Even tho we’re having a ‘day off’ still got up early. Actually woke at 6 but stayed in my tent until 7. Kind of cloudy day, but had a lot of laundry to do. Colin and I pooled our clothes and used the pay-laundry – 5 euros for wash, 5 for dry – you can drink wine here a lot more cheaply than you can do laundry!

Spent a fairly frustrating morning trying to get proper wi-fi access – finally gave up and went for a bike ride into the town of Terme. Got another batch of cortisone cream for my sun-blisters (which are getting better) and rode around a bit.

It’s a very beautiful place with many cobble-stone streets and lots of magnificent views.

 

Got back to camp, face-timed Dom – many ‘screen freezes’ and had to re-connect several times. Had bot a bit more food in the town (well – a few buns, some cherry tomatoes, and – oh – some red wine). Ate a great dinner of tortellini stuffed with gorgonzola, with veggies of all sorts on the side. Tried to plan our route for tomorrow, and where we might stay the night, then park ourselves the next day in prep for Tuesday’s grand climb. Trying to prepare myself for how chilly it might be.

Got up fairly early after a decent sleep. Mosquitos didn’t bother me in the tent but they’re everywhere outside. Packed up, had a nice breakfast, hit the road around 9:45. Going north to Chioggia, then north/west to Trento or thereabouts. Ravenna is quite a bit further north than I thought – our trip through the Apennines was as much north as it was east from Foligno. Countryside here is so different than Umbria – very flat, with lots of lagoons and marshy-looking bits. Also lots of fields in various states of cultivation. The road we’re on is one lane in each direction, quite narrow and very busy. Lots of large trucks, and small cars (all cars here are small). Bypassed most of Padova, then went north – passed thru Cittadella, which has an old part surrounded by very well preserved walls and gates.

Continued north thru Bassano – can now see large mountains looming in the background. Into the mountains on our way north then west to Trento. Very pretty villages perched on the mountainsides every few miles. Sometimes driving next to the river Brenta.

 

Stopped in Trento and ate lunch in the van, then checked Colin’s camping book for a nice place to stay for a night or two. Chose one back the way we came – about 20 km or so, right on Lake Caldonazzo. It started drizzling rain as we left Trento, by the time we got to the campground it was pouring. Decided we didn’t want to stay there – no satellite access, so picked another campground up in the mountains a bit further. Found the place, but no-one was there – office and bar were open, but no folks to let us thru the gate or check us in. Looked for the next site, but the GPS kept trying to send us the wrong way down one-way streets, so headed to the next potential site. Drove a long way uphill on very narrow windy roads. Ended up at a very isolated campground that was so cold I asked if they had a room inside. Originally was told it would be 19 euros, then when I asked to see the room it was suddenly 35 euros. Decided we didn’t like the place so came down the hill to try the ‘no one home’ place again – still no one home. Continued on back to almost the place we started at near the lake. Drove right onto the campsite, bypassing the office by mistake – no barrier, so picked a spot and settled in. Wasn’t even setup yet when someone comes around the van and started speaking to us in French. Turns out he’s also a Brit living in France and he’d seen Colin’s French license plate, and he also is here following the Giro! When he first started speaking in French and we couldn’t respond in kind it was so funny – he realized pretty quickly that Colin was English.

Reminds me a bit of the area around Hope – very high, steep mountains, although as you drive around and thru the passes there is a village every 5km or so – very pretty.

May 18 – Thursday

Getting ready to leave my home away from home – baby goats look like they’re doing really well.

Started packing up the tent just after 9 – took around an hour.

Said goodbye to the Danes – took a nice pic of them with Luisa in the office as they checked out.

Paid up my bill and hit the road in Colin’s van with bike inside (pedals off) about 10:30 or so.

Headed to Revanna, on the other side of the Apennines, and right on the Adriatic coast. Colin noticed a Farmicia just by chance on the road, kind of in the middle of nowhere. Went inside to see if they had something that would help my sun-rash, which looks worse today – almost like welts or pustules. The pharmacist took one look and said ‘oooohhhh – no sun for at least two days’ then went in the back, opened up a drawer and brought back a little box. It was cortisone cream and I’m to use it twice a day to get rid of the horrible looking rash. It does look worse than it feels – at least it’s not painful or itchy, just looks like I’ve got a disease of some kind. Applied the cream immediately and am hopeful that in a couple of days I won’t still look like a leper.

