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Return to Rio Luna, and Vuelta up San Lorenzo

We left the house on a Thursday morning and made it as far north as the lake just past El Tiemblo, where we’d stopped a couple of years ago. I took a lovely photo of the lake near sunset, and when looking back at the last time we were here I seem to have taken an almost identical photo – I guess when I like something I like it!

After a nice quiet night we got going north again fairly early, avoiding toll-roads and arriving at our favourite campground Rio Luna.

We spent a few days just chilling out, going for a couple of nice walks, and watching the Vuelta on the tv in the campground’s bar – while sipping some nice Rioja.

On our second day here I had a fight with a folding lawn chair…

…I lost.

Two days before the stage we came to see we took a little re-con drive to the general area, and decided to go to the second-to-last climb rather than the last one.

There are a couple of places along the way where the fires had swept down one mountain, across the road and up the other side.

Luckily there aren’t any bad ones around the area at the moment, although it was a horrible summer in some places.

Back at the campground one of the local ranchers was moving his herd of sheep, taking some time for them to graze in the field just outside the campground’s fence before moving them along.

We got up quite early the next morning to head to the mountain we’d chosen for Saturday’s race, leaving just as it was getting light.

It was still misty when we got to the top of the San Lorenzo, and we found a wonderful wide spot that only had two other campervans parked.

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We had a couple of nice walks – there are lots of horses and cows on the hills and they’re not all fenced in.

By evening there were many more campervans both behind and in front of us, and during the next morning we couldn’t believe how many more managed to squish in.

An enterprising fellow brought an ice-cream truck up – he also had chips and beer – looked like he was doing a good business.

Our ‘Belgian friends’ arrived in their huge bus, this time with Tudor on it rather than Quickstep. They stopped and said a quick hello to me (I was out walking Max) before heading back down the climb to park. Later in the day they walked up and we had a really nice chat – we first met them several years ago and have seen them regularly at many different races in several different countries. They are Alaphilippe supporters thus the sponsor name change on their bus. It was really nice to see them again.

At one point one of the black horses and her little foal started walking down the road and a car was coming up from below us – I made the ‘slow down’ motion to him. When he stopped I realized he was the horses’ owner and he got them back up the track where they would be safe.

The Palestinian protesters had been busy – there were slogans painted on the road, and stickers on all of the signs denouncing Israel, etc. Colin and I, and also one of our neighbouring campervaners scratched off as many as we could. Then later Colin noticed that many of the signposts up and down the road had cardboard painted with Palestinian flags tied to them. I walked down about ½ km and tore them all off the posts – almost every single person parked along the road either gave me the ‘thumbs up’, said ‘good job’ or ‘thank you’!

There was one woman sitting on the road almost across from our campervan who actually said ‘don’t you support other people’s right to their opinion?’ and I countered with ‘I do, but this is a cycling race, not a political forum’. Our neighbour also told her to shut up.

We did get, of course, a marker for ‘top of the climb’, along with a bit of barrier – also several well-armed policemen. I had a nice chat with one of them and they’re not going to tolerate any guff from any protestors.

There have been a couple of issues with protestors intefering with racers, and there’s talk of changing the final day into Madrid. Not to mention that the Israel Premium Tech team is under pressure to withdraw – they’ve already removed ‘Israel’ from their jerseys and I’m sure some of the riders are more than a little anxious. Again – it’s a sporting event!

As usual we knew when the riders were getting close because of the helicopters and motos, then we could see them snaking up the hairpins below us.

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It took a while for everyone to pass, then we walked up to where a group of folks were gathered outside a campervan. The fellow had swivelled his tv out the door and we all got to watch the final climb up past Saliencia with Soler – a spanish rider – triumphant at the finish. A really, really good and fun couple of days on the side of a mountain.

LEST WE FORGET!!!!

Since being back in Mansle we’ve gotten into a nice, if somewhat lazy routine. I’m usually up pretty early, then after breakfast and a cup of tea we take Max down to the campground for a run about (him, not us!). Then we go to one of the bars for a coffee/drink.

