No one else had joined us overnight, but one car and one other campervan got in during the first part of the morning.  After breakfast we walked up the road, passed a bunch of cows, cut across a field uphill and into La Rosiere. We are parked just below the ‘2 km to go’ sign as we passed it just around the corner and up the hill a bit.  There were, contrary to what we’d been told was allowed, quite a few campervans parked in various places.

We saw a small area of cement next to a building near the upper end of the village – it was fenced in and had a dog house in one corner.  I looked in and there was a real St Bernard lying inside looking very unhappy. We read the sign and apparently she (her name is Cybelle) gets walked 3 times a day for an hour each time, but I don’t think she wants to be in a cage with cement the other 21 hours – poor thing.

The fnish is quite something – a whole large area for the tv crews, along with a huge screen showing, at this moment, the end of yesterday’s stage.  Much of it is roped off from the public, but we got around it and over to the other side for a cappuccino at a nice outside table overlooking the finish area.

It was the most expensive cap we’ve had yet – almost 3 times what the previous high was.  It was also very different from what I’d become used to in Italy. There wasn’t nearly as much creamy foam, and it was extremely strong but very good.  I added the rest of a packet of honey that Colin had taken from a previous cafe for me, and that wasn’t enough so I added the small chocolate that came with my cup.  I know, for some people that’s almost like sacrilege but so I made a cafe mocca – I don’t care, it was now delicious.

Walked back down to the campervan and looked at various places to park a chair – i ended up across the road and down a bit from the spot I’d originally chosen so I wouldn’t get the group of campervans in the background of all of my shots.

I took Mo for a little walk down the hill towards the campground, and there are several campervans parked right across from the entrance.  At least a couple of them are British, and there’s a fairly large group of folks in yellow shirts that got off a tour bus that’s parked in the campground’s driveway.

Not long before the racers arrived a white van came along honking it’s horn and hanging pink t-shirts out the window – I thought it was like at other races and they were selling them for 20 euros each, but they were actually throwing them out for free.  The Belgian lady next to us got two and when she saw my look of disappointment she gave me one! I was so happy – I ran inside the campervan and changed into it immediately – it’s beautiful and long and fits great.

The fellow in the car that arrived this morning set up a table and is selling knives that have wooden handles with bike racers on them – apparently they have ‘lock-blades’.

The Belgian man had the race on his tv so we knew how close they were (in addition to hearing the heli’s somewhere below us).  About 1 minute before the first racer appeared two amateur riders came up – I almost shouted at them to get the -blank- off the road.  What were they thinking? That would never happen at the Tour.

Finally the police motos and the first rider arrived, followed about a minute later by a group of four that contained Daniel Martin, Adam Yates, Geraint Thomas and Romain Bardet.  The camera-moto was driving right alongside them and was pointed directly at me – maybe I’ll be on tv!!

Nibali came along a good 10 or 11 minutes back of the leader – I guess this is just a warmup for the Tour for him, although he did look good – not as if he’d cracked or anything.

It was at least ½ hour until the last rider passed, and within about 20 minutes or so we had taken down the flags and hit the road.  Downhill on switchbacks for miles and miles to the town of Bourg-St-Maurice – must have been a horrible climb up for the racers.

Just after the town we turned up a small road that is on the route of the final stage of the race tomorrow – there were signs that said it was closed and a couple of campervans came back down towards us – they said they were taking a different route but we decided to keep going.  The Belgians were right behind us, as well as a couple of other campervans and once in a while we saw a black arrow on a yellow-green background pointing us ahead so we knew we were still on the right road.

We passed through an area called ‘Valley of the Glaciers’ – I took a photo of the sign, then my next one was of a snow covered mountain.  Colin pointed out later that it was almost the exact shot that had been on the sign, and I hadn’t even realized it at the time.

We pulled over for a moment at the summit of the next pass, and the Belgians and others passed us.

Down down down, past the Lac de Roselend and the town of Beaufort, then up up up again – time to start looking for a camping spot.  We passed the Belgians at a place that had 3 or 4 others in it, but there wasn’t room for anyone else.

