Author: sallymckenzieblog

August 2 – Wednesday

Rained off and on during the night – cloudy, windy day out. Had a wonderful salad for breakfast – the avocado I bought yesterday was perfect. Went for a walk to try to find a place with wi-fi – the first pub along the main road didn’t open until 12 so kept walking to the next one, about 1/2 mile further.

They didn’t have wi-fi but I stayed for a glass of Strongbow on tap anyway, because why not? They were playing a tape/cd with a man singing all sorts of cover songs, including ‘Killing me Softly’ and ‘Which way you Going, Billy’, but from a man’s point of view – it was quite funny. An older male customer was whistling along at times – he was actually quite good.

Walked back, stopping at the store on the way, and trying not to aggravate the blister on my heel.

Went to Jane’s place to use her internet – she had little Harrison again, as well as his older brother, who was upstairs most of the time playing a keyboard (not bad for a young fellow). She gave me a ‘gel pad’ for my blister, and repeated that I could come over any time if I need anything at all – she is really a very nice, kind person.

Got caught up with a bit of news etc, then went back to Colin’s. Oh – the bike is now out of the garage, although the tires are completely flat and I left my pump at Colin’s place in France. I’m sure Neil will be over again to fill them but I’m in no rush as I’m not going out again today – I’ve had enough of being outside in the misty drizzle and wind. It does get sunny every now and then, but not for long.
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Finished the book I was reading and started another one. Also did some sudoku puzzles from the puzzle book I picked up at the store earlier – very exciting night ha ha.

August 1 – Tuesday

Got up fairly early, considering how late I’d been up last night. Had a wonderful, hot shower, then set out to get some groceries to see me thru until I can go to the market on Saturday.

Had a good breakfast, then a neighbour came over and introduced herself (and her adorable grandson) – Jane and Harrison. Colin’s next-door-neighbour, Lynn, is the one that minds the place for him when he’s gone, and Jane is next to her. Since Lynn is away until Friday she got ahold of Jane to check and see if I needed anything – Colin sure has nice, caring neighbours!

I told her I was ok for now, and she said she was walking down to town for an appointment in the afternoon and asked if I wanted to go with her – of course I said yes, hoping to find a place that has wi-fi (although Jane did tell me I could come to her place anytime to use theirs). Did yoga for the first time in about a week – I feel very stiff and sore from the rides Neil took me on in Mansle.

The walk was almost all downhill, and at least a couple of miles or more. Jane took me to an ASDA store where she thought I could get free wi-fi in their cafe upstairs. Said goodbye to her and Harrison (who had actually been sleeping in his stroller almost as soon as we had started walking) as they continued on to her appointment. Went into the store and got some saline solution, then headed upstairs to the cafe. Unfortunately you need a cell phone to get their wi-fi code, as the login page automatically calls the cell once you enter your number and phones you with the code – no way to get it with just an ipad.


Walked back home and only took one very small wrong turn, which I realized right away and back-tracked to the correct road. Passed a house with hundreds of gnomes and other little statues that took up the whole front yard – it was hilarious – a veritable gnome-city.
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Back at the house I tried to get thru the gate to the back door, but the large gate key wouldn’t turn from the outside, although it had worked from the inside – again a key problem! I’d left via the front door since June was there waiting with Harrison, and it locks automatically so I hadn’t had to use the gate key when leaving. Not to worry – I climbed on top of the recycling bin that was next to the 6 ft high gate and didn’t even have to hop over – just leaned way down and inserted the key from the inside of the gate.

Discovered a nice big blister on my left heel – I guess I’ve never walked so far in my bike shoes before. Heated up my leftover fish and chips for a late lunch, then picked a book to read, and listened to some of Colin’s cassette tapes. Considered eating outside in the beautiful back courtyard, but it was kind of cloudy and blustery so stayed inside.
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Checked out the garage that Colin keeps the bike in that I’m going to ride – I will need help to get it out as his mini is in the way. Young Neil didn’t end up coming over after work – I assume he worked late or something, but that’s ok since all I really need is help with the bike, and how to turn the heat on if it gets any colder.