We’ve been out for some very nice lunches – my new favourite place is in Villognon. I had the duck confit the first time and it was just delicious – we’ve been back a couple of times since. Then for Colin’s birthday lunch we went to the Cheval Blanc in Luxe, and it was so good! I think my favourite course was the cheese trolley but by then I was so full I could only sample a few of the twenty or more offerings.

We’ve had to leave Max behind a couple of times, and he wasn’t happy about it – witness the destruction left in his attempt to get into the garbage can to ‘help himself’.

On Easter Sunday we went to the bar for a drink and passed an old fellow carrying a bunch of ‘greenery’ – turned out he was on his way to the church. We saw that most of the other folks were also carrying bunches – looked like weeds to us, but I think it was ‘palm Sunday’, although they certainly weren’t palm fronds.

There have been several heavy rainfalls, with the river going up and down each time. The hippodrome has been flooded and even the road down to the campground was closed for a few days due to the overflow.

The local cycling club hosted a regional race about a week ago and there was a good turnout. Colin and I manned the beverage table, and we got a delicious lunch first with all of the other helpers.

There were several motorcycle riders helping as well to lead out the various groups of riders.

It was a lovely day and we were very glad to have been able to help out.

We ended up with lots of leftover coca colas (I did not have one – never in my life), but ran out of beer (not my fault either!).

It was VE Day yesterday and it was a big deal here – far more important than ‘May Day’ last week.

There were several different groups of service people represented at the local war memorial where they layed wreaths, then all gathered at the bar for a drink afterwards.

It’s the most crowded I’ve ever seen the place!

I know that in other places in the world the end of WWII was a big thing, but over here, especially places like France, Belgium, The Netherlands, etc it is a really, really big deal. It hits you in the face at times like you can’t even imagine back in Canada.

Whether you’re seeing a large cemetery with hundreds of graves or a small roadside memorial to one unknown soldier – they are everywhere. And each and every one is immaculately kept and tended with love by the local people.

LEST WE FORGET!!!!

Gent Wevelgem and Home

After leaving the campground in the morning we tried to find a place to get a SIM card for the mobile wifi device. We were directed to the town of Zottegem where, I was told, I would be able to find a place that sold them no problem.

Well – it was a problem. First I took my ipad and wifi device into a kind of fancy shop that sold phones and all accessories and asked for a SIM card – I was told that I must have Belgian ID and would have to wait at least a week. I asked if there was any other place I might get a card without all the fuss and was directed to a place near the train station. Arriving there I eventually narrowed it down to a small ‘variety’ store and upon asking was immediately presented with a new card off the shelf without any need for ID or a waiting period.

But…that wasn’t the end of it. When I put the card in the mobile device it didn’t work. The owner of the store got his young teenage son to have a try, but after almost 45 minutes I had to give up as nothing he tried would make it work. You need to go onto a phone and download an app, then scan a bar code – I was lost and so was the young fellow.

I then took the card back with me to the first store, and they also tried for about 15 minutes without any more luck. I don’t know why it had to be so complicated and was so frustrated I wanted to throw something – although not at the fellows who had really tried to help.

After that exercise in frustration we headed to West Flanders to find the route for Gent Wevelgem which was the next race. We’d been in the very same area six years ago – not far from the Ploegsteert and one of the beautiful and moving war memorials and many cemeteries.

We followed the route almost to the Kemmelberg and found a nice spot on the side of the road behind a couple of other campervans. Along the way we spotted several different groups of people apparently on tours of the WWI sights. There were four or five large golf-type buggies, then some sizeable walking groups.

After a nice quiet night I was, as usual, up early. There are some marked paths for walking, cycling and horseback riding and I followed one for a bit, only stopping when it crossed a farmer’s field and curved in the opposite direction from where I wanted to go.

As usual when on a race route there were many amateur cyclists going by, so after breakfast I walked down the road to see what was ahead. Just around the corner down from us were some ‘race marshalls’ for the sportif/fondo that was going on.

I asked them just to make sure we were on the Gent Wevelgem route and was told that the race would be coming down three times from a small side lane and turning sharp left onto the road we were on.

Then 400 meters on they would turn left again and go up the Kemmelberg. I asked three different people and was told the same thing.

