I’ve started going for slightly longer rides, mostly to the west/southwest and to some different villages. The terrain is still hilly, but a bit less cultivated, with more forests.
The geese across the way have all disappeared – one day they were there, the next time we looked they were all gone. A bit early for christmas goose, so we’re not sure what’s happened to them.
Henry got another haircut and looks adorable – I think he knows he’s looking quite stylish and seems to have a bit more swagger in his step.
The brits, Janet and John, had a little pool party and dinner last Saturday, and it was just lovely. The pool isn’t heated, but really doesn’t need to be.
Their property is near the top of the hill across from us and has fabulous views of the surrounding hills and medieval village.
We knew some of the other guests already, and also met some new folks. Dinner was ‘BBQ’ and was much more than we expected.
We started with several antipastos, including prosciutto and other cold meats, melon, olives, cheeses, etc., all of which were delicious.
Then there was the main course – various meat skewers, sausages, etc., as well as a lovely salad. After that there was an abundance of delicious looking desserts, but as usual I passed on that course.
It was a very lovely afternoon and evening, and we walked back home fairly late – I think it was around midnight, which was much later than usual for us.
Chairman Meow has lost some weight, which is good since he had become a bit chubby – although we do wonder if we should now get him some worm tablets as it seems that he gets fed by at least two or three people daily so him losing so much weight seems a bit strange.
He’s still very friendly – especially if he thinks you’re going to feed him – but we still need to be wary of his teeth and claws that can come out quickly and unexpectedly.
My longest ride so far has been about 33 km, and today’s foray was supposed to be fairly short. I left a bit late in the morning and stopped at the pharmacy in San Valentino della Collina for a couple of things.
I planned on making a short circuit around to the Conad that has the good butcher, but it turned out not to be such a short way.
I’d used google maps to plan my route and had simply done a screen-shot of the map – no problem! Unfortunately on google maps you can’t always tell the difference between a small paved road, a gravel road, or a goat track – and I ended up on the latter.
After coming to a creek I could see the track continue on the other side, but alas – there was no way to get across so I had to backtrack some distance and go down another track.
Luckily this path went thru to a proper road and I actually knew where I was. A short while later I was in the Conad store asking the butcher for some prosciutto. When I told him it was to go with melon as an antipasto he sent me to the cheese ladies next to him.
After calling for a colleague that spoke english I got what I wanted. I’m experimenting with several new things to serve at a small gathering we hope to host next week. As we weren’t able to properly celebrate Colin’s b-day back in April we’re planning a belated get together.
We left The Poggio and our beautiful view early in the morning the day after the race. Deciding to drive all the way home in one day we took to the peage. As we passed thru – or over – Genova we got to go on the rebuilt viaduct. It only opened four days prior to replace the old one that tragically collapsed two years ago, killing 43 people.
We again took the paege, making our way south to the coast then west along to Santo Stefano al Mare and to a campground that we’ve stayed at before. I can’t say how lovely it was to have a nice hot shower, and on top of that – clean laundry!
There are several resident kittens that quickly became my dear little friends since I just had to feed them – doesn’t make up for how much I miss my own Sly guy back home, but helps a bit.
I had wi-fi for the first time in a week so tried to catch up on emails, etc, and even posted a blog, but it seems to not have worked.
After giving the kitties a large breakfast the next morning we were on our way to the Poggio.
We got a perfect spot in the parking lot above the race course right in a corner overlooking the Sea. (Note about photo: this was taken through a chain-link fence, so the blurry lines are part of the fence, but this was our actual view)
We had a delicious cappuccino at the cafe/bar on the corner, and chatted a bit with one of the older gentlemen we’d met here last year. He asked if we were german – he worked in Germany for two years and speaks a little german, but we managed to have a short conversation with my italian.
Returning to the bar later in the afternoon we had a drink and enjoyed a small complimentary plate of appies before going back to the campervan for a salmon and rice dinner.
It had been a fairly hot day, but the almost constant breeze from the sea helped a bit and my solo walk in the evening was very pleasant.
Race day came with sunshine and blue skies. We’re somewhat surprised that there is only one other campervan in the parking area – it’s been recently resurfaced, which is great, and it is pretty full, but cars, not campers. Last year – end of March, of course – there were dozens of campervans.
We had our cappuccino at a different cafe/bar, then took a little walk around the village before visiting the wine shop – the one with the hoses in the wall – then the other cafe.
There are some other fans here, but nothing like last year, and we’re all pretty good about the face masks and/or distancing, etc. To compare I’ve included a photo from last year taken at a similar time race-wise to this year:
He was very polite and apologetic, but we weren’t allowed to use flashes. Colin re-located further down and around the corner, but I stayed where I was, just around and down a bit from the crest of the Poggio.
The tv heli appeared about five minutes before the first racer – Alaphilippe! – followed closely by Wout van Aert (winner of Strade Bianche).
There were only a few seconds before more and more riders passed – and I finally got a shot of Nibali.
I also got decent shots of Michael Matthews – who had a torn shoulder – as well as Belgian champion Naesen.
After many of the racers had passed I got ready to sneak across the road to watch the end of the race on tv in the bar – just then Colin came up the hill to do the same thing. The Poggio is just 4 km from the finish, and it’s all hairpin turns downhill then a bit of flat road to the end in Sanremo.
