St-Cirq-Lapopie and Rocamadour

Had a nice shower in the morning before leaving at a decent time. We headed north back past Cahours to once again avoid the Bordeaux area and ended up at a larger campground on the River Lot.
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There’s a really nice beach with lots of folks enjoying the water, swimming and paddling, etc.
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We were very hungry so ended up each having a nice piece of quiche at the beach bar in the shade overlooking the river before being driven to return to the campervan by the chain-smoking Germans at the next table.
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Later in the evening we walked up to the restaurant for dinner – I took a chance and ordered the ‘caesar salad’ which, as a salad wasn’t bad, but wasn’t even close to any caesar salad I’ve ever made. It had chicken, which isn’t out of line, but also had tomatoes, olives, onions, and red-leaf lettuce in place of romaine. It did have parmesan cheese, however, as well as tiny croutons so it wasn’t a complete fraud.
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The next morning before heading back to Mansle we took a little side trip to the picturesque village of St-Cirq-Lapopie just up the road. It’s perched up the side of a very steep hill and has been given a new life in the form of ‘artisan studios’ and lovely little restaurants and shops.
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It was a bit touristy, but was a nice change from some of the almost empty villages with nothing but derelict buildings and shuttered shops that are so prevalent in some areas now.
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We walked around and up and down, then chose a bar to have a rest and refreshing drink in. It was starting to get pretty hot so we left the village and hiked back up to the car-park.
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There were wonderful views of the village and valley below, with the river Lot flowing through the middle. We took smaller back roads generally north, and stopped in the village of Livernon for lunch. Colin had noticed a restaurant that was actually open and had people in it so we parked and went in.

It was blazing hot out and we endeavoured to find a place to sit out of the sun. We both got the plat-du-jour which was rabbit, and was it ever good. I haven’t eaten rabbit in a long time and it was just delicious.
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Back on the road we headed up to Rocamadour, which has a medieval village climbing up a mountain – it’s also on yet another camino, and is an important pilgrimage destination.
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Luckily there’s a funicular that you can take partway down and back up. The place was crawling with people, and reminded me a bit of San Marino with all of the somewhat tacky shops.
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It also had an abundance of restaurants, and we chose one to have a thirst-quenching drink in. I should also mention that not all of the shops were tacky – there were also many selling local specialities such as nut oils, foie gras, and soaps.


We didn’t stay too long before taking the funicular back up and continuing our journey – air conditioning blasting.
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We arrived home a little late, having stopped so many times, but it had been a great little road trip.
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