Started my climb up to the Fortress around 9:40, although I stopped at a cemetery on the ‘main’ road of Blagaj on the way. There’s a memorial to all of the local folks that lost their lives in the civil war between 1991 and 1995 – their names and year of birth in alphabetical order under year of death. Some as young as 18, and some in their sixties – what a sad, sad waste. The single actual serious moment of my trip so far.

The road to the Fortress winds around the back of the mountain from Blagaj – it’s a good thing Nedzad gave me details about which trail to take once the pavement ends and you leave the road. The first ‘trail’ you notice is very well defined, and goes basically straight up – you’d have to be a mountain goat to make it (apparently it was made for moving equipment or something when some kind of repairs were done awhile ago). The real trail was a bit of a long climb, a very narrow, rocky path full of switchbacks that you wouldn’t want to go off the edge of. I didn’t know I could sweat that much – it was dripping off my fingers – good thing I left before it got hot!

The climb was worth it in terms of views of the valley – Blagaj, Buno River – you could even see Mostar in the distance.

The walk back down was much easier and quicker, although I really had to watch my step.

Got back to camp just before noon, tired, sweaty and hungry – at least I brought enough water for the walk. Happy to read the UK election results – ha ha Theresa May! Still don’t know what’s going to happen after the BC election – really hope Christie Clark doesn’t get to form the next government.

Bit of a lazy afternoon, then took myself out to dinner at the bar (Goldfish) across the river that’s showing the football game tonight. Had a nice grilled chicken salad with fries on the side, while watching Nadal thump Thiem at the French Open (at least I assume he won – one of the locals got the remote from the server and changed channel to the Bosnia and Herzegovina against Greece pre-game show). The Americans, Lynn and John, joined me when the game started.

Had a nice time chatting while watching the game – John left early but Lynn stayed. A new Dutch couple from the campground also came over for a bit. Game ended in a tie with no over-time to break it – apparently it’s not an elimination game so each team got 1 point and will play someone else in a few weeks.

Lynn and John have hired a guide to take them to the Green Cave tomorrow afternoon and have invited me to join them – should be interesting.

Swiss couple in the smelly jeep left around 7:30 – got up right after they’d gone (kind of late for me). Had breakfast, then hit the road on my bike before 9:30. Got some $ from an ATM at the post office – figured from my experiences in Croatia that not many places would have change for the large bills it spit out, so went inside the PO and got smaller denominations.

Rode along nice quiet roads towards the town of Buna – only took one wrong turn and flagged down a nice lady in a car that said ‘Buna? – follow me’. She didn’t drive that fast, but there were very stong head-and-cross winds for me to contend with. She stopped to wait for me at the turn-off to Buna (which was not marked) then continued on her way.

The road was narrow but very quiet – very nice riding. Met the M17 highway from Mostar, and crossed it trying to find the bridge across the river Neretva – took a little side trip and had to turn back as all the small roads dead-ended. Ended up on the M17, but only for about 1 km, then found the bridge across.

The cross-winds were really strong – the bridge is right where the Buna river empties into the Neretva. There’s kind of a small delta, and the Buna falls several meters into the Neretva – very pretty, but kind of scary on the bridge with the very strong winds.

On the other side of the bridge I found the Ciro cycling trail that runs from Mostar to Dubrovnik. At this point it’s not just for cycling, but cars were few and far between. Went south for a bit, then saw a skinny stray dog that was limping. Decided to turn around as he didn’t look too friendly and I didn’t want to get chased. Went a couple of km the other way past the bridge to see if there was any other crossing, but there wasn’t.

Headed back to camp before the sun gets any hotter (still taking care of my arms). Looked into campgrounds along the cycling route, although I’m not sure where I would end up. If I went all the way to Dubrovnik I could probably get a bus there, but my experience with getting my bike on buses here has not been pleasant. Also the trip would take me a few days and there’s only one campground I could find along the route – I’ll have to do more research online.

