It rained almost all night long and my tent got a bit wet inside because I hadn’t pegged the vestibules down completely. After a quick shower we left the campsite for our ITT watching spot a little after 7 – they close the roads off at 9 and we didn’t want to risk getting stuck on the wrong side of a barricade.
A bus came along and discharged two gendarmes and they set up a barricade along the small side road that we’re across from – the cows in a nearby field were unimpressed. Only official cars were allowed on the ‘main’ road after that, and even cyclists were told to get off and walk their bikes.
Many of the team cars drove by – scouting out the route, I guess – and some of the racers did a trial run. More and more people arrived, many without chairs – we thought ‘boy, are they going to be standing for a long time’, but….
The cavalcade came by about 1 or 1 ½ hours after the gendarmes arrived. It is so much more impressive that the Giro’s – it took over ½ hour for the whole thing to go past and I collected a pile of goodies, part of which I gave to the mother of some little girls. We found out soon enough why so many people hadn’t brought chairs – they left as soon as the cavalcade had passed – they were only there for the loot!

The ITT is only 32 km today, but it’s almost non-stop up and down and there are some very sharp corners. It had rained lightly most of the night, and continued for part of the morning so the roads, in places, could be challenging. We could see several different parts of the course from where we were, so we always knew ahead of time when someone was coming – and especially if the rider was French, as the crowds before us would go nuts.
We knew the start order so had a good idea when certain riders would be coming by – everyone was waiting for Sagan, of course. I got seven photos of the top of his helmet as he was looking down almost the whole time, but one shot isn’t too bad.
There was a group of three men and two boys that had been patiently watching and waiting for hours – one of the boys had a ‘king of the mountains polka dot jersey on, just like his hero – and it was quite funny because as soon as Alaphillipe passed they left! Didn’t even wait for the top 10 to come by.
Froome got booed as he passed – he’s not getting a very good reception here in France, and others on the team aren’t being that well received either. Dumoulin did well – he won the day, but still only placed second overall to Gerrant Thomas, Froome’s team mate on team Sky.


We headed back to the campground, then decided to go out for dinner. The road into Souraide was still closed from the race so we went north instead to Ustaritz, and was the going ever slow. Many people were leaving, although a surprising number stayed where they were – they were having parties on the side of the road here and there almost the whole way to the town.
We had a wonderful seafood-of-the-day dinner at Restaurant Du Labourd in Ustaritz. It was a lovely place – we arrived just after 7:00 and were told that dinner service didn’t start until 7:30 so we sat outside and had a drink first. The chef and some of the staff were at another table having their dinner before they got to work.
When I got back to camp I was informed, very nicely, that I had made a boo-boo when packing up the cooler. Not only had I forgotten to bring the eggs (and carrots), but I hadn’t sealed the lid properly on my olives and feta-cheese containers. There was olive and cheese juice all over everything in the bottom of the cooler – oops!
St-Jean is a beautiful town right on the ocean – just south of Biarritz. We found a parking spot right next to the seaside and walked along the boardwalk a bit. It’s a very touristy place, but at the same time extremely appealing in it’s own way. There are several really nice beaches and you can see the Pyranees in the distance.


Back towards Souraide more campers keep arriving all along the route – the roadsides in the wider spots are filling up, as is the campground. I’m a bit surprised at the number of tents.
There are quite a few kids at the campground, some very young, with bikes – they ride around and around and are very quiet (ie – not shreaking all the time). Had an early evening – all set for tomorrow!
There were already lots of campervans parked along the road and we wondered if we would have to ‘wild camp’, which we were prepared for, but still preferred the idea of a campground. We did stop at a B&B along the stage route, but it was, of course, fully booked. The lady there did, however, direct us to a nearby campground that we might try.
It wasn’t very far – just around the corner from where the stage will be going. We pulled in and walked up to the house/office. A man came out and indicated that they were full for the next several days, but when we told him we only had two small tents he thought about it a bit, then said ok – we could squeeze in somewhere.
We needed groceries, as well as lunch, so ended up driving just past St-Pee-Sur-Nivelle for the groceries, then back into the town to a bar for lunch. It was right on the main street – we sat outside and asked for two orders of the pate and each got a bowl of bread rounds and a small can of pate.
It actually was really good – not quite as good as what I had in Varenne, but not bad at all. Almost everything on the menu – both food and drinks – is from ‘Basque’ – many folks have red neck-kerchiefs and the Basque flag is prominent. I tried a local cider, which was ok – not overly sweet like some can be, and had a slight citrus flavour.
