a nice restaurant for lunch.
There are lots of date palms in the area, and now that I know what they look like compared to all of the other palms I see them everywhere.
…
There’s a hunting dog across the way that we always hear barking and recently she’s begun to come over to visit us. They keep her very hungry so we’ve been feeding her – she loves the food but loves the attention at least as much. Colin has named her Jayne, but I call her Lady J. She’s very affectionate and just adorable.
Our kitchen renovation was started!! Neil arrived and the transformation was made from:
..to:
…to:
I love it so much! Colin had to return to France for some appointments so he hasn’t seen the end result yet other than what I’ve been able to show him via facetime.
In addition Neil solved a major electric problem that happened the morning he was planning to leave – it took two days to solve and if it wasn’t for him I would have been totally hooped. The house is fairly old and the electrics are crap, to put it nicely. Luckily Neil’s an expert and after tracking things down like a detective all seems ok now.
The last few days we’ve had some extremely fierce winds – one of the jacarandas has been torn apart as has one of the potted yuccas. Neither one seems to be dead as there’s some growth at the bottom of each so hopefully we won’t completely lose either – we’ll see.
After a very long night we got up to a cloudy and partly rainy day. Two cars joined us in our pull-out spot. I took a walk down to the bottom of the hill and the parking area there was completely full.
I believe they are mostly hikers rather than cycling fans as this seems to be an area that’s part of a system with many walking trails.
We spent a quiet morning waiting for the race to arrive for the first pass.
A couple of motorcycles joined our group at the side of the road, and the race arrived for the first time just after lunch around 2:14.
The breakaway was fairly large, with Remco tucked in the middle.
The peloton arrived about 5 minutes later with Jumbo at the front.
More fans arrived as we waited for the second pass.
We once again saw our ‘hairy friend’ (as we call him) on his photo-moto just before the breakaway arrived for the second time.
We’ve met him several times now over the last years, starting at the Tour of Burgos in 2018. We’ve seen him at the world championship in Harrogate, and several other times since, sometimes having brief conversations or at least a quick wave as he goes by.
After the breakaway and the peloton had gone by for the second time we took down the flags and got on our way. We weren’t slowed down much by the ‘after race’ traffic and made it to a nice aire in the town of Valdepeñas for the night. Coincidentally it was the same town that we stopped at on the way north to get some groceries.
An early start the next morning allowed us to get home in the early afternoon in time for lunch – it’s great to be home!
Oh – Jumbo Visma swept the podium in the end, with Sepp Kuss taking the top spot (well deserved) and his teammates Jonas Vingegaard and Primoz Roglic joining him. Jumbo have won all three grand tours this year – a major feat.
Leaving the Angliru as soon as it got light the morning following the last stage we went the short drive north to Oviedo to do some grocery shopping.
After stocking up we headed to the spot we’d chosen for this day’s stage – a place they pass thru twice. As we neared the road Colin said ‘this looks familiar’ – it was the ‘bear trail’ road! We’d been on it a few times in past years so knew of more than one place that might be great to stop in.
However the best place was already taken over by the ‘VIP’ tents so we had to back-track a bit to another spot that was actually perfect. The race splits off the main road on the first pass and goes up a small mountain before circling around and going past us again on the road back north.
For the first pass I walked a very short way up the ‘mountain’ road – it was quite steep and the sun was actually getting very hot…
…but that didn’t deter the fans, both young…
…and old.
The breakaway arrived just before four…
…with Remco once again in the lead…
…about ten minutes ahead of the peloton, with Jumbo all together at the front.
As usual the helicopters let us know as the race approached again.
They arrived for the second time at 5:14, this time Remco alone in the lead…
…with the rest of the breakaway in pieces behind him.
Rather than stay the night after the race was done we drove for a couple of hours, stopping at an aire in the village of La Magdalena a bit south of the Luna reservoir – it was very quiet and peaceful.
Getting started the next morning at a decent time we continued south, skirting Leon and Benavente where the road veers a bit to the southeast and onwards almost to Madrid. We’d already decided to skip Friday’s stage and headed instead to the route of Saturday’s stage that looked more interesting.
There are at least three climbs on the stage that they go up twice so we just went along the route and picked a nice spot at the side of the road not far from the bottom between two climbs.
We are in a rare place that we just can’t get the internet in – I realize how much I use it and have resorted to reading my book instead.