The drive was good – lots of beautiful villages on hillsides – including Assisi not far from Foligno. As we progressed east and the mountains got higher there were fewer villages – just the occasional farm.

As we neared the east coast the mountains suddenly stopped and it was totally flat.

Stopped at a Lidl store near Revanna – German origin but all over Europe. Kind of a cross between Costco and Walmart, but mostly food and produce. Also – wine – cannot believe how cheap it is! Got a cart full of fresh produce plus other essentials – laughed when she told us the total. Would have costed 3 times as much at home.

Went to one campsite but didn’t like it so headed to another one. It’s pretty big and seems like a lot of the folks here are long term/permanent. Got the tent up in a matter of minutes – takes longer to tear down than to put up.

The campsite is very different than Pian di Boccio – no free electric hookup or wi-fi (well – 10 minutes, but that’s nothing) but you don’t have to pay for hot showers. Also, they have a gym and lots of other stuff that we likely won’t use. Only staying here one night anyway.  Minute walk to the Adtriatic Sea – very beautiful.

Up early – bright sunshine, yoga, breakfast on terrace – the usual. At least until I checked on very pregnant momma goat. She had just give birth and baby goat was still wet and lying on the hay. I ran back to the store and told Louisa and Meike who followed me back to the pen. She told me there might be another one coming as momma goat was so huge and had had twins before. Just as I arrived back at the pen a second baby was being dropped! Took a few seconds before it began to breathe, but momma was experienced and knew what to do. Both babies got a good licking. When I checked a little later one of the babies was bleating loudly while it tried to stand up. Momma was calm and didn’t get excited.

Colin and I went on another day-trip. Went back up to Montefalco, which is still all decked out with pink ribbons, bows, flowers and bicycles everywhere from yesterday’s ITT finish. Colin treated me to a wonderful lunch in the shade outside a restaurant on one of the steep, cobbled streets. It was more like three meals for me but I managed to eat it all – very delicious lasagna with mushrooms, asparagus and lots of cheese, followed by veal and a large side salad.

The town has a lookout of sorts that you can see almost the entire valley from – Foligno, Bevagna, all the orchards and vineyards – very beautiful place.

Drove back to Bevagna (via Foligno, just for fun) to get some more food, but everything was closed until 4:00 for lunch. Came back to the campground to watch the end of today’s Giro stage.

Baby goats look stronger every time I go by – standing on their own while momma rests. Colin is mapping out a route to get north – probably taking 3 days, heading north-east to the coast, then north to the mountains. Likely going to get to watch the May 23 stage on the Stelvio Pass – a brutal one! Sitting outside Colin’s campervan, paying attention to one of his cute pups (Ben), drinking a glass of local red wine – what could be better?

Well – the day I came here for has arrived! Starting with bright sunshine and birdies chirping. Had a nice hot shower, did yoga, had breakfast on the terrace. Walked up to where Colin parked his campervan yesterday and got ready for the race. Saw several local cycling clubs ride by, a lot of individual cyclists, as well as a couple of actual racers still practising the route, including Quintana.

Lots of campers and other fans had arrived since yesterday – they were lined up and down the road, with flags and everything. Someone had marked things on the road – WW/108 for Walter Weylandt, who died in the 2011 Giro. Also Scarponi with a heart, for Michele Scarponi who was killed in a crash with a van while training for the Giro a couple of weeks ago.

Festivities started with about a hundred police motos with blue lights flashing, then all of the sponsors vehicles – going at an incredibly fast speed – no treats or freebies from them.

The first racer left Foligno at 12:45 – went past us at about 1:05. It was very sunny, but windy, so not too hot. I’m trying to stay out of the direct sun so my heat-rash (or whatever it is) doesn’t get any worse.

Took lots of pic’s – almost every rider that went by. Each racer is preceeded by a police moto with lights flashing, and followed by a team car and possibly camera moto. Lots of blurred/over exposed/under exposed pic’s, but some ok ones.