The shop next door to the bar we were in had some really neat posters of old Tours – one was from 1922, and the shop across the street had a cool painting of a cyclist on its window. Most of the signs – shop signs and street/highway signs – are in two languages – French and Basque.
Our neighbours at the campground are really nice – they invited us over to play a game that seemed similar to bocci-ball, but was with disks instead of balls. Colin passed on joining them, but I gave it a go. My first toss was really close, but after that it was hit-and-miss for me. One of the kids – probably around 13 or 14, was pretty good. They tried to instruct me on how to throw properly – one such piece of advice was ‘not a frisbee’.
When the game broke up so they could eat dinner I left – sat outside and read for a bit, then headed into my tent for more reading.
Colin filled up the back of the car with things for the charity shop – Mo got to ride in the back seat for once. It was getting very hot by the time we got there – Colin dropped off his donations and we went inside the cafe for lunch before going to the book store to pick up some more reading materials.
The ‘for adoption’ dogs were so cute – one of them was a 4 year old black griffon-labrador cross that was so sweet – more like a puppy than an adult – but he was having trouble finding his forever home. They told us that adult black male dogs have a lower chance of adoption – I couldn’t understand that – he was just so adorable.
The laundry I’d done earlier was well dry by the time we got home. We watched part of the day’s Tour stage, then went down to the bar for a drink – the race is being recorded. There were a couple of bad wipeouts on the very steep final downhill – one rider went clear over the barrier but luckily didn’t pitch down very far.
Michele from the local cycling club dropped by – he had been in Italy on vacation for two weeks and had stayed at Colin’s house in Papiano. He said the house was lovely – especially the air conditioning – and they went on lots of day-trips to places in the surrounding area.
I gulped down the coffee as we approached the port at Oistreham – they call the destination Caen as that’s the nearby city, but the port itself is actually Oistreham. I made my way down to the bike deck and got everything ready – I was the first cyclist there and got loaded up and out of the way so the others could get to their bikes.
We chose to follow smaller, quieter side roads home rather than take a quicker route via motorways. Not far from Caen was a memorial to the Canadians that helped liberate the city on July 9, 1944. Memories of the war are all over the place here (as they are in so many parts of Europe) – Normandy, of course, was in the thick of it, especially the attempts of the allies to get a foothold on the continent so they could have a base to work from to roust the nazis. NOTE to Trump and others like him, as well as their supporters – beware!! Don’t forget what hatred, ignorance and paranoia can produce. He who forgets the past is doomed to repeat it!

Lots of hay fields, and sunflowers. A couple of times I almost nodded off because I’d gotten so little sleep, but we made it home to Mansle in pretty good time even on the smaller roads we were using.
Shortly after we got home I walked to the store to get some essentials – tomatoes, cucumber, fresh greens, etc. Early to bed.
Got up nice and early so I could finish the cleaning – first the bathroom then the kitchen. It took me a few tries to get the clothes-line to collapse – turned out to be really easy once you lift the catch that holds it up. I even called over the fence to Lyn, who said she’d come over in a few minutes and have a look but by then I’d figured it out.
I gave all of the food out of the fridge to Lyn and Philip, took out the garbage and recycling, and was on my way to the train station before 11:00. The train was right on time – the first one was very new and clean, and almost empty. The second one, when I changed in Bristol, wasn’t. Well – it was clean enough, but not that new, and so crowded I had to stand up next to my bike almost the entire way to Portsmouth. It was also sweltering hot, unless someone kept pushing the button to open the door into the carriage, which had air conditioning – then it diminished from sweltering to merely very hot.
Just after 8:00 I headed to the first security booth, on the very far side of the lineup area. I went to the front of the line, along with the other bikes and we didn’t have to wait too long for the booth attendant to get us going. We showed out passports and boarding passes and were given stickers with our names on to attach to our bikes.
We were directed around the corner and each of had to take one of our bags off our bikes and go into a security room. The bags were put thru an xray machine, just like at an airport – and since I’d brought my camera case in that went thru as well.
Two decks up I checked out what’s showing at the two on-board cinemas – thought it might be nice to see Ocean’s 8 at 11:00 – then went to the area where the overnight lounge chairs are (that they make you reserve and pay for). The chairs are worse than airplane chairs and are very closely packed – think I’ll pass again and do like I did on the journey over.
After that I went slowly thru the centre and down near the river – found several more giraffes. I was mistaken about how many there actually are – I read (in the local paper that gets delivered every week) that there are 57 in all.
