We were ready and on the road before 9:30, heading south/southwest, and using the Beemer instead of the campervan as it still has electrical issues. Getting around Bordeaux was a slow pain, and the motorcycles were semi-suicidal. They’d whiz up in beside us out of nowhere and cut in front, then do the same to the car in the other lane, many times just riding between the lanes full of cars.
Once we passed Bordeaux it was still slow for awhile, then gradually the traffic cleared and we made good time again. We went pretty much straight south, passing through Ustaritz where we started to see signs for the Tour. We had put the GPS co-ordinates of a campground into the system but it misguided us so we just followed the signs for the stage route.
There were already lots of campervans parked along the road and we wondered if we would have to ‘wild camp’, which we were prepared for, but still preferred the idea of a campground. We did stop at a B&B along the stage route, but it was, of course, fully booked. The lady there did, however, direct us to a nearby campground that we might try.
It wasn’t very far – just around the corner from where the stage will be going. We pulled in and walked up to the house/office. A man came out and indicated that they were full for the next several days, but when we told him we only had two small tents he thought about it a bit, then said ok – we could squeeze in somewhere.
We had our choice of two spots, both of which were very nice. We didn’t need electricity or anything, so just pulled into the spot of our choice and proceeded to set up our tents. The views from the campground are just beautiful – it’s in the foothills of the Pyranees and the whole area is rolling hills covered with trees and small farms.
We needed groceries, as well as lunch, so ended up driving just past St-Pee-Sur-Nivelle for the groceries, then back into the town to a bar for lunch. It was right on the main street – we sat outside and asked for two orders of the pate and each got a bowl of bread rounds and a small can of pate.
It actually was really good – not quite as good as what I had in Varenne, but not bad at all. Almost everything on the menu – both food and drinks – is from ‘Basque’ – many folks have red neck-kerchiefs and the Basque flag is prominent. I tried a local cider, which was ok – not overly sweet like some can be, and had a slight citrus flavour.
The shop next door to the bar we were in had some really neat posters of old Tours – one was from 1922, and the shop across the street had a cool painting of a cyclist on its window. Most of the signs – shop signs and street/highway signs – are in two languages – French and Basque.
Our neighbours at the campground are really nice – they invited us over to play a game that seemed similar to bocci-ball, but was with disks instead of balls. Colin passed on joining them, but I gave it a go. My first toss was really close, but after that it was hit-and-miss for me. One of the kids – probably around 13 or 14, was pretty good. They tried to instruct me on how to throw properly – one such piece of advice was ‘not a frisbee’.
When the game broke up so they could eat dinner I left – sat outside and read for a bit, then headed into my tent for more reading.
Colin filled up the back of the car with things for the charity shop – Mo got to ride in the back seat for once. It was getting very hot by the time we got there – Colin dropped off his donations and we went inside the cafe for lunch before going to the book store to pick up some more reading materials.
The ‘for adoption’ dogs were so cute – one of them was a 4 year old black griffon-labrador cross that was so sweet – more like a puppy than an adult – but he was having trouble finding his forever home. They told us that adult black male dogs have a lower chance of adoption – I couldn’t understand that – he was just so adorable.
The laundry I’d done earlier was well dry by the time we got home. We watched part of the day’s Tour stage, then went down to the bar for a drink – the race is being recorded. There were a couple of bad wipeouts on the very steep final downhill – one rider went clear over the barrier but luckily didn’t pitch down very far.
Michele from the local cycling club dropped by – he had been in Italy on vacation for two weeks and had stayed at Colin’s house in Papiano. He said the house was lovely – especially the air conditioning – and they went on lots of day-trips to places in the surrounding area.
I gulped down the coffee as we approached the port at Oistreham – they call the destination Caen as that’s the nearby city, but the port itself is actually Oistreham. I made my way down to the bike deck and got everything ready – I was the first cyclist there and got loaded up and out of the way so the others could get to their bikes.
We chose to follow smaller, quieter side roads home rather than take a quicker route via motorways. Not far from Caen was a memorial to the Canadians that helped liberate the city on July 9, 1944. Memories of the war are all over the place here (as they are in so many parts of Europe) – Normandy, of course, was in the thick of it, especially the attempts of the allies to get a foothold on the continent so they could have a base to work from to roust the nazis. NOTE to Trump and others like him, as well as their supporters – beware!! Don’t forget what hatred, ignorance and paranoia can produce. He who forgets the past is doomed to repeat it!