July 31 – Monday

Said a quick goodbye to Neil before he left for work as I’l be gone by the time he gets home this afternoon. Did another pack-up, and updated my maps a bit with green highlighter showing where I’d been in Italy.
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Left for the Limoges airport around 1:30 – took just over an hour to get there so I had plenty of time. I’d already ‘checked in’ online, so I went thru security as soon as I could which was 2 hours before my flight. Colin waited to make sure my bags were ok and everything I was taking was acceptable. Set off the metal detector even after removing my shoes – forgot about my moneybelt. Passed both of my bags thru the machine, plus my ipad and liquids – the security guy said that my saline solution was too big – they have a 100 ml limit for any liquids, and they have to be all together in a clear plastic re-sealable bag. I indicated that the container was almost empty and he still said – too big, although he didn’t make me remove it. They did search the bag I had my camera and a bunch of other stuff in, and didn’t like my bike lock. It’s a long cord with a combo lock attached so I had to give that to Colin via a door that another security guy unlocked for me. The bike pedals and tools, however, were ok, so once I was cleared Colin left.

Went thru passport control – he asked when I’d arrived in France and I had to think about it – the last 3 weeks have seemed like months since we’ve seen and done so much, but at the same time it seems like yesterday. I think I guessed right when I said around July 11. He didn’t seem to care how long I’d been in Italy or anywhere else before that, so that’s good to know regarding the stupid 90-day rule.

The waiting room was way too small – just as Colin had said. Another flight before mine was delayed an hour, but finally boarded so I got to sit down. A couple of English men sat beside me and one commented on my Cdn flag – I said it’s so everyone knows that Donald Trump isn’t my fault, ha ha. He thinks the same as everyone else I’ve ever spoke with about it – Trump is a joke everywhere but in his own mind and the minds of his brainless followers and the desperate-for-power Republicans that don’t give a shit about their own people or the rest of the world they’re just so happy to be in power.

My flight was also delayed almost an hour, although we made up some time during the flight. It was cloudy almost the whole way, except that it opened up right before we got to the north coast of France – I could see the coast, the channel, some channel islands, then the English coast and some fields before the clouds closed in again.

Had to fill out a ‘landing pass’ to get thru British security at Bristol and he asked me a bunch of questions about why I was there and how long I’d be staying, but was very nice and no problem getting thru.

Went as quickly as possible to get a shuttle bus to the train station, and ran as fast as I could to print my pre-paid ticket, but was a few minutes too late. The train to Cheltenham, where I need to change to another train, was on another track and I watched as it pulled out – there was no way to get down stairs, over 4 tracks and up again in time. I phoned Colin’s other friend Neil (young Neil, as he’s known to Colin) from a pay phone to let him know I’d be at least 30 or 40 minutes late into Worcester, depending on the train schedules, as he’s supposed to be picking me up.

Got the next train 40 minutes later, but it took an hour to get to Cheltenham. It didn’t actually matter, as those trains only go every 2 hours, so had an hour wait. Asked a train worker if there was a payphone and he said yes – they’re just outside the main entrance. Passed a vending machine and tried to get some chips (hadn’t eaten since noon and I was very hungry) but it kept spitting back my coins. Made sure I was feeding it pence, not cents – yes, right coins, but no go. There was an awesome golden sunset happening, but, very unusually, I didn’t take a photo.