Colin and I took Max and walked down to the turn up the Kemmelberg – fans were already trecking up to claim their places. There was a nice little park at the bottom with some amusing carvings.

We had to leave Max in the campervan as he’d just get too excited by the race and all the fans, and picked our spot right where the side lane joined the main road.

The first sign of the race arriving was a bunch of motos – all coming down the main road, then the riders arrived – coming down the main road that we were parked on! So much for getting advice from folks that are supposed to know.

The first time they passed us they arrived just before 1:30.

Two of the racers each threw any empty bidon to the little fellows on the road above us – they were so thrilled!

The final pass did come down from the side lane, and Mads Pederson was in the lead…

…and ended up winning.

The next morning we made a serious decision – we chose to return back to Mansle rather than chase and watch the other races. Back in 2019 when we saw 10 races in three weeks it was very exciting, especially for me, but now it was just very tiring, especially for Colin. Also – not to be discounted – the toilet in the campervan got screwed up and was not opening/closing – not good!

We got back to the house in two days, and were very happy to watch the next few races on the big screen.

Some Delicious Lunches, and an Unwanted House Guest

We’ve been to a restaurant just outside Ruffec a few times now – it’s an old water mill that’s been nicely redone into a lovely restaurant that has really excellent food.

There’s a little white resident dog that wanders around – very cute but could use a bath.

After the first restaurant visit we popped up to the nearby town of Civray – it was a very important town for the resistance in WWII. Since it was just past Remembrance Day there were still some beautiful flowers around the base of the war memorial.

The town also has a very old church that goes back to the 1100’s. As usual I went in for a look while Colin and Max stayed outside.

There seemed to be many different styles of decorations, some of which were quite lovely, but overall the effect was a bit of a mish-mash.

We made a couple of visits up to the charity shop in Sauze-Vaussais – mostly for jigsaw puzzles and books, although they also have hundreds of DVDs and CDs. It’s almost all Brits that volunteer there and shop there, and as it’s a charity for animals dogs are welcome. Max always gets fussed over where ever we go.

Max still loves going to the campground for his daily run-around – he ventures off on his own and runs back and forth to us from time to time as we walk too slowly for him.

The rain every few days has kept everything nice and green…

…and the town has put up their Christmas decorations.

The Penalty Bar has had two very nice lunches – the second one was my favourite as it started with Coquille St Jacques, followed by whole baby chicken, then a lovely cheese plate and dessert. I accepted a shot of cognac but Colin had to partake of it for me – he also had my dessert. The lunch was followed by karaoke – Edith has quite a good voice but the other folks that got up and sang left a bit to be desired. One lady was somewhat ‘entertaining’ as I think she had a more than a bit of wine with lunch, but she looked like she was having fun.

The local cycle club is celebrating its 130th year and had a really interesting display in the town library.

We did have one little bit of ‘excitement’ with a small visitor. Colin noticed a movement out of the corner of his eye one evening – it was a mouse! As we didn’t want to kill it we went to the garden centre the next morning and got a ‘live trap’ that we set with some of our precious cheddar. It was a very crafty little thing, however, and three times managed to get the cheese out without triggering the flap. We were finally successful in the end by baiting it with a couple of half-open hazelnuts.

Colin let him out under a bush next to the parking area in front of the house – I hope he finds a warm dry place for the winter, as long as it isn’t back in the house!

We left for Spain on Dec 24th and had two quite long days of driving, although the traffic wasn’t bad and there was no ‘border’ check entering Spain. We arrived at the house on Christmas afternoon and it was so warm on the back terrace that I ended up in shorts and flip-flops – although it is not always so nice. It does get quite cold at night, although not yet below zero. I’m still getting lettuce, chard and collard greens from the garden and look forward to planting more than just the one raised bed in the spring.

Rio Luna again, Water Issues again, Pogacar Dominates again.

Having already decided to skip Saturday’s stage that ends in Villablino we went north on the same road that goes there, but then turned east to our ‘go-to’ campground Rio Luna.

In our years and years of traveling in the campervan we’ve been to dozens of campgrounds – and Rio Luna is our very favourite.