Lots of hay fields, and sunflowers. A couple of times I almost nodded off because I’d gotten so little sleep, but we made it home to Mansle in pretty good time even on the smaller roads we were using.
Shortly after we got home I walked to the store to get some essentials – tomatoes, cucumber, fresh greens, etc. Early to bed.
Got up nice and early so I could finish the cleaning – first the bathroom then the kitchen. It took me a few tries to get the clothes-line to collapse – turned out to be really easy once you lift the catch that holds it up. I even called over the fence to Lyn, who said she’d come over in a few minutes and have a look but by then I’d figured it out.
I gave all of the food out of the fridge to Lyn and Philip, took out the garbage and recycling, and was on my way to the train station before 11:00. The train was right on time – the first one was very new and clean, and almost empty. The second one, when I changed in Bristol, wasn’t. Well – it was clean enough, but not that new, and so crowded I had to stand up next to my bike almost the entire way to Portsmouth. It was also sweltering hot, unless someone kept pushing the button to open the door into the carriage, which had air conditioning – then it diminished from sweltering to merely very hot.
Just after 8:00 I headed to the first security booth, on the very far side of the lineup area. I went to the front of the line, along with the other bikes and we didn’t have to wait too long for the booth attendant to get us going. We showed out passports and boarding passes and were given stickers with our names on to attach to our bikes.
We were directed around the corner and each of had to take one of our bags off our bikes and go into a security room. The bags were put thru an xray machine, just like at an airport – and since I’d brought my camera case in that went thru as well.
Two decks up I checked out what’s showing at the two on-board cinemas – thought it might be nice to see Ocean’s 8 at 11:00 – then went to the area where the overnight lounge chairs are (that they make you reserve and pay for). The chairs are worse than airplane chairs and are very closely packed – think I’ll pass again and do like I did on the journey over.
After that I went slowly thru the centre and down near the river – found several more giraffes. I was mistaken about how many there actually are – I read (in the local paper that gets delivered every week) that there are 57 in all.
At least two of them have been vandalized – what low-life scum would vandalize a giraffe? The first idiot was a drunken 40-year old man, and the second was a couple of drunken young ‘ladies’. Apparently someone took video of the second assault, and their pictures have been circulating on social media – maybe it’ll teach them a lesson to be kind to animals (even if they’re only sculptures!).
I got to my 2:00 appointment early but that was ok – he took me right in. They let me put my bike in the back of the shop then I went upstairs and got my tattoo re-coloured. I’ve wanted to have it done for a long time now, and finally just went ahead and did it. When I originally got the tattoo many years ago (in Amsterdam on my backpacking trip) I had wanted it to be more colourful but it was starting to hurt so we decided at the time to just leave it as it was with the wings being flesh-toned instead of bright goldish-yellow.
After the tattoo was finished I rode along the river for a bit to where the canal empties into it – it’s so pleasant along there with a lovely path and lots of benches, etc, as well as more giraffes. The canal ride home was so nice – I’m really going to miss it.
The last couple of Tour stages were excellent – although I have to say ‘f***ing fans and f***ing motos’! I don’t care if someone doesn’t like Froome – neither do I – but they shouldn’t be throwing things at him or trying to hit him. And Nibali was taken out yesterday with a broken vertebrae in his back because of a collision with either a moto or a fan in the middle of a cloud of coloured smoke – he managed to finish the stage but was taken to hospital by ambulance at the end.
On Saturday I spent a bit of time washing sheets and vacuuming, etc, then treated myself to fish and chips for dinner at the pub. It was a lovely evening – not too hot, but not rainy either. Lots of people outside at the picnic tables – kids running around, dogs lolling about – a very nice atmosphere. Took a little ride around the nearby trails before heading home.
The quieter side road went thru Flyford Flavell and on past Radford. There was a turn-off south that had a nice bench on the corner so I stopped for a minute. I heard some voices coming from the east, and then a large group of walkers started to appear from around the hedge – there must have been about 20 of them in all.
At one farm along the road there was a little booth that had eggs in cartons of 6 with a sign that indicated they were 1 pound each – the honour system still works in some places. The place next-door had a ‘cattery’ – not sure what that is.
As we chatted we were walking to his property, which was across the road. It’s a large estate with a very old ‘manor house’ and the church off to one side. He told me to go ahead and lean my bike up on a nearby tree and cut across the lawn to the church gate.
He noticed that the lights inside the church were on and said that there may or may not be anyone inside, but if it was open I could go on in. Just as I was about to walk over he mentioned that the church was involved in the ‘gunpowder plot’.
