Got up nice and early and was on the road shortly after 8:30. I had plotted a fairly ambitious route, mostly on quiet side roads towards Stratford-upon-Avon. I packed a few extra things in case I got there and didn’t feel like riding back later.
Colin had warned me that the town is very touristy – mostly busses full of Japanese and Americans, so I wasn’t intending on seeing that much other than maybe Anne Hathaway’s house (and garden) and perhaps the canal.
The first part of the route was on kind of busy roads, at least until I was almost in Crowle where it turned off and went along the same road as the church tour I did last week. At one point I had to ride for a bit along the A44 which was very busy. The GPS indicated that I wasn’t to turn off for 11 km and I almost stopped and turned around – just as I was thinking that, there was a road that veered slightly to the right. Luckily that was the road I was meant to follow and was I ever glad to be off the busy one.
The quieter side road went thru Flyford Flavell and on past Radford. There was a turn-off south that had a nice bench on the corner so I stopped for a minute. I heard some voices coming from the east, and then a large group of walkers started to appear from around the hedge – there must have been about 20 of them in all.
I got back to riding and went another couple of km east before the clouds started looking more and more threatening. The forecast hadn’t mentioned much rain but I decided against pushing on any further once the thunder started.
At one farm along the road there was a little booth that had eggs in cartons of 6 with a sign that indicated they were 1 pound each – the honour system still works in some places. The place next-door had a ‘cattery’ – not sure what that is.
Back on the road from last week I was again in the ‘village’ of Huddington, which was where I couldn’t find the church before. I took a right-hand turn that I thought might lead into the village but it really only went past a few houses and then ended. There was an older man with a large black lab (Charlie) and he asked me (the man, not the dog) if I was looking for something as I slowed down beside them.
I asked if there was an old church around there somewhere and he responded ‘oh – that would be on my property’. We started chatting and, as is usual when he heard my accent (or – lack of, as I think of it) he asked where I was from. When I told him Canada he asked what part so, as usual, I said Vancouver. Then he told me that he had lived there for many years and thinks it’s a beautiful city – he had been a doctor at Lion’s Gate hospital!
As we chatted we were walking to his property, which was across the road. It’s a large estate with a very old ‘manor house’ and the church off to one side. He told me to go ahead and lean my bike up on a nearby tree and cut across the lawn to the church gate.
He noticed that the lights inside the church were on and said that there may or may not be anyone inside, but if it was open I could go on in. Just as I was about to walk over he mentioned that the church was involved in the ‘gunpowder plot’.
There was someone inside – a lady that was doing a little cleaning. She also mentioned the gunpowder plot, then said she was leaving, and asked if I could please turn off the lights and shut the door when I left. She also mentioned that the church picnic is on Saturday afternoon and I was welcome to join them if I wish.
I spent a little while inside – there are some very old-looking stained glass windows as well as large stone inscriptions. It was very peaceful and quiet, although the whole place could use a bit of airing out, as it smelled pretty musty.
I knew my way home from there so ignored the GPS and headed for the canal.
I got home in time to watch most of the day’s Tour – very exciting day, ending on La Rosiere, where Colin and I had seen a day of the Criterium. One sad thing, though, is that a lot of the sprinters, including Cavendish, didn’t make the time cut.
Once Philip (Lyn’s husband) returned from his walk on the canal, where he feeds the ducks, he managed to stuff my bike in the back of his car, with Lyn’s direction, then drove me down to Halford’s to get the tube replaced. Their bike repair shop is on the second floor, which seemed a bit odd to me since you have to lug the bike up the stairs, but there was no waiting line or anything. After hefting the bike with full gear up and down stairs in various train stations in Italy last year this seemed like a piece cake.
The next day I rode to the pub to watch the England/Belgium game for 3rd place – it wasn’t nearly as crowded as the other day when England got beaten by Croatia, but there was still a good number of folks there – once again they left disappointed.
This morning I slept in later than I have in ages – being slightly depressed makes me tired, I guess, as does staying up late reading. I really enjoyed watching the day’s stage of the Tour – it had 15 cobble sections and was very difficult. I was very happy with the result, with the exception that Richie Porte had to withdraw – I believe he broke his collarbone when he fell.
I rode back to the bar to watch the World Cup final – not many folks watching the game at all – after sitting on the stairs for Wednesday’s game because it was so crowded I had my pick of tables to watch from. I was kind of cheering for Croatia since they’ve never won before and were the heavy underdogs, but I’m just as happy that France won. I can imagine that the Penalty Bar in Mansle was going crazy.
