Leaving Poggio early we headed to the peage and crossed into France – no border guards or anything so passports and covid certificates put away again.
While we thought it could take up to three days to cross southern France we just kept going. We made it past Narbonne before stopping for the night at an aire/sosta in the marshy area at the western end of Carmargue, next to a salt-water lagoon.
There were a lot a flamingoes but we only saw a few of the horses that are famous for running through the surf.
After a quiet night – despite the thunderous surf and storm, we got another early start. We found a Lidls in Rivesaltes for a few groceries and then a pharmacy in Alenya so Colin could fill one of his prescriptions, then went south along the coast and into Spain.
It was a very beautiful drive, winding around through lovely towns and up and over.
Crossing was, once again, not a problem – this was the border point between Cerbera, France and Portbou, Spain:
There’s a huge railway station and yards, including a hotel and other stuff in Portbou that the Spanish government spent millions and millions designing and building but somehow missed one crucial thing – the gauge on spanish and french railways are different so it’s a gigantic white elephant.
Taking the peage south we made good time and didn’t leave the main road until around Tarragona, finding a nice little aire/sosta in El Catllar.
There were already several campervans there so we pulled onto the car parking area which was empty. Right then a local cop drove up and told us it was only for cars so we had to ask one of the other campervans to move over a bit so we could squeeze in. By morning three more had arrived so the place was really packed – the car park was still empty.
There are quite a few hiking/biking trails marked, and also looks like some Roman ruins with an aqueduct in the distance.
Deciding to get away from the coast we took slightly smaller roads and headed west, travelling through varied terrain and changing vegetation – all beautiful in different ways.
Just before noon we saw our first Camino sign while passing through a town – in Spain for over a day before spotting one! After a long day of driving we ended up at a lovely aire/sosta on the edge of the village of Benageber.
It was a bit off the main road that had been very steep with many hairpin turns – as well there’d been a small rockslide that we stopped and cleared a bit so we could get by.
Once again it poured rain all night long, but otherwise was a peaceful place. We got turned around a bit when leaving, looking for a different road than we came in on. Eventually finding it we were glad to not be going down the hairpin road as this one was much straighter and less steep.
There are signs now and then warning of short fat cows from Canada – and they don’t mean me! I know that’s not what the signs mean but they struck me as very funny – I wish I had a sticker of the maple leaf to put on one. We never saw any cows though, short, fat or otherwise.
After a small diversion near Utiel we got going south and on to the village of Ricota that had another nice, but empty aire/sosta.
Another night of unending rain, but again a very quiet area so slept well. It’s a good thing we go to bed early as Henry is a very early riser – 6:00 is a late sleep-in for him, or if we’re very lucky perhaps 6:30.
With not far to go for the day we reached a campground in mid-morning, after passing workmen clearing a mud/rock slide and splashing through several small washouts, then winding our way along very narrow roads through the village of El Berra. We get to have showers and do laundry – luxury!