Back at camp for lunch – hot sunny day so staying in the shade. Met four very nice Americans this afternoon – two young guys that were friends of Nedzed’s daughter and are visiting the area for a month (have relatives here), and later a couple that bought a used van in the Netherlands and are on a 1 year trip to Europe and Asia (he’s on a sabbatical from his work). Politics, of course, came up (Comey is testifying today), and I’m not alone in my opinions. At least the more intelligent Americans seem to agree – Trump is a f-ing idiot and a scary threat to the environment and the world.

Had a nice visit with Lynn (the American) and showed her on the online map how to get to the Ciro route to Mostar. They will be here for a few days so will be able to chat with her and John (her hubby) more.

Motorcycle guys were packed up and gone by 6:40 – they were very quiet but I was awake. Oh – black tea was actually black tea! Got an early start riding so I can be back before it gets too hot. I had found yesterday online what was supposed to be a traffic-free cycling path between Mostar and Dubrovnik along an unused rail-line, and it passes thru Blagaj. It looked on the map like roads, and sure enough at least this part of it is.

I rode around Blagaj and followed the map I’d been given at the camp, and saw the ‘Eco Centre’, which was kind of funny. There was supposed to be Griffon Vultures, Shepherd Dogs and Donkeys, all of which are supposed to be endangered. I parked the bike and walked up a very steep dirt/rock road and ended up at what looked like someone’s house – there were grape vines and a lot of chickens (that were very excited to see me – likely thought I was going to feed them) but no vultures. There was a nice mural of what looked like an eagle to me on the outside wall, though.

There was a very impressive looking canyon between the mountains right where the vultures were supposed to be.

Walked back down and over to the donkeys, the baby was especially cute. Never did find the shepherd dogs – maybe they got out and scared the griffon vultures away.

Next stop was the springs where the river Buna is born. It is the only source of the river, and the mountain that births it is very steep and high and the springs seem to be inside a grotto. It was quite impressive – the spring is one of the most powerful in Europe, averaging 43,000 litres per second (if I read the info correctly). A very sweet Japanese (I think) girl took my pic on my camera in front of the grotto.

Rode back across the Bridge of Karadjoz-Bey (built in 1570) and up the road looking for the cycling route I’d read about – found it, although at this point, as I thought, it’s a regular road, not a traffic-free cycling trail. Swung by the store on my way back to camp – didn’t have enough Bosnian marks to pay with and they don’t take visa. Luckily I had an emergency 5 euro note in my camera case and that did the trick – they seem to take marks or euros interchangeably here – 1 euro to 2 marks.

Back at camp I showed Nedzad the route of the Ciro trail cycling path online and he went over it with me. The first part from Mostar is on a main road, then a smaller road to Blagaj. From here it’s an even less busy road for awhile, before you have to cross the M17 right after the Buna river meets the Neretva river. Apparently you only are on the M17 a very short distance then cross a bridge to the other side of the bigger river and go along the old railway (now the cycling trail) next to the new railway. I think I’ll ride 10-15 km along it tomorrow just to see how it is, then go a longer distance the next day, using this campsite as my base.

There’s a big and very important football (soccer) match on Friday evening between Bosnia-Herzegovina and Greece to decide which country gets to go on to the 2018 World Cup. They’re going to show it on tv at the cafe across the river, and it will likely be a big event with a large, probably noisy crowd – could be fun, especially if B-H wins.

Did some laundry and hung it to dry. Just finished making my lunch when it started raining. Nedzad ran and put a tarp over the un-covered things at the Dutch girl’s tent and moved their laundry-drying racks full of clothes under the covered area that we get to use. I moved my wet clothes to their racks as well.

The whole time I was eating it just poured, and the river started steaming. Nedzad went out for awhile and told me I was in charge if anyone new arrived while he was gone. Rain stopped after about an hour, and bright sunshine appeared.