We continued on a short ways almost to the town that is at the summit and decided to turn around and go back to a very small spot just below where the Belgians are.  It is the perfect size for the campervan so we pulled in and got settled.

After dinner I took Mo for a walk – just across the road from us there’s a sign that indicates that 3 different walks start there – one is 5 minutes, one 20 and one 45.  I followed the very small paved road down and it ended very shortly in the yard area of 3 houses and a small barn. No indication of where any of the trails went from there so we hiked cross-country up the hill and back to the road.

Just before 8:00 we saw a farm-lady walking in the middle of the road, and then looked out the door and saw a couple of cows along the side of the road, then more and more cows coming right down the middle of the road.  

There must have been 30 or 40 of them, and we figured they were coming from fields up the road and back home to be milked.  A small car coming up the hill had to stop right in front of us, but he kept on edging forward, then tried to drive (slowly) right through the cows!  I yelled at him to back off, and hoped that one of the cows would kick his car, or maybe drop a big pattie on it, but no such luck.

 

Little Spreet came out to see me when I was walking back across the courtyard after my shower – he didn’t bark at all and even let me pick him up!  He cuddled for a bit, then I had to put him down and get back to the campervan for a bit to eat.

Got on the road just after 9:00 – back up past Torino, then north/northwest past Aosta and onto a small, winding mountain road heading southwest in the Alps.

Stopped at the lovely town of La Thuile for a cappuccino – seems like both skiing and hiking are really big here.

Not long after leaving the town and climbing up yet more hairpin turns we hit the snowline – several feet piled on each side of the road and no trees in sight.

The summit, which is the ‘Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo’ in Italian, or the ‘Col du Petit San Bernard’ in French (almost all signs here are in both languages) is at 2,188 metres, and there are carvings of St. Bernard dogs everywhere, as well as a couple of statues of the man Saint Bernard.  Also lots of depictions of marmots as well as the odd ibex.

Not far after the summit we crossed over into France – you could tell the difference immediately – no guard rails or fences or anything at the side of the road now.  Getting close to our destination of La Rosiere, which is the finish of tomorrow’s stage, we started seeing ‘no parking’ signs and tapes in every available pull-out or possible parking space.

When we reached the town we parked and went into a cafe and were told there would be no overnite parking anywhere in or near the town – not even for the Tour de France which is coming thru in July.  She advised us to ask at the tourist information centre about where we could park for the night – it would be open in about 20 minutes. We looked at the price of a cup of cappuccino and decided not to wait there but strolled around a bit instead.

At the tourist centre Colin spoke with a ‘very officious’ lady who told him there is a campground down the road a bit and the race will be going right past it.  Apparently there is a trail from there back up to the town if we want to see the actual finish of the stage.

We drove down out of town and very shortly at the first hairpin saw what would have been a perfect place to park – it was already occupied by 3 french campervans and there wasn’t really enough room for us to park without being on a steep tilt.  The folks were very nice and told us there was another space on the side of the road not much further along.

Sure enough there was a large pull-out with only one other campervan there – a couple from Belgium with four dogs (!).  We got parked and settled in – got the satellite dish going – reception is perfect. Got to watch the last 30 km of today’s stage on tv, and noticed out the window 3 or 4 VW micro-busses go by, then a few more, then some more along with some beetles.  All in all there must have been 20 or more busses and 6 or 8 beetles – don’t know if they’re here for the race, or heading somewhere further.

After the stage was over on tv we walked down to the campground that’s only a couple hundred metres away on the other side of the road.  Used their bins to dump our garbage and recycling in and checked out their bar, which wasn’t open yet.

Throughout the rest of the afternoon and evening more campervans arrived – last count was a total of nine.  We’ll see if any more can squish in tomorrow. Had fresh tortellini with Italian tomato sauce for dinner – it was a bit spicy.  I looked at the ingredients on the label and it did include peperoncino – one of the spices used in a lot of the Italian cooking shows I like to watch so much at home – no wonder they only use a little bit at a time.