There was someone inside – a lady that was doing a little cleaning. She also mentioned the gunpowder plot, then said she was leaving, and asked if I could please turn off the lights and shut the door when I left. She also mentioned that the church picnic is on Saturday afternoon and I was welcome to join them if I wish.
I spent a little while inside – there are some very old-looking stained glass windows as well as large stone inscriptions. It was very peaceful and quiet, although the whole place could use a bit of airing out, as it smelled pretty musty.
I knew my way home from there so ignored the GPS and headed for the canal.
I got home in time to watch most of the day’s Tour – very exciting day, ending on La Rosiere, where Colin and I had seen a day of the Criterium. One sad thing, though, is that a lot of the sprinters, including Cavendish, didn’t make the time cut.
Once Philip (Lyn’s husband) returned from his walk on the canal, where he feeds the ducks, he managed to stuff my bike in the back of his car, with Lyn’s direction, then drove me down to Halford’s to get the tube replaced. Their bike repair shop is on the second floor, which seemed a bit odd to me since you have to lug the bike up the stairs, but there was no waiting line or anything. After hefting the bike with full gear up and down stairs in various train stations in Italy last year this seemed like a piece cake.
The next day I rode to the pub to watch the England/Belgium game for 3rd place – it wasn’t nearly as crowded as the other day when England got beaten by Croatia, but there was still a good number of folks there – once again they left disappointed.
This morning I slept in later than I have in ages – being slightly depressed makes me tired, I guess, as does staying up late reading. I really enjoyed watching the day’s stage of the Tour – it had 15 cobble sections and was very difficult. I was very happy with the result, with the exception that Richie Porte had to withdraw – I believe he broke his collarbone when he fell.
I rode back to the bar to watch the World Cup final – not many folks watching the game at all – after sitting on the stairs for Wednesday’s game because it was so crowded I had my pick of tables to watch from. I was kind of cheering for Croatia since they’ve never won before and were the heavy underdogs, but I’m just as happy that France won. I can imagine that the Penalty Bar in Mansle was going crazy.
I rode first to the canal (of course) and left it at Dunhampstead, where I took the road southeast. There’s not much traffic on the road and it’s nice and smooth, and winds past lots of trees and hay fields. There was supposed to be a church at Huddington but I couldn’t find any signs or see any spires so I continued on to Grafton Flyford.
Same as the church at Grafton Flyford this one is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It’s a Victorian successor to an earlier medieval chapel, and has the ‘Bromsgrove Guild’ west rose window which is the memorial to the men of the parish killed in the First Word War.
The cows were several different colours, and there were some really cute babies, as well as some young bulls. Some of them looked at me like they might run over – maybe they thought I had another load of hay for them.
When I reached Himbleton I took a short ride up the wrong hill but then I got my bearings and found the sign down a side lane to the church, which is dedicated to St. Mary Magdeline.
When I went to leave the church I noticed that my front tire was a bit low – it had gone very low several days ago after sitting in the sun for a couple of days when I first got to Worcester, but after pumping it up it seemed ok. As long as I topped it up a bit with air every day I’d had no problem riding on the trails or up/down the canal.
I went down to the pub to watch the England/Croatia game and it was, of course, a very animated atmosphere to begin with. I was pretty happy when France had won their game, and I don’t mind Croatia, but I didn’t feel it would have been safe to cheer for them, so I went with the crowd. As it was so packed I parked myself on the stairs below an older couple to watch – almost a front row seat, as long as I kept my feet out of the way of folks trying to squeeze by to the bar. The festive atmosphere did, however, go downhill somewhat when Croatia scored their first goal, then their second. By the end of the extra time there were people actually crying – one young fellow had his head down on his crossed arms and was just sobbing.
I may have mentioned this before, but I would have been a lot more impressed, no matter who won, if there had been considerably less fake injuries and moaning and groaning on the ground. I compare it to a cycling race – 5 or 6 hours of all-out racing, and someone wipes out – road rash from head to toe and blood everywhere. Does he cry and whine and want a penalty called before he’ll rise? First of all it rarely turns out that he’s actually not hurt at all, and no – he doesn’t grab an ankle and pretend it’s broken – he gets back on his bike, blood and all, and continues riding. Soccer – sorry – football players are complete woosies and it’s quite disgraceful to watch them dive and whine – totally unprofessional. But – once again I digress….maybe next time, England.