Once again when leaving we followed the coast a bit north before heading west and inland. We then turned north again and passed by the city of Matera before looking for a place to have coffee and/or lunch.
We spotted a nice looking restaurant just outside the town of Borgo Venusio, but finding a way into the parking lot was a challenge. After finally winding our way down and around we got in. We brought the dogs inside with us and luckily they were welcome.
We ended up getting a little more than we bargained for – both an appetizer and main course. The antipasto was several kinds of meat and cheese, as well as olives and bread. The primo was eggplant parmeggiano, and it was excellent – although I did my best I couldn’t quite finish it.
When we went to leave we were delayed by a ‘dog incident’ – there were two strays – mastiffs, Colin said – that came to the open back entrance just as I was about to take Mo out. The owner shooed them away, then told me it was ok, so I took her out and started towards the campervan.
I got more than halfway when the dogs saw me – they hadn’t gone that far. I eyed up the distance to the safety of the van, then scooped Mo up as one of the dogs looked at me and slowly started towards me. I made a hasty retreat back into the restaurant with Mo in my arms.
The owner once again shooed the dogs, this time waiting until we were all safe inside the campervan and on our way. I feel sorry for the dogs – they looked very pretty but underfed and were obviously looking for food – I just didn’t want Mo to be their lunch!
Back on our way we continued north to the coast, and bypassing Bari stopped a little further along just before the town of Bisceglie. The campground is lovely – lots of older olive trees and and not a long walk from the Sea.
They have geese and ducks, as well as a large vegetable garden. They evidently keep very good care of the shrubs, flowers and other trees as it all looks immaculate. The pool area is wonderful, and the only drawback for us was the loud music.
I’d pitched my tent right under a large olive tree, and Mo and I were just settling down for the night when the music started. It went on and on – I finally took Mo for a walk and to try to find out what was going on. Some very nice staff members told me – very apologetically – that it was a private party and would go on for at least another two hours. Mo just wouldn’t settle down so I had to dump her in the campervan and try to settle myself.
After about 4 hours sleep I got up to another sunny morning. We spent the day in the shade and keeping out of the heat. I asked about the music for the night and was assured that they didn’t think there would be another party.
After everyone had left the pool for dinner I took advantage of the empty pool to have a nice swim. Alas, it only lasted half a length as I was called over to the side by a staff member. He had to call another member over who spoke english – apparently it’s a ‘law’ in Puglia that you have to wear a cap, and I didn’t have one. Even tho the pool was empty but for me they wouldn’t even let me have five minutes – bummer!
I had a better sleep than the previous night, although someone next door was playing music, thankfully not as loud as the campground’s private party night.
Leaving the coast again we decided to head inland for the journey back to Papiano. We passed by Foggia, and stopped just off the highway outside Campobasso for lunch of homemade meatballs with spaghetti – ok the spaghetti wasn’t homemade but the meatballs were.
Fortified by a good meal we continued on kind of southwest for a bit to Isernia, then generally north to the mountain village of Pescopennataro – another challenge.
Not only did it start raining on the way, as we climbed higher and higher it got more and more foggy.
Thanks to a helpful local fellow we eventually found the lovely campground – it even had a bar/restaurant, and again the dogs were welcome. This time no loud music, or any traffic noise – the best sleep I’ve had in days.
The morning was much clearer – not exactly blue skies, but at least not foggy. And it’s not hot – I even put my jacket on when walking Mo.
We left before 10 and got to see a bit of the beautiful countryside we’d missed in the fog the day before.