Went outside to find the phone booths – booths were there, but phones weren’t. There were gaping holes where the phones had been ripped out of the booths, but the nearby ATM was intact so I got some more BP (Colin had given me some that he had before I left his place in France). Went back to the train worker and was told there should be a payphone just across from the side exit, so went there. No phone, but did see a pizza place so thought I could get two things done at once – food and phone call. They only sold whole pizzas, so I went next door to a fish and chip place and got some food – they also let me use their phone for free. Called Neil again and told him how late I’d be in – I had told him I’d happily take a cab to Colin’s house from the train station as I knew it wasn’t that far and I had a key. Neil has to work in the morning so thought that would be fine, and he did say he’d come over before work to make sure the water, etc was all working for me.

Finally arrived in Worcester around 10:15 (UK time – 11:15 France time). Considered walking to Colin’s house, but got a cab instead – it wasn’t that far a drive, but would have been pretty far for a walk with two bags and I was getting very tired so I’m glad I got the cab

Found Colin’s house no problem – then tried the key he’d given me. No matter how I wiggled it or which way I turned the handle the key wouldn’t budge. I tried to find a way to the back of the house to try the other door but the high, solid wooden gate was locked. I then tried the neighbour, who has kind of been looking after the place for Colin, but no answer to the doorbell, no lights on, and no car in the driveway. I considered trying to sleep in the courtyard, since Neil would be over around 9 in the am, but didn’t really like the idea, so went to the nearest house that still had lights on.

Rang the bell, and a very nice fellow opened the door – I explained my situation and he very kindly let me in to use the phone to call Neil yet again. It was by this time after 10:30 UK time, but he said he’d be right over. While I was waiting a very cute white and black cat with a bandana around it’s neck came over thru the neighbour’s garden and waited with me while I petted and cuddled him/her (not sure which).

Neil arrived in under 10 minutes and used his key to get in the front door – no problem. He tried my key and it definitely was the wrong key – I was a bit relieved since I would have been so embarrassed if it had worked for him. We went inside and he gave me a back-door key and a gate key so I’ll just come and go thru the back. The house is wonderful, and has a really nice back courtyard with a bench and lots of lovely bushes and flowers.

Neil made sure the water was turned back on and then tried to show me how the tv works but no luck with that – he thinks the satellite is off or something so I told him not to worry as I was tired and if I got bored I’d read a book.

Fairly late night by the time I settled down – after 1 France time.

July 30 – Sunday

Woke in the middle of the night to hear hail on the roof – lightening lit up the room a couple of times, and heard thunder in the distance. Storms are much easier to deal with in a nice snug house instead of a small thin tent!
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Took off for another ride led by Neil – went west this time under very grey skies. Got rained on for the first few minutes, then just hit by the wind at every turn. Visited several big burial mounds from pre-Roman times – each having huge stones in various formations and on its own hill. Very lovely views from the top of the first one.
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Rode for just under two hours – not as many km as yesterday, but we did stop more often and it was a lot more windy. The only time I had to stop this time (other than for sight-seeing) was to take off my rain jacket as I was so hot, despite the wind.
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After lunch Colin and I took the dogs for their daily walk – they were very focused on where they wanted to go and I was surprised when they passed the bar that gives them treats. They led us instead down to the hippodrome where they get off the leash to run. Today there was a cricket game in progress so the dogs only got to run free for a bit – we arrived at ‘half time’ and chatted with one of the home-town batters that Colin had met before. The second half of the game was about to start, so the batter went off to do his bit, and we visited for awhile with a couple of other British men talking about the game, etc before we left for the rest of our walk.
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Stopped at the usual bar on the way home and had a quick drink – doggies finally got their treats.

Colin booked the train from Bristol to Worcester for me so I wouldn’t be stuck for some reason – neither my debit card nor my visa card worked so he had to use his paypal. All I need to do is put any card in the machine at the train station and punch in my confirmation number and it’ll spit out my ticket.

Had a wonderful roast-beef dinner complete with oven-roasted potatoes and carrots, Yorkshire pudding and gravy – all very delicious.

July 29 – Saturday

Got going for a bike ride with Neil at 9:00 sharp – Colin and he had plotted out a route last night while I was in the bath.