Went for a nice walk across the bridge and up the hill from camp – some good views. Came back to make dinner, but the Dutch ladies are using the kitchen. Got an email response from Tauli that was very sweet – had sent her and Heike and Chris emails earlier with pic’s from yesterday morning at Camping Split.

Wi-fi reception here is very good, so before even getting out of my sleeping bag I checked emails, etc. One in particular caught my attention – apparently our landlords back at home have rescinded the lease that we signed right before I left – no reason given, but we have to be out by the end of July. I’m certainly not planning on cutting my trip in half just because things have changed for them, so must leave it up to Dom to find a new place and pack up and move while I’m over here – I’ll likely be in England my then. Cheaper and out of the city might be nice, with room for a proper garden.

Fried some potatoes for breakfast in the kitchen that we get to use. Went for a short walk on the other side of the river, then came back to wash my clothes from yesterday – they were filthy from all the bike wrestling I had to do on the buses.

Left for a ride just after 10 – followed the road across the river until I came to a ‘recreation area’ – big park-like place. They were doing some work – a couple of guys with weed-whackers cutting the grass in a large field, with 3 others raking the cut grass into piles. Also a team at the river with large bull-dozer – looked like they were maybe building a bridge from one side of the park to the other across a stream that flows into the river.

Rode up a side road that passed a small mosque, then the road ended at some houses. The growing season seems to be ahead of that at home – saw rows of cabbages that were gigantic and ready for harvest. Also lots of beans and peppers – looks like a good growing area.

Could see the ‘Herceg Stjepan Kosaca fortress’ on top of a hill just out of town. Apparently the walk up isn’t that long or hard so I might try it tomorrow.

Rode around a bit more on this side of the river – school had just gotten out for lunch so there were kids everywhere. Checked out the campsite I thought I was coming to when I rode in yesterday (they have very similar names and are quite close to each other) but was glad I stopped at the one I’m at. The other one is also right on the river, across from a fish farm – the run-off sounds like a waterfall, but the camp itself just looked like a small field and not as ‘friendly’ as this one. Also, you’d have to go a much longer distance to get anything from a store, etc.

Got some more provisions from the store – another two packets of dried soup, cheese (think it’s sheep cheese, but not really sure), more fresh veggies and some black tea. When I bought tea yesterday I asked if it was ‘black tea’ and the lady said yes – don’t know what it was but when I brewed it this morning it was not black. Looked up black tea today on google-translate so knew what to look for on the box – I’ll see if I chose correctly tomorrow morning when I have some.

There are some trees here that are producing fluff like dandelions do – it’s floating all around in the air and gets into everything – food, drink, tent. The day started out kind of overcast, but is now sunny and getting quite hot (at least in my tent), but there is a breeze. Luckily the campground has a very nice covered area where we can power-up our gadgets and sit at a big table on cushion-covered benches.

Three little kitties came near and likely wanted food – there was an empty dish at the gate into the next yard. When I went to the store later I bought some crunchies for them and asked our host (Nedzad) if it was ok to feed them. He told me all about them – these three belong to his cousin. Two years ago there was a momma cat named Queen Mother who apparently ruled the roost and had one or two litters of little ones each year for 7 or 8 years. She was hit by a car on the road outside the camp in the winter and he took her inside in front of the fire and called the vet but there was nothing that could be done. She was too badly injured and died the next day – he was very sad. Then a few months later there was a kitten crying at the top of the driveway, and when he next cried he was down by the wall to the river. Nedzad went down to make sure he was ok and he was almost lost in the grass. He was, of course, adopted by the campers that were there, and was name Mr. Spit. They had recently introduced mountain climbing as something campers could participate in here, and the company that makes the spikes (?) was named Spit. The kitty was given a box for his home, and it came from the Spit company, so a friend said ‘that must be his name’. Mr. Spit was a camp favourite and 2 new rules were made – don’t step on him, and never move your car until you’ve checked that he’s not under it! He also was hit by a car on the road outside the camp, and his little body was taken away – boo hoo (and I’m not being sarcastic).