 

Yet another gorgeous morning – it’s very quiet and peaceful at the campsite.  It’s a little out of town and on a steep hill with lots of trees. We had a visitor that was perfectly happy to come inside the campervan and see Mo – another little dog that got along great with her.  It might be some kind of spaniel, and Colin thinks it belongs to someone staying in one of the bungalows up the hill from us.

Took Mo for a little walk around – saw which of the bungalows the cook is staying in – her cat was watching us from the safety of the deck.  Walked up some steps and found the organic garden that a lot of the produce in the restaurant must come from.

Got going around 9:30, heading north to the motorway.  Got a little frustrated at one point as the GPS was misleading us slightly, but it all worked out.  

Covered a lot of miles towards the west quickly, but the scenery just isn’t the same – we can see the Apennines just to the south almost all the way, but the plain itself is kind of boring.  The drivers here are just crazy – one small car ahead of us looked like he was going to exit the motorway, but at the last instant he pulled back right in front of us, then veered halfway into the left lane, then back and forth, back and forth over the line of one side or the other.  We finally got by him and when I looked down at the driver he was texting – stupid idiot!

Stopped in Pinerolo for food supplies, then on to Cavour, where we went first into the town and my favourite cafe for a cappuccino.  Had no luck at all with the internet, but the coffee was great and just being there made me happy.

Got to the campground around 5:00 and were met, as usual, by mama Maya and baby Spreet, both barking up a storm.  Parked in the ‘usual’ spot and had gnocchi and a greek salad for dinner while it thundered and threatened rain outside.

Just after dinner I took Mo for a walk-about and when we crossed the courtyard the little ones came yapping up to us – Mo didn’t quite know what to do – she didn’t get all growly or anything, but I scooped her up just in case.

As we were heading back to the campervan the sky opened and the rain starting pouring – not as bad as when I got here for the first time last June, but wet and noisy just the same.

Colin and I walked to the place next door (that has the excellent restaurant) and got a glass of wine and used their wi-fi.  Even though we weren’t having dinner the waiter brought us a stack of bread sticks and a plate of cheese cubes and some kind of salami.  I ate almost constantly – never had so much white bread in my life as I’ve had in Italy! When I went to pay the waiter he mentioned the lousy weather – not sunny like last year – he remembered me!

 

Pretty early start after a quick breakfast – on the road north before 9:00.  Actually went thru a very small part of Firenza after taking a wrong turn, then got onto the motorway for a bit.  

At one point we were stuck behind a smelly big truck and there were lights and sirens behind us – it was a ‘search and rescue’ type of vehicle, not really an ambulance, but definitely on a mission.  We slowed and pulled over (as much as we could on the narrow road) but the truck ahead of us didn’t even try. When the emergency vehicle did pass the truck he stuck his hand out the window – Colin wondered why he was thanking the truck but I was pretty sure he was giving the truck driver the finger.  Awhile later Colin saw a helicopter that looked like it was airlifting someone out – perhaps an injured hiker or something that the van that had passed us was speeding to help.

We exited the motorway to go north to Pistoia, then partway across the Appennines northwest thru Abetone to Pievepelago, where we stopped for lunch.  It was a small cafe with a nice outdoor area. Colin ordered a proscuitto and cheese panini, which turned out to be two pieces of white bread, not even toasted like a panini should be, and no condiments of any kind.  About 15 or 20 minutes later my tortellini and wine finally arrived – and the pasta was just excellent. It was stuffed with ricotta with a light covering of crushed tomatoes and was hand-made – really tasty.

When I went in to pay an older lady was there in addition to our waiter – I think she might have been the cook (and maybe his grandmother) because when I said how delicious my pasta had been she started talking with me.  I told her I was from Canada and she thought that was quite something – she went on a bit in Italian and I didn’t actually catch much of it but she was pretty happy.

We decided to pick a campground to go to and chose one in Zocca that wasn’t supposed to be that far away.  We couldn’t find it on the map so keyed it into the GPS – talk about taking the ‘scenic route’ to get there.  I’m only partly kidding – it was very picturesque (as the whole drive today had been) but darned if we could find the campground once we got to Zocca.  We must have gone up almost every road, and asked some very kind people for directions, before we finally found it. One fellow, that was a long way down a very small road, told us that the road ended at his house – we couldn’t turn around as the road was too narrow, but we could follow it to the end and just drive right around his house.