Rode out of the village and along the busy road for about 2 km then turned left onto much quieter roads. Had a really great ride through many lovely villages, down and up hills – I only had to stop once, and even then I didn’t get off the bike and continued riding up the hill after a short rest and a drink of water.
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Stopped a few times to take a photo, and went in to one of the larger churches – door was unlocked with a sign to please close it after you left even if it was open we you arrived (we did).


Passed by sunflower and corn fields, cows and grape vines. They have many small groups of wind turbines dotted around. Saw a river crossing that was a boat pulled by a rope from shore to shore.

Coincidentally arrived back at Colin’s at 11:00 sharp – exactly 2 hours, which was not actually planned – just under 32 km covered. Much less than Neil would have done by himself, but not bad for me.

Did a trial-pack of what I plan to take to England to make sure the bags I’m taking will fit into Ryanair’s policies. I’m pretty sure it’ll be ok – I’m borrowing a back-pack and shoulder bag from Colin that won’t include any of my camping gear and it makes a big difference to the size and weight.

Completed the online checkin with Colin’s help – my ipad comes up with different things than his laptop so it was easier for him to do it, and then he printed it for me – it’s not obvious at the start, but if you’re not an EU citizen then you must print your confirmation, not just have it confirmed online. If you show up without what they want it’ll cost you 50 euros more to get them to go online and confirm you.

Walked the dogs down to the pub, then just after we left to take them to the hippodrome for a runaround Neil caught up to us. He stopped at the campground’s. bar while we made the rounds with the dogs, then joined him at the bar for a glass.


Had a really nice BBQ burger dinner and watched the San Sebastian bike race on tv.

July 28 – Friday

Had another slow morning, then walked with the doggies down to Mansle’s market – considerably different than the one yesterday. It was in the village square and there were only 5 or 6 vendors – although what they did sell was really good local produce and stuff, and we got some very nice, fresh veggies for Sunday dinner. Took the little ones for a run at the hippodrome, then strolled back to the village square.


Sat at the pub and had a glass of wine – well, I had wine and Colin had a latte – doggies got their treats from the waitress. Listened as the town hall clock chimed 12 bells at noon, then 12 more at one minute after. Then the nearby church had their go for 12, but they didn’t quite get there, and the 7 that did chime were way out of cadence. Then they got really worked up and chimed no less than 72 times (not that I was counting – but we wondered if they were ever going to stop!).

Walked back to Colin’s, then hopped in his car and motored down to Angouleme to do some shopping.

Got some lipstick (one of my travel essentials!), a new pair of flip-flops – a bit fancier than the last that broke on the Galibier – and some more saline solution for my contacts. The lady in the pharmacy eventually understood what I needed (thanks to Colin’s translating) and went into the back of the store to get a small glass bottle – looks like the right stuff but I’ll have to check the ingredients against my existing solution before I put anything in my eyes.

Also went into the Decathlon store to try to get some new tires for my bike as I’ve already kind of thrashed the ones I have but they didn’t have the right size. Colin says he will take care of it for me while I’m at his house in England.
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Took the doggies for another walk down to the pub for another glass (for me, not the dogs – they got another treat), then went to pick up some fish and chips for dinner. The fish and chip place was a mobile unit parked in the parking lot of a large supermarket – they’re at that location on Thursday’s, and can be found at other spots and markets, etc on other days.

Had another long hot bath and went to bed shortly after – nice easy-going day.

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July 27 – Thursday

Today is the monthly market in the nearby town of Rouillac, so we headed out in the BMW just after 9 under cloudy skies and a light rain. The market is very large and they close down the centre of the town completely.

On the drive there we passed an abbey, and a couple of cognac distilleries – one new and one old (cognac is very big here) as well as the headquarters of the Cognac Growers Association.
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After walking quite a ways and negotiating around all of the cars that were parked on the ‘sidewalk’ – without walking out onto the very busy road – we arrived at the first stalls. They were all chickens, ducks, geese, bunnies and hamsters.