(The above is an action shot –  purposely a bit blurred)

Lots of folks congregated and walked past – to and from the church where they were selling coffee and gelatos, etc. Met some nice folks, including a family from Victoria that is in month 11 of a year-long trip – John and his son are on the right in the pic below, and that’s his son again sitting on the hill.

Watched Nibali go by, then the last few, including Dumoulin, who went on to win the ITT by quite a large margin.

Quintana in the pink was, of course, the last to pass us – watched the rest of the race on Colin’s satellite tv.  Headed back to the campsite around 5:45, then met Colin on the terrace to go over our pic’s. Had a bit to eat, heading to bed early.

Got up nice and early so I’d be ready to hit the road with Colin to stake out our spot. Was just finishing breakfast when he and his dogs came up to the bar/store/terrace. Headed past the spot we’d kind of decided on, then went down into Bevagna to pick up some more veggies and prosciutto.

Bevagna from our race-watching site

Back at the site we’d picked there were a couple of dogs on the property across the road, and boy did they like to bark.  Colin moved the van 100 meters or so, which was actually better. We’re just past the top of a small climb, and if we walk just a few meters can see down the hill and to a bend in the road – lots of time to setup shots. It’s right near the ’22 km to go’ marker, not far from the church ‘Madonna delle Grazie’ that I pushed my bike and gear past the day I arrived.

Sat on lawnchairs and ate lunch while dozens and dozens of riders went by. To begin with they were all amateurs, and then the folks that were staying at the campsite. Not sure why I thought they were from Chile, since 6 of the ‘scooter’ riders are Czech, and one is a Fin, but they’re riding the full Giro route a day ahead of the real race, and raising money for a children’s charity.

After a while the real race team cars and riders started coming by and I got some really good shots. The time trial bikes are very different, and with the ‘solid’ back wheel you can hear them coming a mile away – kind of like a very strong wind-whoosing sound.

Montefalco – end of ITT

After about 1:00 it seemed that no more racers would be coming by so I figured it was time to head back to the campground – a 20-25 minute walk.  Many of the roads are decked out in pink.

 

Turnoff to Pian di Boccio, right after Chiesa Madonna delle Grazie.
I got back just in time – it was already thundering and dark clouds had been rolling in. Right after I put my stuff in my tent it started to pour, and the thunder seems almost on top of us. Luckily my tent is now under a shelter, so I’m not getting wet at all.

The storm lasted about 30-40 minutes, and parts of the sky are now getting brighter. Hopefully the weather will be ok for the ITT tomorrow.

The sunburn I got the other day while riding to Bevagna and back (mostly lower arms) has developed into a rash or something – almost looks like hives, or many small insect bites. Doesn’t hurt or itch (much) but looks like I have a disease. Hope it goes away soon.

Ate my dinner at a table outside the bar- face-timed Dom and the babies. Lots of camper-vans checking in – probably to watch the Giro tomorrow. Had a really nice, long conversation with Jan, the Danish fellow Colin and I chatted with after dinner on Saturday, and his girlfriend. Turns out he was in Israel around the same time I was, although he’s about 5 years younger than me. He was on a kibbutz south of Haifa for awhile while I as on the Lebanese/Syrian border.
They were going in to the restaurant for dinner, and I’m heading to bed early so I can leave asap in the a.m. for my viewing spot with Colin. Apparently the church that we are very near will be having food/refreshments during the day while the race is on, and we may see Jan and others from the campground there.

Another beautiful morning in my Umbrian paradise. Had a nice shower – lost a token in the first one I tried, but luckily I had enough time with my one remaining token to wash my hair and get properly rinsed before the hot water ran out on me.

Noticed that there are actually a lot more Chileans here than I thought – there are at least 8 or 9 more tents on another level below the others that I didn’t see last night in the dark. They even have a couple of massage tables setup under a canopy, and one of the vans is black with a big pink map of Italy on the side.

Tested out my solar panel to charge the ipad – seems to work ok but is slower than the electric plug-ins, and a couple of times when I checked the progress it said ‘not charging’ even though the panel was in full sun and still attached to the ipad.  Took a walk around the area below my tent – this place is huge!  If it was full there’d be hundreds of vans and tents.