Once we located the campground the cook came out and told us that the owner wasn’t there at the moment but she showed us where we could park and plug-in, etc.  We went to the bar for a glass of wine and the owner returned – took our passports for a minute, then said we could pay, etc when we left in the morning. He asked if we might want dinner – after my large lunch I said maybe only a salad, but Colin said he’d have a meal.  Much of the menu here is organic, and actually grown here, and tonight there is no meat.

There are at least two cats and two dogs that have free-run of the place, including the bar and restaurant.  The cats are both pretty small, and one of the dogs is fairly large – looks like a cross between a german shepherd and a lab or something – all are very friendly.

Dinner was so good – started with some really nice wine, then an antipasto plate, along with my mixed green salad.  The antipasto was excellent – six or seven different things and all were hand-made and delicious – humous, chickpeas with tomato, focaccia, soft white cheese and other things – not sure what it all was, other than it tasted great. The salad was so fresh – grated zucchini, fresh garden peas, lovely greens – very refreshing.  Colin had the pasta – I believe it was rigatoni with tomato sauce – he said it was good. The owner told us that the cook had only been there about a month so he was very happy when we told him how good the meal was.

Had a wonderful long hot shower after dinner, and tried not to stay up too late reading.

Got a fairly early start – showered, had a bite to eat, then started packing.  Took a couple of things down by hand to the campervan, then loaded all the panniers on the bike and rolled them down together.

Colin did a final cleaning of the bathroom while I took all the perishables out of the fridge into a cooler, and what we needed out of the cupboards.  I took a bunch of ‘after’ photos of the outside of the house and terrace, then when the last bags were out of the house I took photos of the new kitchen and the re-arranged living/dining area.

We made it on the road just before 1:00 but didn’t get far – Colin stopped to pay a bill at the post office, then asked if I wanted a final cappuccino (or glass of wine, perhaps?) at Poppy’s – what was I going to say?  The door was actually locked but I had seen the owner’s son go into the little store while we were parked outside the post office and he returned just as we were about to leave.

Had a nice glass of red, then when I went in to pay I told the son (really should have gotten their names!) that we were leaving for France and would perhaps be back sometime in October – all in Italian.  I think he understood most of it…

We headed generally west and a bit north to the south side of Lago Trasemino – it turned out it was the same road we’d taken in the other direction on one of our excursions last October.  We then skirted the west side of the lake and stopped for a quick lunch at a pullout on the side of the road.

At the northwest corner of the lake we got onto a highway that took us right into Siena, passing through yet more beautiful countryside.

Once in the city Colin headed for a camping/parking place he’d been to before and we took the ‘scenic route’ to get there.  It’s basically a large car-park with some toilets, and has fairly busy roads on each side – cars zipping by in one direction on one side, the other direction on the opposite side.

Having been here for the finish this year’s Strada Bianche Colin knew the way up to the old city. It was a bit of a hike uphill, but luckily there is a series of escalators once you reach the steep part.  

Not far from the last one we entered a small square and I said ‘oh my god!’. It was the back of a church with all sorts of carvings everywhere – we continued on via a few small lanes and ended up at the front of it – again I said the same thing.  

It was georgous, but the more I looked the more I thought it was also kind of gaudy – too much, too much.  Also Romulus and Remus and the she-wolf that suckled them are very big here – they are portrayed everywhere.

The sun hit at the right place at the right time and some of the frescoes/painting shone just beautifully.

We walked down a bit and came across some young fellows doing a ‘flag dance’ of some sort.

A little further on we took a right lane downwards and came into the main piazza Mercato.  It is surrounded on two sides by restaurants and cafes and was filled with hundreds of people.  I felt quite ‘touristy’ but we ended up choosing a restaurant and sitting down for lunch. As we sat there the bells (of course) rang and we both agreed that they need a new set – they were the most ‘tinny’ sounding bells we’ve heard yet.

I had a ‘club panini’ which was the best sandwich I’ve had here yet.  Very luckily, it turns out it was Colin’s treat – my glass of wine alone was 7 euros!  