A little further on we came to the bread, cheese, sausages, wine, live eels, all kinds of fish/seafood, even snails and horsemeat (long lineup for that one) – a little something for everyone.


Most of the stalls were local produce or products, but of course a few were just junk.

Tried a couple of pork products that were really tasty and got a few veggies. Returned to the pork place after walking around and bot some pate that we taste-tested, then bot some olives – I’m going to make a greek salad to go with the pate for dinner tonight.

After the market we drove to the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre and sanctuary – there were a bunch of students there doing an archaeological dig in a couple of places. There was also a poster indicating that there will be a play or something at the amphitheatre this Sunday – a bunch more students were cleaning up the hillside for seating as only a few of the original stone seating rows are still intact.


Colin then took me to Villejesus for lunch at La Cagouille (the snail – they’re really big here, and I don’t mean just in size). It’s a restaurant he’s been to many times before and knows the folks there, both the staff and other diners. There’s no menu – the hostess/waitress just tells you what they have today – for starter either ham and fruit (cantaloupe) or greens with cuke and tomatoe – Colin had the first, I chose the second. Then for main course either coq au vin or chicken curry – we both chose the coq au vin, but right after she’d left I kind of wished I’d order the curry.
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The salad was excellent – very fresh with a really nice olive oil dressing. When she picked up our empty plates she said ‘so it was one coq au vin and one chicken curry’? She read my mind! I said yes – that’s what I’d like and was it ever good – chicken was so tender it fell off the bones and it came with rice and lentils which was a delicious combination.

I actually had dessert for once – three choices – creme brulette, chocolate cake with ice-cream or walnut torte with ice-cream. I chose the last one and it was heavenly, although a bit sweet for my usual taste, but the coffee ice-cream cut the sweetness a bit.

We spoke with the chef before we left and told him how wonderful the meal had been – I think he appreciated our comments. He told us about a race on Saturday – the ‘snail race’, where one person runs and their team-mate rides a bike. It starts late, around 5 so we might come watch.
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Got back to Colin’s house and had an online chat with the geek squad about my facetime problem. She couldn’t help and told me I had to contact Apple direct (which is what Dominic emailed to me yesterday). I phoned a toll-free number for England and the lady I spoke with led me through the process of how to change my password while she waited. It worked so I facetimed Dom just after 5 – it was nice to see him.

Decided not to have the pate, etc for dinner as we’re both still stuffed from the excellent lunch we had.

July 26 – Wednesday

Slept in very nicely – quiet house, comfy bed. Rain started – not pouring, but steady. Had a nice lazy day watching British home renovation shows, etc, and got two loads of laundry done, including my filthy, sweaty money-belt – the tag inside said to ‘spot wash with a damp cloth’ but it was way too dirty for that so it got tossed in the machine (came out perfect – just like new). Eventually had to go out to get some food so Colin fired up his BMW and we took the dogs for a ride to the next town, then took the scenic route home along a back road that he says is great for bike riding.
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Passed fields of sunflowers, lush farmland, pretty rivers, folks fishing (for trout, I think). Lovely little villages every few miles


Tried to facetime Dom but suddenly Siri was telling me I needed to setup a facetime ID first – even though I’ve facetimed him at about 100 times since I left home. Went into the facetime icon on my ipad but it told me my password was wrong. Tried to setup a new password but ended up going in a frustrating circle so had to quit trying before I hurled the ipad across the room. Emailed Dom instead, but it’s not the same as speaking with him and being able to see the kitties.

Had a great dinner of baked salmon, nice chats with Colin and Neil – fairly early night after nice easy day.

July 25 – Tuesday

Had some rain during the night, but little wind, thankfully. Everything was still soaked when we were ready to leave, so packed up the tent stuff into a big black plastic garbage bag that then went into my large waterproof bag.