Went up to Colin’s van for lunch, then watched the end of the Blockhause stage on his satellite tv. Made a major decision change for tomorrow. Instead of going to Foligno for the day we’re going to go to Bevagna to get some more fresh veggies and other food, then stake out our spot for Tuesday’s race. Most of the riders will be out on some part of the course on Monday anyway and we’ll likely see more of them on the road than in the town.

Said goodbye to Roland and Nell in case I don’t see them in the morning – such a nice couple and hope we keep in touch.  They’re headng east to the Adriatic coast, then eventually up to Salsburg.  Hope they have a wonderful trip,

Looks like a beautiful day – sun shining bright at 6:30. Did some laundry, made some tea (loving my cookstove!), had a quick bite to eat, picked up my fresh warm bread from the store – the usual. Headed out with Colin to scout out the ITT route, and so he could pick a spot to park his camper-van Monday night to be ready for the tour to pass.

Road at Madonna della Grazie that the ITT comes up

Ended up in Bevagna where we walked around a bit, stopped for cappuccino (for Colin) and tea (for me) and water (for his little dogs – a hit with the waitress).

Saw a small painting exhibit – all featuring females and bicycles. Picked up some prosciutto from the same shop I’d been in yesterday, and more fresh veggies from the other shop I hit yesterday.

Headed next to Todi, about 40 km (?) and a valley or two over from this one. I’d seen it on one of the Italian cooking/travel shows I watched so much and didn’t think I was going to make it there. Very narrow, rough roads, but made it ok – trying to cycle there would have been a bad decision, but in Colin’s van it was a different story. Todi’s a small town on a hilltop, surrounded by walls.

One of the roads up is so steep trucks and campers aren’t allowed, so took the longer, less steep road. Ended up parking on the side of a road and having a picnic lunch of the food I’d bot in Bevagna, as well as some bread and delicious sheep cheese that Colin had. Climbed on foot to the actual old town, and walked around a bit. If I didn’t live there, and had maybe a glass (or two) of wine I’d be totally lost in all the narrow, winding streets/alleys. Colin had another cappuccino, then we headed back towards ‘home’.

Veared off to the road to Montefalco, where the ITT ends on Tuesday – it’s all decked out with pink flags and displays everywhere – I bet it’s going to be really festive on Tuesday. Couldn’t find a place to park the van, so took a road back down the hill. Ended up taking the ‘scenic’ route back, via Foligno, but was a great drive. I got to see almost this whole valley, plus Todi – a very worthwhile trip.

Had a really nice dinner with Roland, Nell and Colin – good food, good company, good conversation, plus my pork steak was excellent.  Sat on the terrace a bit and finished a glass of wine with Colin – late night, but very enjoyable.

More folks arriving to partake of the Giro – I believe they’re from Chili, and there’s 3 or 4 camper vans and a big tent.  Saw some bikes – maybe I’ll meet them tomorrow.

Woke up super early but didn’t actually get up until after 6. Had a nice hot shower (only used 1 token this time), did some laundry, did some yoga, picked up my fresh bread and some hot tea from the store.

Decided to ride into Bevagna to try to find a proper fuel canister for my stove, and get some more food. Took a bit of a tumble from my bike as I was leaving – couldn’t get my shoe out of the pedal clamp quickly enough when I was stopping just outside the office and fell on my left side. Luckily nothing damaged or hurt, except my ego – there were several people having coffee at a table, and Luisa came running to see if I was ok.

After going up and then down on the little road that connects the campsite to the ‘main’ road’ (the one that the Giro will be on) it was all downhill into the town.

Followed directions they gave me at the campground and found the store they said might be able to help with my fuel canister. Kind of a cross between a hardware store and a home/garden store. Found the canisters myself in a matter of minutes – the clerk didn’t speak English but I had brought my stove with me and she knew exactly what I meant and needed. She opened up the cover and we tried it on – perfect!

Next I rode into the actual town – it’s surrounded by a wall and has big stone gates and is totally beautiful.