Two motorcyclists have arrived, each with a tent, and a car with two more guys in a tent. The place is almost full!

The ‘It’s okay to eat now’ gun went of a short while ago, followed by wailing from the mosque – actually it didn’t sound that bad. They’ve been eating and drinking at the cafe and the restaurant across the river all day, so I’m not sure how many folks here follow those rules. The moon is almost full, so maybe Ramadan is almost over – I’ll have to ask.

Another very early morning – skipped to the loo just after 5, and found little blackie heading for my tent. Fed him most of the canned food, then he came inside the tent and snuggled next to my left knee for over an hour. Fed him the rest of the canned food when I got up and left the rest of the crunchies in several piles on the rock wall for whichever cat wants them. Packed up my stuff and hung the tent and ground cover on my clothesline to air a bit.

Ate breakfast on a picnic table and went to say goodbye to Pascal, Tauli, Heike and Chris. Got all of their email add’s and took a couple of pic’s. Heike repeated that they have an extra bedroom in their apartment in Augsburg, Bavaria, and would love for Tauli or myself to visit. I will keep in touch – you never know.

The showers and dish/laundry sinks here seem to all have different handles – they look the same but you have to turn them this way or that for the hot water, and some are upside down. Plumber must have been drunk when he put them together.

Left the campsite just after 9 – awful ride to Split, but I expected that. Almost got sideswiped by a bus, so ended up pushing my bike through the weeds at the side of the road for awhile. Got back to riding, and witnessed a car crash on the main road into the centre of town. I heard the initial crash up ahead, and saw a small car pushed into oncoming traffic – it caught the back-end of a van that was going thru the intersection. Folks rushed to help an elderly couple out of the one car – I don’t think they were wearing their seatbelts as the old man that was driving was bleeding profusely from his forehead and the woman seemed to be in complete shock, although not visibly bleeding.

Made it to the bus station without too much trouble, but was told by the ticket agent that I’d have to ask the driver if he could take my bike. Waited for the 10:55 bus that ended up being 50 minutes late. A very nice girl (from NZ, judging by the accent) made sure I’d heard the announcement as she knew I couldn’t just leave the bike to go inside to find out where the bus was.

Bus finally arrived, and not that many people got on. The driver agreed that there was room for the bike and told me how much extra it’d. be – 40 kune (about $8), so I rushed to the ATM then inside to get my ticket. There was a lady at the window discussing something with the agent, and I told them ‘my bus is about to leave – it’s waiting for me’ and they were kind enough to get me my ticket before concluding their business. Ran back to the bus – driver was getting impatient (actually had left my bike, fully loaded, leaned against the bus while I rushed for the cash and ticket). He demanded the cash for the bike and the bags and motioned for me to hurry while he opened a door at the back of the bus for my bike. I ripped all the bags off and threw the bike in (no help from mister impatience) and hopped on.

Drove on the road that goes past the campground – much different trip on a bus than a bike! Followed the coast most of the way then turned inland.

Passed a wide valley just before the border that looks very fertile, with canals everywhere.
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At the border they collected everyone’s passports, not just non-European’s. Took almost 1/2 an hour, and when I got mine back there weren’t even any stamps. After about 5-10 minutes of driving we stopped at what look like a very small strip mall or something and quite a few people got off. One lady said ‘if you are going to Mostar you have to change to the other bus here’ – driver didn’t bother saying anything! Me, the Swedish guy in front of me, and the NZ couple in the back made a mad dash to get off, collect our stuff and get to the other bus. Once again no help from the driver with anything. The driver of the other bus, however, was even worse. He looked at me like I was crazy. The open holding bays had one large area and two smaller ones. The large one was full of all the passenger’s luggage, and I had to squish the bike somehow into the two smaller areas, with bars between. The very kind NZ couple helped me out again – together we managed to twist the handlebars and slide the front wheel through the bars so the back wheel wasn’t sticking out. The driver wasn’t impressed, but I was.