When we left the restaurant we took a different lane out and ended up going in a large, although interesting circle – another ‘scenic route’. We eventually found our way back to the escalators, then down the road to the campervan.  

 

Yet another sunny morning promising to be a hot day.  Did yoga, then went for a bike ride. Headed east, then took a side road south that curved around back towards Papiano – it was the back road that I had taken Mo for a walk on and met the ferocious dog on the foggy morning a couple weeks ago.

Turned around and took another side road to the north – it ends up at a T where you can turn either right or left.  On the corner is the local ‘community stadium’, which is just an overgrown patch of dirt surround by a falling down fence and no bleachers or anything.

Turning left (west) was a fairly steep hill with excellent views across to another village on a hill – eventually got onto the road that led back down to Papiano.  I enjoyed the downhill much more than the up and glided past the ‘other church’ ending up at Poppy’s where I had a nice cappuccino.

Back at the house it was time to get to work – I emptied out the china cabinet and washed everything in it while Colin vacuumed, washed and re-stained the tile floor.  We moved the cabinet to a different wall then I re-filled it with all of the clean glasses and dishes.

On the way down to Poppy’s for our usual nightcap I checked the planter that I’d deposited the injured bird into yesterday – no sign of it, although there did seem to be a fair amount of soil on the pavement around it.  I think it’s likely dead bird, happy cat.

Monday was another beautiful day with a bit of work mixed in.  I cleaned the fridge, and while the freezer was defrosting went with Colin to the pottery place we’d passed on the road to Perugia.  He picked out two fairly large pots with flattish backs and pretty designs on the fronts, then headed to Marsciano and got a beautiful jasmine plant to put in one of the new pots.  He already has a clematis, and Neil had fixed an extra fence section to the back wall to be used as a trellis for the climbers – it’s going to look awesome once they get going.

Back at the house did a load of laundry in the machine, then put them to dry on the rack outside – didn’t take long.  Watched a recap of the day’s Dauphinee – can’t wait to get up there for the final couple of stages.

Went to bed fairly early for once, foregoing the evening trip to Poppy’s.

Saturday was another gorgeous day – started getting hot by 9 or so.  I swept the outside stairs and the terrace from all the dust caused by the air-con installation, then spread out the yoga mat for another nice stretch.  

Just after noon we left for a day-trip to Trevi, which was very lovely.  We had lunch at a little place on the main square – we both had the lasagna-of-the-day, which was very good – tasty, with lots of cheese.  There were 3 or 4 eating places all next door to each other on one side of the main piazza, with a large parking area for cars and tour busses.  I thought they all had inside restaurants and we were just at the small outside area but, at least the one we were at, was more like just a kitchen and small counter area for 2 or 3 people to sit and drink, along with a very tiny bathroom.

After lunch we took a walk around the old part of the town – it’s quite high on a hill so has sweeping views of the whole valley below, including Foligno to the north and Montefalco to the west.

The town is really pretty, with many beautiful lanes, doorways, flowers, wall paintings, etc.

 It was lovely to walk around and everywhere I looked there was another thing of beauty or interest, whether it was a painting, a flower pot or a door-knocker, or simply the lane itself.

Back in Papiano again when we were walking from the campervan to the house I noticed what I thought was a dead bird in the middle of the lane – but it was actually still alive.  I told a fellow down the way about it and that is wasn’t dead yet and he said ‘oh well – that’s life – or I guess that’s death’. We had left-over meat-loaf for dinner followed by our daily trip down to Poppy’s for a nightcap.  On the way back I saw that the bird (a lark) had flapped and flopped its way down to the small piazza/parking area near the house so I tried to help it – I picked it up with two hands (and got bitten on the finger) and lifted it into a nearby plant in a large pot.  Maybe it’ll survive and maybe not – as the man earlier said….

A beautiful morning but didn’t have time for anything other than a cup of tea and a quick bite to eat – the air-con installers arrived just after 8:15.  We sat outside on the terrace and Mo barked every time they moved their big ladder, although she didn’t seem to mind the drill or small power saw. I took her for a walk down to Poppy’s for a cappuccino, then along to the little park and up the hill on the other side of the road.