I rode first to the canal (of course) and left it at Dunhampstead, where I took the road southeast. There’s not much traffic on the road and it’s nice and smooth, and winds past lots of trees and hay fields. There was supposed to be a church at Huddington but I couldn’t find any signs or see any spires so I continued on to Grafton Flyford.
Same as the church at Grafton Flyford this one is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It’s a Victorian successor to an earlier medieval chapel, and has the ‘Bromsgrove Guild’ west rose window which is the memorial to the men of the parish killed in the First Word War.
The cows were several different colours, and there were some really cute babies, as well as some young bulls. Some of them looked at me like they might run over – maybe they thought I had another load of hay for them.
When I reached Himbleton I took a short ride up the wrong hill but then I got my bearings and found the sign down a side lane to the church, which is dedicated to St. Mary Magdeline.
When I went to leave the church I noticed that my front tire was a bit low – it had gone very low several days ago after sitting in the sun for a couple of days when I first got to Worcester, but after pumping it up it seemed ok. As long as I topped it up a bit with air every day I’d had no problem riding on the trails or up/down the canal.
I went down to the pub to watch the England/Croatia game and it was, of course, a very animated atmosphere to begin with. I was pretty happy when France had won their game, and I don’t mind Croatia, but I didn’t feel it would have been safe to cheer for them, so I went with the crowd. As it was so packed I parked myself on the stairs below an older couple to watch – almost a front row seat, as long as I kept my feet out of the way of folks trying to squeeze by to the bar. The festive atmosphere did, however, go downhill somewhat when Croatia scored their first goal, then their second. By the end of the extra time there were people actually crying – one young fellow had his head down on his crossed arms and was just sobbing.
I may have mentioned this before, but I would have been a lot more impressed, no matter who won, if there had been considerably less fake injuries and moaning and groaning on the ground. I compare it to a cycling race – 5 or 6 hours of all-out racing, and someone wipes out – road rash from head to toe and blood everywhere. Does he cry and whine and want a penalty called before he’ll rise? First of all it rarely turns out that he’s actually not hurt at all, and no – he doesn’t grab an ankle and pretend it’s broken – he gets back on his bike, blood and all, and continues riding. Soccer – sorry – football players are complete woosies and it’s quite disgraceful to watch them dive and whine – totally unprofessional. But – once again I digress….maybe next time, England.
I watched a bit of the football game that France won, and the next day heard the England goals from outside the pub – it was so crowded inside I could hardly make my way to the bar to get my pint – even if I’d wanted to sit inside I couldn’t have found a seat.
Watched the first stage of Tour de France – the downstairs tv, that gets hundreds of channels, kept telling me to ‘insert card’ for the channels that were showing the race (ITV4 and Eurosport). I tried several ways to get it online to no avail, and ended up trying, as a last resort, the upstairs tv, that only gets about 15 channels. Eureka – ITV4 is up and running! I think I’ll get at least 5 hours a day, which is great – I can watch a bit, go for a ride, then still catch the last half.
There are a lot of different ways that folks enjoy the canal – walking, riding, fishing, boats. And the boats can be very different from each other – some are ‘tourist boats’ that just take people on a day cruise, and others look like people live on them, maybe all year long – dogs and all.
When I was at the pub earlier today I asked the bartender if he could put the second stage of the race on when it started at noon and he said sure, so after sitting outside a bit I went inside. He told me I could bring my bike right inside, and eventually got the volume up so I could also hear the race. There were several men at a nearby table and they started commenting on my bike, etc. They were quite impressed that I was over here all the way from Canada.
By the time I went back in the refund lady was there and didn’t ask any questions – I presume the machine eats a lot of coins. I didn’t want to risk losing another battle with the machine so I stood in line at the cafe and got a large black coffee. I grabbed several little creams, then added the last packet of honey that I’d taken from the hotel breakfast yesterday. I put the coffee in my metal water bottle to keep it hot and ate the package of dried bread that I’d also filched from the hotel in Mortain.
After my delicious breakfast (not!!) I went out on deck again – the coast as we neared Poole is very pretty, with white cliffs similar to Dover but not quite so high.
I was the first passenger down to the car deck and got the bike loaded up. The older couple arrived shortly after, but the younger fellow that also had a bike hadn’t shown up by the time we disembarked.