Didn’t take that long to arrive in Mostar – got more assistance from NZ couple to get the bike out, and threw my gear together. Got a bit of cash from an ATM, bot a bottle of water from a very nice kiosk lady that spoke English, and also got directions to the town of Blagaj that I’d chosen to check out – 12 km away on very flat road.

Made it out of Mostar ok – road to Blagaj not too bad, although a little narrow. Found the campsite no problem – decent signage for a change. It’s right on the river Buna, and I think it’s just the fellow’s yard that he’s turned into a campsite. Could not be more different than the one in Stobrec, which was huge. This place would hold about 3 or 4 campervans, and maybe 2-3 tents. Across the river from us is a cafe and restaurant – we’re really right in the town (only 3000 people live here).

We have a little kitchen we get to use with a gas stove and fridge. Bot some real food at the store across the bridge, and had hot soup for dinner. Also get to use a small table and chair – no more sitting cross-legged on a mat, at least for now.

It’s Ramadan here (Bosnia Herzegovina is Muslim) and they aren’t supposed to eat between sunrise and sunset. To let everyone know when it’s ok to eat again they let a gun (or fireworks) off at sunset. Luckily there’s a notice about that in the kitchen, so when the blast went off I didn’t panic.

Woken again by cat fight – got up to intervene. Little blackie followed me to my tent – had to chase other bigger one away as it tried to follow and hid under vehicles to try to escape detection. Little one ate as much as I would give him – finally got him calm enough to lie down while I sat on the ground just outside the tent opening. He got up to sniff for the canned food, and I actually got him to come in the tent. He ended up curling up on my left leg and slept for over an hour.

Church bells chimed 5:00 – there’s actually two different churches and they don’t chime at exactly the same time – one just finishes then the other one, from a different direction starts up. Sunday’s special – they don’t wait for any particular time, but have been chiming spontaneously.

Little kitty got up when I did, and was waiting for me when I got out of the shower. He hung around near the picnic table I ate my breakfast on, and I had to chase the bigger cat away again as he slunk up on little one from behind.

Did a bunch of laundry. When I was walking up to the terrace bar for my morning tea I saw the little one on the veranda of one of the cabins eating a dish of canned food. I remarked that I also fed him and he gets picked on by the bigger cat – they said ‘yes, the one with white marks’. I told them I was glad someone else was feeding him too, but they said they’re leaving today, while of course I plan to leave tomorrow. We agreed that he was so cute surely someone else would come to stay and he wouldn’t starve.

Fairly lazy day – had a nice swim followed by a nice shower. Sitting on the terrace researching cycling trails and camping between Mostar (Bosnia) and Blace (Croatia). Not sure where I’ll end up.

A motorbike pulled in near my tent and had French license plates. He was putting up a huge tent so I asked if he needed help. He declined the assistance, but we did chat a bit and agreed to get together for a drink after he’d setup and showered – his name is Pascal. Then another cyclist arrived – and it’s a female, travelling alone! Her name is Tauli and she’s from Brazil, and is a serious rider – loves mountains and flat places bore her (complete opposite of my style!).

Had a nice glass of wine on the terrace bar, then when we got back to the tents the German couple that had been next to me for several days (with their very well-behaved black dog Louie) was helping Tauli string her hammock between two trees. I joined their conversation and we all gabbed for about an hour before heading to bed around 11 or so. Tauli thinks I could ride with her – even up mountains, but I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t enjoy it as much as she would, and I would certainly slow her down – nice thought that she thinks I could do it, though. None of them believed me when I told them how old I am.

Awake before 4 – little early to get up, but churchbells chimed the time. Heard cats fighting – worried that little blackie is getting picked on again by the larger one whose tongue is aways hanging out. Almost got up to find them when they finally stopped – hope little one got away without too many new scratches. Churchbells chimed again at 6 – must have been asleep for the 5 o’clock ones. Six is special, though, as is noon – they don’t just count the hour, they go on and on for about five minutes – don’t know who’s going to church at 6 on a Saturday morning, though.