At least two of them have been vandalized – what low-life scum would vandalize a giraffe? The first idiot was a drunken 40-year old man, and the second was a couple of drunken young ‘ladies’. Apparently someone took video of the second assault, and their pictures have been circulating on social media – maybe it’ll teach them a lesson to be kind to animals (even if they’re only sculptures!).
I got to my 2:00 appointment early but that was ok – he took me right in. They let me put my bike in the back of the shop then I went upstairs and got my tattoo re-coloured. I’ve wanted to have it done for a long time now, and finally just went ahead and did it. When I originally got the tattoo many years ago (in Amsterdam on my backpacking trip) I had wanted it to be more colourful but it was starting to hurt so we decided at the time to just leave it as it was with the wings being flesh-toned instead of bright goldish-yellow.
After the tattoo was finished I rode along the river for a bit to where the canal empties into it – it’s so pleasant along there with a lovely path and lots of benches, etc, as well as more giraffes. The canal ride home was so nice – I’m really going to miss it.
The last couple of Tour stages were excellent – although I have to say ‘f***ing fans and f***ing motos’! I don’t care if someone doesn’t like Froome – neither do I – but they shouldn’t be throwing things at him or trying to hit him. And Nibali was taken out yesterday with a broken vertebrae in his back because of a collision with either a moto or a fan in the middle of a cloud of coloured smoke – he managed to finish the stage but was taken to hospital by ambulance at the end.
On Saturday I spent a bit of time washing sheets and vacuuming, etc, then treated myself to fish and chips for dinner at the pub. It was a lovely evening – not too hot, but not rainy either. Lots of people outside at the picnic tables – kids running around, dogs lolling about – a very nice atmosphere. Took a little ride around the nearby trails before heading home.
The quieter side road went thru Flyford Flavell and on past Radford. There was a turn-off south that had a nice bench on the corner so I stopped for a minute. I heard some voices coming from the east, and then a large group of walkers started to appear from around the hedge – there must have been about 20 of them in all.
At one farm along the road there was a little booth that had eggs in cartons of 6 with a sign that indicated they were 1 pound each – the honour system still works in some places. The place next-door had a ‘cattery’ – not sure what that is.
As we chatted we were walking to his property, which was across the road. It’s a large estate with a very old ‘manor house’ and the church off to one side. He told me to go ahead and lean my bike up on a nearby tree and cut across the lawn to the church gate.
He noticed that the lights inside the church were on and said that there may or may not be anyone inside, but if it was open I could go on in. Just as I was about to walk over he mentioned that the church was involved in the ‘gunpowder plot’.
There was someone inside – a lady that was doing a little cleaning. She also mentioned the gunpowder plot, then said she was leaving, and asked if I could please turn off the lights and shut the door when I left. She also mentioned that the church picnic is on Saturday afternoon and I was welcome to join them if I wish.
I spent a little while inside – there are some very old-looking stained glass windows as well as large stone inscriptions. It was very peaceful and quiet, although the whole place could use a bit of airing out, as it smelled pretty musty.
I knew my way home from there so ignored the GPS and headed for the canal.
I got home in time to watch most of the day’s Tour – very exciting day, ending on La Rosiere, where Colin and I had seen a day of the Criterium. One sad thing, though, is that a lot of the sprinters, including Cavendish, didn’t make the time cut.
Once Philip (Lyn’s husband) returned from his walk on the canal, where he feeds the ducks, he managed to stuff my bike in the back of his car, with Lyn’s direction, then drove me down to Halford’s to get the tube replaced. Their bike repair shop is on the second floor, which seemed a bit odd to me since you have to lug the bike up the stairs, but there was no waiting line or anything. After hefting the bike with full gear up and down stairs in various train stations in Italy last year this seemed like a piece cake.
The next day I rode to the pub to watch the England/Belgium game for 3rd place – it wasn’t nearly as crowded as the other day when England got beaten by Croatia, but there was still a good number of folks there – once again they left disappointed.
This morning I slept in later than I have in ages – being slightly depressed makes me tired, I guess, as does staying up late reading. I really enjoyed watching the day’s stage of the Tour – it had 15 cobble sections and was very difficult. I was very happy with the result, with the exception that Richie Porte had to withdraw – I believe he broke his collarbone when he fell.
I rode back to the bar to watch the World Cup final – not many folks watching the game at all – after sitting on the stairs for Wednesday’s game because it was so crowded I had my pick of tables to watch from. I was kind of cheering for Croatia since they’ve never won before and were the heavy underdogs, but I’m just as happy that France won. I can imagine that the Penalty Bar in Mansle was going crazy.