We’ve been there several times now and will drive miles and miles out of our way just to stay there – we love it! It is very basic with showers, etc and a bar and also has many lovely hiking trails and very few children – a big plus for us!

Also they will let the dog in the bar and put the Vuelta on the tv for us – as long as there’s not an ‘important’ soccer game on.

We got to see Michael Woods make an extreme effort and get a triumphant solo mountain stage win on Friday – excellent!!

We took a couple of nice short walks, had some excellent coffee and just relaxed for a couple of days in a lovely place.

We left our little paradise on Monday intending to take it very easy on the way back to Saliente.

Taking the motorway for some time we covered a lot more ground the first day than I thought we would. We took a different route than on we’d done before and went through some very lovely countryside.

Getting back to the house was great in some ways, and not so great in others. We both love the area in general, and the house in particular but once again water was an issue.

We went over a week with no water, resorting to fishing jugs of water out of the pool so we could flush toilets. And of course the day after getting some agua from the tanker guy the co-op finally delivered also. At least we’re topped up and are considering getting another large tank installed for a backup supply.

We managed to get a small fall crop of veggies planted in one of the raised beds – little seedlings of lettuce, kale and onion, as well as seeds of carrots, beets and chard. It’s nice to look forward to harvesting our own food even though it’s only a few things for now.

We’ve had some fierce winds as well as some lovely sunsets.

A few days ago we took a day trip to the village of Gorafe – a place we’d seen on a video about the cycle race along ‘The Badlands’. The route is both beautiful and brutal and passes through a desert and down to the coast.

Unfortunately at this time of year there’s not much happening – Colin asked a local lady where a restaurant was and we found it by following the voices from above (it wasn’t really marked but we could hear talking through the open windows). They weren’t doing lunch but the owner was kind enough to make us a small plate of tapas so we didn’t starve.

We stopped at a restaurant we’d passed near the highway and did get a good lunch – as usual we were almost finished as more and more folks arrived to eat.

We also need to replace the pump that moves the water from the upper tank into the house – it’s not pleasant to be partway through showering and have the water die out. Luckily hitting the reset button on the pump is getting it going for now but a new one the doesn’t stop spontaneously will be nice.

We enjoyed watching the cycling world championships on tv and were so happy when Remco Evenepoel won the time trial and Tadej Pogacar won the road race – and in great style too having gone on his own with just under 100 km to go. He’s going to look very good in the rainbow jersey for the next year!

Finding the Vuelta

Leaving the lovely park in the morning we tried once again to find the climb on the next day’s route.

We knew we were on the right roads part of the time but just didn’t know where all of the turnoffs were as nothing was marked yet. We back-tracked to Baiona and decided to go a bit west just for fun – once again we’ve found the Camino! – 150 km to Santiago.

And there’s a parking area with fantastic views of the ocean and a lovely smooth foot/bike path.

We stopped to take in the views and I laughed a bit at the fact that some folks, when presented with breath-taking vistas choose rather to look at their phones!

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After a bit more to-and-fro we were once again heading north along the coast when we saw a large group of riders making a turn inland – today is the rest day and it was the entire Movistar team doing a recon of the final climb and then down into the finish. The road was not marked and if we’d timed it differently we might still be circling the area!

There were quite a few nice wide places to pull over so we got a bit ahead of the team so I could hop out and take some photos. They were very happy to see us and Enrique Mas posed for a photo with a team-mate as they rode past.

We found a spot for the night on the route and finally relaxed now that we knew we were on the right road.

In the morning the fellow from the campervan that was parked near us was busy putting Belgian flags up everywhere, and he had a lot of them!

We put a few of ours up as well, and as usual as the day progressed more and more fans showed up parking where they could along the road.

There was a bit of excitement at one point when a fan coming down the hill on his bike crashed and the ambulance had to come. There were police with flashing lights directing the traffic and the ambulance took the guy away up the hill – it seemed like a collarbone or shoulder injury so hopefully not too serious.

The race arrived right around 5:00 with Wout van Aert in the lead (we found out later that he won the stage).

Roglic and some of the other main contenders were about five minutes behind.