Got a fairly early start into Split to meet Sue (actually Kathryn – Sue is her middle name). Left some crunchies out in case blackie comes to the tent while I’m gone. Glad I left early – the coast road was longer than I expected, and I ended up off course – glad I have the map from the campground. I’m not sure if it’s market day here, or if it’s always crazy-busy. Folks with stalls selling everything right near the ‘old town’ – bought a white cotton top with long sleeves to protect my arms. Tourist office is inside the walls – tourists and tour guides everywhere – can’t imagine what the summer will be like.

Asked about ferries to the islands, including prices, got directions to a bike shop, and confirmed where Villa Gold is – not very far from each other. Found the bike shop and got some chain lube. Got lost in the little, winding streets trying to find the Villa. Thank god for the map or I’d still be going in circles.

The Villa is right next to a bistro/pizzeria so parked my bike next to the wall and sat at a table that overlooks it. Saw Kathryn and her family arrive and went to greet them – so great to see her, and so far from home! Went back to my tea while they checked in, then Kathy came and sat with me, followed in a bit by Sharon, Sharon’s son and Kate (from Kelowna!). Talking with Kathy was just as easy as it ever was and time flew.

They’ve only got the one afternoon/evening in Split and want to see the old town, etc, and I want to ride around the park at the west end of town, so the visit wasn’t long, but very worthwhile. Said goodbye after 1 1/2 hours or so, then rode to the park.

It kind of reminded me a bit of Stanley Park – very large with beaches, etc. Ended up at the waterfront back in the city, and took the busy road home as far as the turnoff to the back road that I now know. Could see lightening and hear the thunderstorm gathering to the north as I rode – made it back to camp just before the downpour hit. Decided to treat myself to a meal in the restaurant and it was excellent – pasta, kind of like fettuccine but wider noodles, with salmon and shrimp. Powered up the ipad with their electricity while I ate.

By the time I was finished eating the rain had stopped. On my way to the camp’s store heard some cheering and saw some men looking thru a fence at the field next the camp. Lively soccer game happening.

Quiet evening – lots to think about tomorrow about where I really want to go on Monday.

Another early morning – up before 6. Saw a tent that was almost exactly the same as mine – said ‘like your tent’ to the guy that was sitting outside it – as soon as he answered I knew he was either Cdn or American. Turns out he was raised in Canada but is now a Dutch citizen. Chatted for a bit – he and his wife/girlfriend have been to Italy, crossed to Dubrovnik on a ferry, and stayed on a couple of nice islands on the way here. Split is a very big port and has ferries to and from all over the Adriatic. Little other kitty came for a bite – fairly bold fellow as he came right in my tent looking for the canned food.

Got a bike ride in before the heat hit – rode past the next town to see what the road south/east was like – pretty narrow, and busy, so doubt if I’ll go that route unless there’s a bike path I haven’t found yet.

Back at camp the little black kitty showed up again and ate as much as I would give him – looks like he’s been in another fight as more fur is missing near his right hind leg and he has a new scratch.

Had another chat with the Cdn fellow – got the names of the islands they were on, as well as the campground they stayed at that was very nice. Probably going to change my plan again – well, I don’t really have a plan, but that’s part of the plan!

Got my cup of tea on the terrace – the waiter didn’t even asked what I wanted – as soon as he saw me sit down he went to get my tea. He asked where I’m from, and when I said Canada he mentioned that he has an uncle that lives there, in Toronto.

Waited until the heat died down a bit – it actually got somewhat cloudy. Went for another swim and lay on the beach for awhile. The men here seem to like to wear speedos – some folks are just not meant to wear them!

Didn’t get up until just before 7, and was doing a little bit of yoga before eating when Tasis took off on his bike – guess he doesn’t like waiting. That’s ok, though – I needed to do laundry anyway.