As I was walking my bike across a pedestrian bridge an older gentleman said that he’d noticed my Cdn flag on my camera case and told me that his son and daughter-in-law live in Clearwater! We chatted for a couple of minutes, then I continued on into the centre of town to get some cash from a machine and grab a cup of tea.
As I was finishing my tea the older gentleman passed by and we said hello again – I bought some nice cold water to fill up my other bottle, then was on my way again. It took a couple of tries to get on the right road, and it was a pretty busy one. Most of the cars gave me a bit of room, or slowed down until it was safe to pass me, but a couple cut it pretty close – I could feel the breeze of their passing.
We got back to Tony and Helen’s around 10:30 and had a better cup of tea and a bit of conversation before loading my bike up and hitting the road north/northwest again.
We went thru Vire, then stopped in St. Lo for a walk around – there’s a beautiful statue of a unicorn in the main pedestrian area in the centre of town, and a WWII memorial that used to be the main entrance to a large, very old prison. We stopped at a cafe for a drink, then back on the road again.
We’re in the area of the beaches where the Allies landed on D-Day and there’s a very large memorial to them in general, and the Americans specifically, in the town of Sainte-Mere-Eglise that’s very close to Utah Beach. We got out to have a look but the main area is fenced off and you have to pay to get in – we decided to just walk around the rest of the square a bit. Colin said he’ll visit tomorrow on his way back from dropping me off.
There’s a large church that was the site of a minor tragedy on the day the American 82nd Airborne paratroopers landed – one of them got tangled up on the steeple of the church and the nazis shot him to death as he hung there unable to get untangled. They now have a model of him, parachute and all, hanging there. Taking and holding the town was key to protecting Utah Beach so the main force could land safely.
On our way again it started to rain off and on – sometimes quite hard, although by then we weren’t far from Cherbourg. We found the hotel Colin had booked for himself for tonite, then located the ferry terminal for me. To kill some time we went to McDonald’s to use their wi-fi, although the signal was very weak.
We got to board right after a couple of semi-trucks, and were some of the first ones on the passenger deck. I chose a nice lounge-type chair to start with, but moved to a large comfy bench in the cafe area right in front of the tv that was showing the England-Colombia game. By the end of the game there must have been close to 100 people gathered around, and of course they were ecstatic with the outcome. Every goal in the shootout was loudly groaned, or cheered depending on who had scored.
Arrived at Mortain at just after 4:00 and there was a sign on the hotel that they would be open at 6:00 so we kept going north to Sourdeval and Tony and Helen’s house. Helen met us outside and told us Tony was having a rest so we parked the car and decided to go for a walk.
We walked in a circle up the hill, then back down on the old track to the town, which seems very nice. By the time we got back to the house Tony was up an about so we said hello and visited for a bit until it was near 6:00.
We stopped at the store in Sourdeval, then drove to Mortain and checked in. There’s a large church right across the main road from the hotel that’s flying several different flags, one of which is the Maple Leaf.
Apparently this is one of the towns that was almost completely destroyed by the Nazis in WWII – there were very few walls left standing as the Nazis made their retreat after D-Day. Somebody needs to remind the retard in Washington about what starting a world war really entails.
Back at Tony and Helen’s we had a lovely dinner, then visited for a few hours. Their house is beautiful and one wall of the living room is all stone with a huge fireplace. The yard is also beautiful, with a pond, fruit trees, flowers and bushes, and a large (and very busy) bird feeder.

Someone near the entrance was handing out free tickets to get in, which was very nice. There were quite a few folks there already – there was a ‘beer garden’ as well as several lines of people betting. The stands weren’t huge, but there was also a large grassy area on a hill overlooking the track.
We went first to see the horses – they’re all in one large area getting ready for their races. Some are already trotting around the track, some are getting new shoes, and others are still in their travel carriages.
The first race started at 3:00 and they ran about every half-hour after that. I didn’t do any betting, but if anyone wanted to make money on which one was going to lose they could go with my pick to win – I guess the colour of the jockey’s jersey isn’t the most scientific way to choose.
We watched several races – the prizes seem fairly large considering how small the venue and crowd is – the pot for one race alone was 18,000 euros.
Even though the stands weren’t full there were several (rather fat) people that sat themselves down on the stairs – other people were having to step around and almost over them to get up or down – I really didn’t understand why they didn’t just slide their fat butts over a bit, but there you go.
We left about half-way thru – there were some horses warming up with only a rider and no cart but we didn’t stay for those races.