As soon as the race passed…

…we started to pack up and were on our way to our next chosen race watching place for Thursday. We made it to the city of Tui and found a Lidls to stock up on food, then continued on past Ourense looking for a stopping area along a secondary highway. We did find a place to stop but it was one busy little road and the cars and big trucks just whizzed past all night long – not much sleep happened!

Back to France and Not Getting to Italy

We had to return to France again so Colin could refill his most important prescription – they’ll only give him four weeks at a time because of the cost.

The trip back was pretty good and we took basically the same route as we did the last time at least until we got past Pau.

We stopped before the border to have a bite to eat at a nice pullout in the Valley of Aragon – a very pretty area.

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Crossing the border we encountered evidence of the recent protests such as the upside-down town signs, although without the tractor blockages.

The flooding at the campground and hippodrome has mostly gone down…

…and the irises in our terrace boxes are flourishing.

We got a new pressure washer and I finally had a go at the terrace – what a difference!

…

I didn’t get Colin a cake for his birthday so I (quite reluctantly) made him one a couple of days later. My first-ever cake was a success!

A lovely carrot cake with cream cheese icing – a bit too sweet for my taste but if I ever make another one I’ll use a lot less sugar.

We’ve had water coming into the spare bedroom with all of the rain – looks like we need some work done on the roof. We have poly and towels over the bed and on the floor to try to mop it up.

We’ve been working on our ‘to-do’ list and the most recent accomplishment was hoisting Colin’s vintage 1965 Viking ‘Severn Valley’ that he raced on successfully in ‘65 and ‘66. It’s now hanging proudly above the lounge.

And since we can’t make it to Italy as planned we’re watching the Giro on TV.

Flooding in France, Lack of Water in Spain

The town of Mansle is doing lots of ‘beautification’ work – putting in planters and some lovely cobbled sidewalks, etc.

It’s a bit of a pain while the work is being done but should look great when it’s finished.

The nearly constant rain has caused the local rivers to flood and the Charente is no exception.

We can’t take Max down to the campground for his run anymore as it, as well as the hippodrome next door are completely under water.

Colin goes out each Wednesday afternoon driving the ‘pickup’ car for the local cycling club and I’ve developed a habit of popping down the the kebab shop for a donair and fries to eat while he’s gone.

Max is ok when he’s with me but he does look for Colin.

They’ve completed pruning back the trees around the square – it’s amazing that in a few months they’ll be shading the whole place again.

The trip back down to Spain was good – a bit of rain on the way but not too tough. Getting back to the house was great – and the weather was so much better than it had been for weeks in Mansle.

There’s still a lot to do in the garden – getting water at first was a bit of a pain, but once the local orchardists and farmers started using it again we had no problem.

The pellet burner was great – having it on for a couple of hours a day gets the radiators heated and the whole house gets warmer.

We haven’t been out on our bikes at all, and both Colin and I were struck down with covid (we think). He got sick several days before me and we both lost almost two weeks being unable to do anything.

Max has settled in very well – he just needs at little more exercise to work off some of his energy. He’s a very well behaved fellow with an extremely gentle disposition – I think Colin lucked out with him.

Off to the Races Again!

After corresponding with his oncologist back in France who told Colin that his most recent blood test wasn’t that bad we decided to go ahead on our planned road trip up north to see some of the Vuelta.

On the first day we made it a fair distance – past Toledo and on to the shores of a reservoir/lake. We were looking for a park-4-night place but ended up just pulling over on a very wide spot with a lovely view.

The second day’s travel was much shorter as we stopped in the hilltop village of Portillo – you could actually see Valladolid in the distance to the north.

We stayed at the park-4-night for two very rainy, stormy nights, emerging from the campervan during one break in the rain to walk to a local restaurant for lunch.

Along the way we noticed many gray gates that we could see weren’t made to keep people out, and realized after awhile that they were for the bulls.

Before leaving on the second morning I took a walk to a nearby viewpoint – there were wonderful views in all directions.

The trip to Valladolid was quick and easy – we knew exactly where we wanted to go and for once the GPS took us right there. It’s just to the south of the city in a large nature park with plenty of excellent places to spend a couple of nights, and most importantly it’s right on the Time Trial route for Tuesday’s Vuelta stage.