Got going just before 9 – left Jussac heading west, then northwest past Tulle – leaving Cantal department and into Limousin. Continued northwest, then west again to the small town of St. Yrieix-la-Perche where we stopped for lunch.

One thing that’s common to many places, both in Italy and here in France, is that they’re heavily into roundabouts, and lots of them have displays of different things, including beautiful flowers, etc.


Took nice quiet back roads to Rochechouart – there’s a music festival going on and they have posters and musical symbols up everywhere.

Passed a bunch of road re-surfacing – maybe the Tour is coming here next year – ha ha. Left the department of Limousin and went west into the Charente to Colin’s town of Mansle, not far north of the city of Angouleme.
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Colin’s house is wonderful – he showed me a ‘before’ picture and I can hardly believe it’s the same place. Hung my soaked tenting gear up on an outside line to dry, then took doggies for a walk – there’s a nice grass horse track (hippodrome) and cricket field, right next to a beautiful campground managed by a friend of Colin’s.
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He bought me a glass of wine at the campground’s bar, then we walked back up to another bar for another glass. The dogs love the place as they always get treats there. Colin’s friend/roomer Neil joined us after he finished work, then an Australian couple pulled up chairs as well.

Went home and face-timed Dom for the first time in days, then had a wonderful roast chicken-leg and potatoes dinner and more good conversation.

Had my first bath since leaving home. Neil had re-done the bathroom a couple of years ago and I’m the first one – other than the dogs – to use the bathtub. It was very relaxing – nice and deep with a sloped back and everything.

Got to sleep in a real bed – my thin foamy on hard ground is better than nothing, but a bed is much more comfortable.

July 24 – Monday

Had a really good sleep until about 3 when the howling wind and pouring rain woke me up. The rain came and went and I was warm and dry, but the wind was fierce. At times the top poles bent so far that the side of the tent was blowing in and touching me. I had done a good job of pounding in the stakes so the tent wasn’t blown away, but I was very concerned a couple of times that the poles were going to give out and the tent would collapse on me, or else the seams would burst from the power of the wind.

I must say that I’m very impressed with both the design and the construction of my little tent – it held out against the gale, and I fell back into a fitful sleep around 6.

Packed up quickly as the rain clouds were closing in again – the ground cover and the fly are a bit wet from the night’s storm, but got everything put away just as the rain started again in earnest. On the road around 9.

Passed out of the Ardeche and into the Haute-Loire fairly early – saw the very beginnings of the River Loire where it’s really just a very small creek. Not very far later we passed over the river again – much, much bigger now.
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And there are Tour displays everywhere around this area as there was a finish, a rest day, and a start at Le Puy-en-valey.



Went northwest, then southwest to the city of Aurillac, then tried to get to a small campsite Colin knew of just north of the city in the village Jussac. Took a couple of wrong turns and backtracked once or twice, but between the two of us with our good sense of direction and his very detailed map book we found it.

Campsite was closed for lunch, but that was ok – parked the van (used their loo) and took the doggies for a little walk, and then let them run free in the football (soccer) field next door. They are so cute when they run – Mo especially, as she almost hops rather than runs when the grass is a little long. The campsite is really nice – surrounded by a creek that splits right around it, so almost an island.

Checked in when they reopened after lunch (at 3:30!) and set my tent up as the clouds were looking grey. Had a really nice hot shower, then went for a longer walk further than the football field. There are tennis courts, as well as an outdoor theatre that was setup for a play – they had a bunch of little medieval-looking houses and other buildings all ready to go.
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There was also a marsh with an old, now closed, wooden path and sign-boards telling about the various insects and plants.


Got back to the van and we took the dogs for a walk into the village, intending to maybe get a drink and a small bite to eat. Nothing was open – either too late for lunch, too early for dinner, or closed because it’s Monday – typical of a village in France, I guess.

Went back to camp and made our own dinners – I had the last of my dried soup packets that I bot in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Colin had fried eggs and bacon.