There are a couple of cattle ranches in the valley below with a lovely river running through. In the evening there was a spectacular lightening show with sheets lighting up the sky one after another, followed of course by the thunder. Then the rain arrived – just torrential but thankfully not all night long.
The day after the TT we headed north towards one of our favourite campgrounds to have several days of rest. Along the way we stopped for Henry to have a break and noticed a memorial stone.
It was from the Spanish Civil War and named several villagers who had lost their lives – very simple but quite touching.
We took our time getting to Rio Luna, taking the ‘scenic route’ rather than the motorway. The reservoir was the lowest we’ve seen it.
It was so nice to be back at a familiar place – we had chips and eggs for lunch at the campground bar before taking nice hot showers. The next few days rained off and on most of the time – we did manage to get some laundry done and dried during one of the sunny spells.
Mostly we staying inside because of the rain, going up to the bar for coffee each morning and again later in the day to watch the Vuelta on tv.
One of the campground cats had kittens a couple of months ago – they’re very cute but a bit skittish. The owner (whose name, sadly, I can’t remember) asked if I wanted one – I said I’d take two if I could but I don’t think Henry would like that!
One day we took the short drive to San Emiliano for coffee – on the way back to the ‘main’ road we had to stop for a small herd of cows that were walking up the road towards us on their way from one field to another.
We then drove further west to the town of Villablino and continued south a bit along a small lake. Not finding a decent cafe or restaurant we stopped at a nice pull-out and had lunch in the campervan.
After our nice interlude at Rio Luna we headed to our next race watching place – partway up the Angliru.
We weren’t sure how far up we would get as the road does get closed to traffic. I think we made it about halfway when we encountered several police cars that were turning people back. There were some campervans a little further ahead but apparently no more space beyond that so we turned back.
We ended up at a nice pullout that was on very solid ground – with all the rain lately many of the spots that look good are very soggy. We saw a few campervans in spots that we wondered if they were going to get out of but our place was ok.
On race morning fans started cycling up before it was even light out and during the day literally thousands of cyclists and walkers passed us on their way to the top.
I wouldn’t have wanted to walk up – we’re a good nine or ten km from the top so it’s definitely a bit of a hike.
I found a great place to watch and photograph from – you can see down the hill a ways and the valley opens up for a beautiful view.
Just down from us some folks have painted the Quickstep rider’s names on the pavement and they’ve covered up the ‘Angliru’ sign with ‘in Remco we Trust’.
Unfortunately Remco lost a ton of time on the Tourmalet a few days ago so is out of GC contention but he still had something to prove – he was the first racer to pass us…
…although the peloton wasn’t far behind.
The descent of the fans after the race was the largest I’ve ever seen – it took almost two hours for all of the cyclists, walkers, cars and motos to get past us on their way down. They kind of came in waves – a bunch of cyclists, then a bunch of walkers, then a lot of motos and some buses and campervans – then it started again. We stayed put rather than trying to fight the traffic and get nowhere fast.
After corresponding with his oncologist back in France who told Colin that his most recent blood test wasn’t that bad we decided to go ahead on our planned road trip up north to see some of the Vuelta.
On the first day we made it a fair distance – past Toledo and on to the shores of a reservoir/lake. We were looking for a park-4-night place but ended up just pulling over on a very wide spot with a lovely view.
The second day’s travel was much shorter as we stopped in the hilltop village of Portillo – you could actually see Valladolid in the distance to the north.
We stayed at the park-4-night for two very rainy, stormy nights, emerging from the campervan during one break in the rain to walk to a local restaurant for lunch.
Along the way we noticed many gray gates that we could see weren’t made to keep people out, and realized after awhile that they were for the bulls.
Before leaving on the second morning I took a walk to a nearby viewpoint – there were wonderful views in all directions.
The trip to Valladolid was quick and easy – we knew exactly where we wanted to go and for once the GPS took us right there. It’s just to the south of the city in a large nature park with plenty of excellent places to spend a couple of nights, and most importantly it’s right on the Time Trial route for Tuesday’s Vuelta stage.
On the Sunday afternoon there was a huge group of motorcycles that rode past, accompanied by police – not sure what that was about but it was kind of impressive.
With Monday being the first rest day of the Vuelta we got to see many of the riders doing a re-con of the course. We were joined at our chosen spot by a couple of campervans from Belgium, one of whom had a Giro wolf and a Vuelta bull in his front window – also a moose from a race in Norway.