Back at the house the two workers were still at it – they knocked off for lunch at 12:30 so we took the opportunity to also grab something to eat, then sat back in the courtyard until they finished.  It took them almost all day but they seem to have known what they were doing and it looks pretty good.

It works good too – the living room was much cooler in no time.  It will be very nice to have in the summer when it’ll be even hotter.

I made a meat-loaf with baked potatoes for dinner – it turned out not bad.  Went down afterwards for a drink at Poppy’s then stayed up much later than I should have reading another book.

After some rain during the night it wasn’t terribly surprising to wake up to an overcast morning.  The mist lifted but it was stormy and the rain did come – I hurried out and put the seat-cover on my bike just as the first drops hit.  The thunder was booming and Mo barked and barked, not liking it one bit – it seemed like she wanted to be louder than the big monster that she was hearing outside.

It didn’t rain long, then the clouds passed and it got sunny.  After trying several times to get thru by phone to Cascade Designs, who make my MSR tent, we figured out that we needed a ‘00’ before the country-code and the rest of the number that Dominic had forwarded to me.  Once the extra digits were entered we got thru easily and I was shortly speaking with a lady in the warranty/repair department. I told her what had happened and without asking any questions all she wanted to know was where to send a replacement part!  She needed my email address and immediately sent me an email with a diagram of the whole pole/frame apparatus and all I need to do is identify which part had chipped and broken, and tell her where to send the new one. She also assured me that it was very easy to take the broken piece out and replace it, and that people do it every day.

Colin and I then took a wheel-barrow full of old electronics to the tipping place – well, he took it while I walked Mo down to the campervan for the drive.  We stopped at a hardware store in Marsciano intending to see if we could pick up a jubilee clip as a temporary fix for the tent pole, but the store had closed 2 minutes previously for the (very annoying) 2-hour lunch.

Back at the house it was too hot to do any more door-staining so I stayed inside and continued reading a very good book that had been left in the house.  The previous owners had left, in addition to all of the furniture and dishes, an assortment of books and dvd’s.

Some time later the clouds moved in again, along with heavy rain, lightning and more thunder – no sitting out on the terrace this evening.

Thursday morning was so foggy you couldn’t see past the next house.  The sun slowly burned it off and the day gradually cleared. Took Mo-mo for a walk and got a cappuccino at Poppy’s – another kind of lazy day.  Colin did some more door-staining – the front door looks great with only two coats and the back now has its base.

The terrace is so lovely to sit and relax in – but having a mosquito coil burning definitely makes it more comfortable.

 

Spent most of Monday doing loads of laundry and cleaning the kitchen while Colin went to the home-store to arrange for the air conditioner to get installed.  I also vacuumed and dusted, in addition to wiping down all of the cupboards and washing all of the dishes that are used regularly.

The space sure looks bigger with all of the tools out, and we’re going to move the china cabinet after the air-con is done.  I took Mo for a walk down to the village store and then when we returned wiped off the outside table and a couple of chairs.  Sitting there on the terrace with a nice glass of wine is about what I had expected – just fabulous. (Below is the view from the terrace’s sitting area)

One of the black neighbourhood cats was sitting on the upper wall above the terrace and little Mo was down beneath going a bit mad trying to get at him – he didn’t seem at all worried, though, and just sat and lounged there looking down at us.

Tuesday was a bit of a lazy day for me, although Colin got to work putting the first coat of black stain on the front outside door.  He also re-painted the mailbox and it looks very sharp.

All I did was take Mo for a little walk down the hill to the store and back, then down again later with Colin for a drink at Poppy’s.  The owner seems to like us – he came out a couple of times and we chatted about where we had been the last week. He said he wishes he could do what we do, and that he wants to have his son take over the bar in a few years so he can move to Portugal.  He also told us that there are no fish anymore in lago Orta because of the chromium – ewww – it kind of taints my memory of how beautiful it was, and I’m sure glad I never jumped in for a quick swim. Oh – they also serve Caffe Vergnano 1882 here – now I’m noticing it everywhere!