Rode around slowly and found a bank machine – luckily there was an option for ‘different language’ (about five of them) or I wouldn’t have know which buttons to push to w/d cash. Next found a cheese/cured meat/wine store and pointed to a block of cheese. Again, the nice lady didn’t speak English, but when I asked ‘is it really strong’ she replied ‘dolce’, which I know means sweet (I figured it must also mean mild or something). Indicated with a gesture how much I wanted, then pointed to some cured meat – not prosciutto, but something ready to eat. She sliced it up for me, then wrapped it in layers of paper like it was the most precious gift.

Just a few doors down I found a fruit/veggie shop. Bot the first fresh produce in days – carrots, cherry tomatoes, salad mix, mushroom – I was actually shocked when he told me how much it was – I had to look at the cash register receipt – only 1.53 euros (about $2.25)!

Rode back to Pian di Boccio – the ride to the turnoff was all uphill, but fairly gradual – I actually made it up the whole way riding, and only stopped to take a couple pics and try to get my odometer working. Finally got the magnet on the spoke to face the receiver on the frame properly and it seems to be working – must have shifted position in transit on the plane because it hasn’t worked since I got here.

Ate an excellent fresh lunch at a table outside the bar – had a nice visit with Roland and Nell. They’re not leaving now until Monday, and the special dinner that the campground is putting on is tomorrow, not tonight.

Just near the showers/menagerie I met a gentleman walking his two little dogs. We started talking about the baby goat, etc, and it turns out he’s from England, although now lives in France. His name is Colin and he’s here for the same reason I am! He’s a former serious amateur cyclist, and travels around in his camper van watching many races and taking photos. He’s been ‘behind the scenes’ and is experienced in the before and after portions of races, as well as how to pick the best spot to watch/photograph from. Monday is the first rest day of the Giro and all of the teams will be spending it in Foligno getting ready for Tuesday’s time trial. Colin has invited me to go with him in his van and experience the atmosphere – it’s going to be great! We can scout out locations on the way back, and be able to watch the ITT from the perfect place. Took some food to his place and had a picnic and watched Giro highlights on his TV.

Got a bit of a later start today – almost 7 before I rose. Not as sunny as yesterday, but doesn’t look like rain. Tried making my own hot water for some herbal tea before the store opens, but couldn’t get the stove to work with the fuel canister I bought the other day. I tested the stove at home before I left but wasn’t allowed to bring the canister with me on the plane – something must be different, although the folks at MEC assured me it would work in Europe. Waited until after 8:30, then picked up my bread for the day – still warm from the oven.

After breakfast decided to tear down my tent, clean off all the mud from the first day’s rain and move to a flatter area – tired of slipping to the right and towards the bottom of the tent. When I brought the fuel canister and my little stove to the store Luisa’s sister-in-law was there – figured out that my stove needs a ‘screw on’ hookup while the canisters here are ‘click on’. Will have to ride into Bevagna and go to the ‘agrismo'(?) store and see if they can help me. Told them I was going to move my tent to a flatter area, then started scouting out potential sites. Hardly anyone here, but most of the ground is on a bit of a slant. OK for the motorhomes, but not so good for the tent.

Hung the clean ground covers on a line, as well as my sleeping bag and silk liner to air out. Didn’t have to disassemble the tent as it’s so light I can carry it in one piece with one hand. Was just trying to decide which spot to move to when grandpa came over and indicated he knew where a good site was. Led me to a really nice covered area, private and with room for both tent and yoga mat. Introduced myself to him (in Italian!) and found out his name is Vincenzo.

View through my tent

Got all setup (not that hard) and did yoga under the oak trees (at least I think they’re oaks). First time since Monday, and can I ever feel it. Sitting cross-legged for hours at a time might be ok for Buddhist monks, but I’m not into it.

It got a bit cloudy and windy – decided to go into Bevagna tomorrow and just hang around camp today. Roland and Nell are leaving on Saturday, and have invited me to have dinner with them tomorrow evening. I think I’ll move to their spot when they leave, as it seems that my new, private area doesn’t get internet access.

Went for a short walk and up to the seating area outside the bar/store where there is internet. It’s nice and quiet here – right near a road, but hardy any traffic.

Pretty tired, but went for a short bike ride – it’s sure hilly around here. The grades on the road that the campground is on are frequently 15% – going down is great, but riding back up is not. Still threatening to storm, but no rain yet. At least my new tent space is covered so everything won’t be getting wet and muddy if it does rain.