Started to feel a bit depressed and sorry for myself – wah, wah – poor me, over here on the Adriatic Sea in Croatia taking it easy when almost everyone I know is back home working…oh wait – not so sorry! Plotting my next move – to another campsite on the other side of Split? Or follow the coast down south for awhile then head east into Bosnia? Would like to try the second option but it’s a lot more difficult riding, and not sure if I can follow smaller, quieter roads to get where I want. When I go into Split on Saturday to meet up with Sue (Kathryn) I’m going to go a bit early so I can ask at the tourist office about cycling paths, etc – they’re supposed to have lots of paths around here and maybe I can get off the busy roads a bit more.

Decided it was time to test out the beach and the water – it gets a lot deeper on one side of peninsula than the other so I tried the deep side. Waited until it wasn’t quite so hot, a little later in the afternoon, and lay in the sun just a bit before going for a swim.

Water was quite nice – a mix of really warm and a bit cold, but very refreshing.

Quiet day, overall – didn’t see little black kitty, but the other small one came by for a bite to eat.

Got up nice and early so I can go for a ride before it gets too hot. Church bells ringing like crazy at 6 am. Little kitty came for breakfast, but only had one portion of crunchies and one portion of fishy stuff before something on the other side of the tent caught his attention.

On the road before 8:30 – the ride was a bit hair-raising – cars here don’t give much room to bikes, and there are no bike lanes. Rode on the sidewalk when possible, but there wasn’t always one – kind of a path at times thru the weeds. Asked a guy near Split where the Roman ruins were and he tried to describe how to get there, then looked it up on his phone for me. Stay on the main road, then veer right towards Solin. Found Solin ok, then asked another guy for more directions – I was pretty close, as the ruins are right in the town, not up on a hill or anything. Ended up taking the wrong road (not much helpful signage). Back-tracked a bit and got on the right road – actually more like a path, not even paved. Found the ruins, and they are quite large. Roman name for the place was Salona, and it overlooks Split.

Left just at the right moment – a bus-load of tourists with a guide had just arrived. Saw the Fortress of Klis on a hill in the distance – might have been nice to go there but didn’t feel like the climb. I was already getting tired and could feel the sun on my arms and legs again. My lower legs are getting dark but upper legs are pasty white above my riding-shorts line.

Made it back to camp ok despite the horribly busy highway – seemed like every second car uses diesel, and the trucks – smelly! Turned off the highway a few km before the campground and took the back road that I’d ridden on Sunday – much more relaxing.

Passed more beautiful beaches – can’t believe the colour of the water in places. Got some money out of the bank machine right outside the office at the campground so I don’t have to keep putting my $2 cup of tea on Visa. Although I now had cash, it was still a bit of an issue when I went to pay for my water and more cat food at the store – it was too large a note for her and I had to use my last 10 kuna note and two 5 kuna coins. Then when I had my tea on the terrace and tried again to use a 200 kuna note it was too large for them also – the waiter had to get change from another customer.

Back at the tent for lunch – little black kitty came, but so did another little one – yet another un-fixed male of course and about the same size as little blackie. Fed them both – they didn’t get hissy until I tried to make them eat from the same dish, so had to put two dishes down for them. When I wouldn’t give them any more food they both left – little blackie actually pissed on my tent on his way by – I’ve been marked as his! Luckily the tent fly is water-proof, and apparently cat piss proof too – it washed off easily with a couple squirts from my water bottle.
Tasis (Greek fellow) came back from a ride and did a little work on my bike – fixed the rattling front fender that was out of its socket and straightend the back rack a bit. He’s going to meet some friends in Split tomorrow morning and has invited me to join him.

Decided it was time to use some of the purple hair colour that i’ve lugged around, so am sitting on a bench outside the showers/WC area with purple dye on my hair. I’m getting a few funny looks, but not as many as I might have expected.

Sun has just gone down below the horizon- still think it’s rising in the west and setting in the east – I’m so mixed up!