In addition on race day they put out a large teddy bear in Jumbo kit that they called ‘Wout van Aert’ – since he’s not riding in the Vuelta I guess he’s just hanging out enjoying the sun and watching.
As usual on race day more and more folks arrived to watch – we’re just before the 8 km to go marker and at the top of a very small hill.
Throughout the morning most of the racers did a lap or two of the course…
…as current world TT champion Remco was in the rainbow jersey.
I got a decent photo of Ganna approaching us with the photo-moto right behind him – he ended up winning the stage. If only he was on a different team I would be a huge cheerleader for him.
The crowds at our place got so big we even got our own police guards.
Remco flew by…
…and shortly after the current leader Sepp Kuss, who managed to keep his overall lead. Remco did make up a bit of time on his main GC rivals so it was a good day overall.
As per usual within a very short time almost everyone had left the site…
We decided to take an overnight trip to the coast, heading first to the town of Carboneras. It seemed very pretty, and not too touristy but there was nowhere to park so we just kept driving north along the coast.
We stopped for lunch at the village of Sopalmo that was a bit away from the sea but seemed quite nice. It had lots of pretty white houses with lovely blue flower pots everywhere.
Henry had his first ride in his pram – he seemed to like it alright and we definitely made better time from where we parked to the bar/restaurant we went to for lunch.
We both ordered well-done hamburgers and ended up with almost raw meat. The potatoes were excellent, and the rest of what was in the burgers was tasty but Henry got most of the meat.
After lunch we drove a bit further north and stopped at a really nice looking beach with ample parking as well as a fort. This spot was used as a port hundreds of years ago as the water gets deep very quickly.
There was a placque giving the history of the place and part of it was in english – we just weren’t sure why it would have been manned by four people, three of whom were bullfighters.
You could see Mojacar in the distance to the north and we knew it would be very crowded, but there were very few folks at this beach.
We had intended to stay for the night but it was beastly hot, so almost at the same time we asked each other ‘should we just go home’? And so we did.
We got back to going for bike rides every second morning, one day making it to Taberno for coffee. On another day we rode down to the cafe at Llanos de Los Alleros.
After our coffee we explored the village a little bit – we’ve passed by it many times as it’s right on the way to Albox but we’ve never left the main road before to see the actual village. It was quite nice, with a lovely church and another cafe.
We had some company for lunch last week – we made good use of the sunroom, and their kids enjoyed the pool.
We are once again having water issues – this time we know the water is flowing in the channel but we can’t get hold of anyone to ask for it. That’s one of the more frustrating things about living here – we know we can call the tanker guy but we do belong to a ‘co-op’ that currently isn’t responding. We’ve now contacted the local facebook group to ask for advice – hopefully someone will have a different phone number or something so we can get the water we need.
We’ve discovered a couple more wasp nests and are pleased with the dozens of dead wasps, although there are obviously more nests to find as there are still a few that dip into the pool for water in the evening when we swim.
The birds are emptying the feeder almost as quickly as we fill it – we’ve also made a water bath for them and they seem to like it.
We found out on the local facebook group page today that the two dogs we feed in Las Pocicas have been taken into someone’s care. Last year’s puppy (who is named Chica) has been taken to the vet’s and has been ‘fixed’ and is doing very well. Mama Luna and her six new puppies are all in a couple of homes now and will be well cared for – we were so happy to read that as we look for them every time we pass through. We think they were rescued by a couple of brits we spoke with one day, along with help from a ‘sweet little spanish woman’.
Colin got back from France as scheduled, and all of his tests were ok. While there he helped the cycling club with their annual youth races in Angeau – the kids are so cute.
And the winning team was – the local organizing club Guidon Manslois (Colin’s club)!
I’m glad for many reasons that Colin is back but a big one is that I really don’t like being alone in the house at night. It’s frequently windy and things blow around and make noise – kind of freaked me out a couple of times.
The garden is coming along nicely – the weeds are tenacious, but so are the gardeners!
The Tour de France has started – the first three stages were in northern Spain and now they’re working their way north, then east. We’re both very sad that Mark Cavendish has crashed out as we were sure he would break the stage-win record in this, his last Tour. I was somewhat cheered up yesterday, however, when Michael Woods won on the Puy de Dome.
We’re trying to find a used pram or stroller for Henry – he can’t walk as fast or as far as he used to and Colin often ends up having to pick him up. In search of one we drove south yesterday to see if we could find one at a large second-hand furniture place but she didn’t have anything appropriate. She did have a beautiful german shepherd guard dog and a black cat with orange eyes.