On the Sunday afternoon there was a huge group of motorcycles that rode past, accompanied by police – not sure what that was about but it was kind of impressive.

With Monday being the first rest day of the Vuelta we got to see many of the riders doing a re-con of the course. We were joined at our chosen spot by a couple of campervans from Belgium, one of whom had a Giro wolf and a Vuelta bull in his front window – also a moose from a race in Norway.

In addition on race day they put out a large teddy bear in Jumbo kit that they called ‘Wout van Aert’ – since he’s not riding in the Vuelta I guess he’s just hanging out enjoying the sun and watching.

As usual on race day more and more folks arrived to watch – we’re just before the 8 km to go marker and at the top of a very small hill.

Throughout the morning most of the racers did a lap or two of the course…

…as current world TT champion Remco was in the rainbow jersey.

I got a decent photo of Ganna approaching us with the photo-moto right behind him – he ended up winning the stage. If only he was on a different team I would be a huge cheerleader for him.

The crowds at our place got so big we even got our own police guards.

Remco flew by…

…and shortly after the current leader Sepp Kuss, who managed to keep his overall lead. Remco did make up a bit of time on his main GC rivals so it was a good day overall.

As per usual within a very short time almost everyone had left the site…

…and another quiet night was had.

To the Sea, Wasp Killing, Stray Dogs Rescued

We decided to take an overnight trip to the coast, heading first to the town of Carboneras. It seemed very pretty, and not too touristy but there was nowhere to park so we just kept driving north along the coast.

We stopped for lunch at the village of Sopalmo that was a bit away from the sea but seemed quite nice. It had lots of pretty white houses with lovely blue flower pots everywhere.

Henry had his first ride in his pram – he seemed to like it alright and we definitely made better time from where we parked to the bar/restaurant we went to for lunch.

We both ordered well-done hamburgers and ended up with almost raw meat. The potatoes were excellent, and the rest of what was in the burgers was tasty but Henry got most of the meat.

After lunch we drove a bit further north and stopped at a really nice looking beach with ample parking as well as a fort. This spot was used as a port hundreds of years ago as the water gets deep very quickly.

There was a placque giving the history of the place and part of it was in english – we just weren’t sure why it would have been manned by four people, three of whom were bullfighters.

You could see Mojacar in the distance to the north and we knew it would be very crowded, but there were very few folks at this beach.

We had intended to stay for the night but it was beastly hot, so almost at the same time we asked each other ‘should we just go home’? And so we did.

We got back to going for bike rides every second morning, one day making it to Taberno for coffee. On another day we rode down to the cafe at Llanos de Los Alleros.

After our coffee we explored the village a little bit – we’ve passed by it many times as it’s right on the way to Albox but we’ve never left the main road before to see the actual village. It was quite nice, with a lovely church and another cafe.

We had some company for lunch last week – we made good use of the sunroom, and their kids enjoyed the pool.

We are once again having water issues – this time we know the water is flowing in the channel but we can’t get hold of anyone to ask for it. That’s one of the more frustrating things about living here – we know we can call the tanker guy but we do belong to a ‘co-op’ that currently isn’t responding. We’ve now contacted the local facebook group to ask for advice – hopefully someone will have a different phone number or something so we can get the water we need.

We’ve discovered a couple more wasp nests and are pleased with the dozens of dead wasps, although there are obviously more nests to find as there are still a few that dip into the pool for water in the evening when we swim.

The birds are emptying the feeder almost as quickly as we fill it – we’ve also made a water bath for them and they seem to like it.

We found out on the local facebook group page today that the two dogs we feed in Las Pocicas have been taken into someone’s care. Last year’s puppy (who is named Chica) has been taken to the vet’s and has been ‘fixed’ and is doing very well. Mama Luna and her six new puppies are all in a couple of homes now and will be well cared for – we were so happy to read that as we look for them every time we pass through. We think they were rescued by a couple of brits we spoke with one day, along with help from a ‘sweet little spanish woman’.

(Photo from facebook group post)