We’ve put up a fly screen on the french doors so we can now have them open in the early part of the day – nice breezes come through. But all windows and shutters get closed by noon or so to keep the heat out. Our swims are later now also – usually around 7:30 or 8:00 in the evening because of the heat, and also the angle of the sun.
My arm rash has come back and I’m treating it with apricot kernel oil so I don’t end up looking like a leper. As long as I stay out of the direct sun it subsides and isn’t itchy so mostly I’m staying inside during the day and doing any of the outside stuff in early morning or late evening.
The herb garden is doing very well, especially the basil. I’ve made pesto twice now (for pizza) and it’s awesome to be able to go out and pick it, then crush it. I don’t have any pine nuts so have been using almonds – but what else would I use in almond-growing heaven?
We’ll be having fresh cherry tomatoes soon as one of the plants has gone crazy and already has fruit on it – small and green now but in a week or two…
Most mornings I do a bit of tai chi and chi gong on either the front terrace or the side terrace – it’s so peaceful and quiet and I get to see the sun come up over the hill to the east.
The birds have finally discovered the bird feeder and we now have to fill it every couple of days.
We had a nice lunch out at the bar in Los Cerricos – once again the cats were hiding from the heat.
The Ikea delivery arrived! We met the truck down at the restaurant/gas station and they followed us up to the house – now the office is full of the new kitchen in boxes.
Henry tried to walk on the pool cover again – luckily I spotted him right away. It was ok when he got out on the winter cover as it was tied to the sides, but the summer cover just floats and even a smallish dog like Henry caused it to start sinking. Fortunately he was near the shallow end so I just went down the stairs and fished him out – wet shorts was a small price to pay.
I finally went for a bike ride – not long but getting hot by the time I got home – I’ll have to leave earlier next time.
We’ve taken a couple more trips – the first was back to Ikea in Murcia to meet with the ‘kitchen planner’. As we had done a lot of measuring and looking at their choices online we were very prepared and the meeting went well. It is going to be beautiful and I’m very excited.
The second trip was to the coast and the peninsula of Cabo de Gato which we’d read about and seen on a couple of cycling videos that went through the area. Once we passed Vera most of the drive was past mile after mile of tattered plastic greenhouses so we were quite disappointed – it looked like a moonscape.
But the town of Cabo de Gato wasn’t bad – we found a nice bar that had excellent tapas and wine, and then drove a short way to a lovely beach.
There’s also a bird sanctuary in the salt marshes.
We’ve had more work completed – Steve (our carpenter) has done a bunch more stuff, including installing a door between the guest bedroom and it’s bathroom. Carlos has added three more outdoor taps as well as fixed the outdoor shower near the pool, and our wonderful gardener and her husband have planted the jacarandas, oleanders and cedars.
They also gave some advice on the cleaning of the pool – I need ‘shock’ and ‘floculant’ and then some vacuuming – hope to be able to use it soon as the weather is finally turning hot and sunny.
Our solar panels have been installed! Our roof is now covered with them – we don’t have batteries to store the energy but are going to be feeding it to the grid when we have excess – I’m so happy!
The summer pool cover has been fitted and installed – it will help a lot to reduce the evaporation rate, and also keep it warmer.
I finally had my first swim of the year! Our ducky thermometer says the water is 30 degrees – it was very refreshing and just what was needed on a hot, muggy day.
For the second time I had a couple of unexpected visitors – two larks (I think that’s what they were) were suddenly in the lounge flying about. They got in through the front door which we like to leave open for the breeze. The first time they found their own way out, and today I managed to get the french doors open to release them.
I didn’t have my camera handy but did manage to get a quick photo with my ipad – as usual the quality is a bit disappointing to me.
We now have a beautiful herb garden…
…the potted tomatoes are doing great…
…the oleanders are finally flowering…
…and while other plants and flowers are showing off their beauty…
…the agave is still working on it’s one-and-only blossoming before it dies…
Water is still sometimes an issue – the ‘canal’ that belongs to the co-op that we’re a part of is being repaired at the moment and the tanker truck can’t deliver to us until next week. I’m using as little as possible but have stocked-up on large jugs of water from the store – enough to keep the garden and new trees alive, and make a cup or two of tea in the mornings. The quantity of water available at this time isn’t an issue here – it’s just the delivery of it that is a challenge!
Sally McKenzie's European Adventures 