Another wonderful race day!
Before leaving Montemagno we took a couple of short walks up and down the road. 
There are several large homes with great views, and most of them have guard dogs, or at least signs for them.
This year’s Milano-Torino is much flatter than most previous years and we’re near one of the few minor climbs.
We parked at a nice wide spot right on the road with a good view below us, as well as along to the town of Grana.
As usual the racers were preceeded by motocops.
There was a breakaway of six riders who passed our spot at 4:24, with about a three minute lead.
The peloton blew by in one single group – I think it’s the fastest race passing I’ve seen yet – first rider in the breakaway to last of all about three minutes total.
There was one single rider a little bit behind who must have had a mechanical or something, then they were gone.
We were able to hit the road very quickly, having little to pack up, and took the paege towards Torino. Because we were on the motorway we managed to bypass the end of the race and made it to Cavour in a couple of hours, stopping in Pinerolo for groceries.
Feeling hungry we decided to go out for dinner – I did remember some of the roads and paths so we were able to make our way easily on foot with the doggies to the town centre. My favourite cafe was closed so we went next to a restaurant that had been recommended to me three years ago, but I’d never actually gone to.
‘Ristorante La Posta’ was worth the three year wait – it was excellent. We had a lovely table outside, surrounded by beautiful flowering shrubs. We started with a shared antipasti of salmon tartare on shredded apple, then for my main course I enjoyed the gnocchi with cheese sauce – very delicious, with enough leftover for tomorrow’s lunch.
La Posta has been in existence since the 1700s and has at least one Michelin star, so it’s not surprising it was so enjoyable.
There was a lovely swimming pool just outside a large, very crowded restaurant. I made use of the free wi-fi for a bit, then had a fairly early night. Thankfully it was a bit cooler than the previous couple of evenings had been.
The next day’s travel was almost across the Apennines to a campground we’d stayed at two years ago just outside the village of Zocca. This time we didn’t have quite as frustrating a time finding it, although the gps was, once again, not totally accurate.
The old dog is still there, but is moving a bit more slowly.
We pre-ordered dinner, and were both very pleased. I think it’s the same chef who was very new to the place two years ago, and they still have a lovely organic garden for many of the meal’s ingredients.
My lasagna was obviously handmade, and was delicious – no meat or tomatoes, but zuchinni and cream sauce – very nice, and just the right amount.
After only one night we were on our way again, this time taking the paege to make better time – although at times we were barely moving because of roadworks and on/off ramp backups at every large city we passed.
When I went to bed Mo was full across my pillow – as I tried to nudge her over she growled and snapped at me! After mollifying her and almost falling asleep we were kept awake by a prolonged lightening and thunder storm.
Before leaving Conzano the next morning we had a nice walk around the village. 
There’s an art exhibit all summer and the artworks are all over the place – it was very different and made for an interesting morning.
We eventually made a wrong turn – the pink arrows weren’t up yet to guide us – and we ended up in Casorzo, where we stopped for a quick snack just outside the town.
It was a rest-stop and had fantastic views, as well as some wall art of fairy tales.
We then made our way to the town of Montemagno, which has a castle – the oldest part is from the 12th century, with major additions in the 13th and 18th centuries.
We walked up and around it, but it was all closed up – it did have, of course, more incredible views.
We parked for the night in a large flat parking lot next to a pasta and sauce making place – Colin popped in and checked with them and they didn’t mind us being there.
We got to see the sun rise – it was a very quiet and beautiful morning.
By the afternoon it was again brutally hot, reaching at least 40 but there was no shade or relief to be had. We put the campervan’s awning out but had to retract it because of the wind.
During the day amateur riders did, as usual, come up the road, and more than one rider and car stopped because of our flags. 
One group of three Italian men that stopped stayed for a bit to chat – they even brought out a bottle of local Chianti that they opened and shared with us. They all live near Rimini and Colin has their phone number so he can call them during the Giro in October and maybe get together.
The race didn’t arrive until almost 5:30, and the dust was flying. I got a pretty good photo of Wout van Aert, who was the eventual winner.
At one point I moved down the road a short way for a different view and 
I was well off the road as the verge was over two feet wide and had just been cut so I shouldn’t have been in any danger. Thankfully death was avoided, but – damn!!
I also got photos of a fairly tired looking Peter Sagan, and a very dusty Michael Woods.
We started packing up as soon as the last racer passed – there wasn’t much to do. We’ll have to sweep a bit later as there’s fine white dust everywhere.
I did manage to snag a nice pink route marking arrow for my collection – it’s now placed in the left-back window.
We followed two sections of the white roads and decided to go back on race day to partway along the longest section, which starts just outside the town of Asciano. 
Having a general idea of where we were going to watch from we went back to the town to a park-for-the-night site and settled for the evening.
The next morning we walked around the town a bit, and had a very nice cappuccino at an outdoor cafe. 
On the way Colin pointed out a building the had lots of windows – but some of them weren’t real, just painted on!
It was a very hot day – I tried to have a nap in the afternoon since my energy was so sapped but only managed to doze a bit. 
We went back into the town in the evening and had dinner – I had the ‘pork plate’ that was five or six different kinds of pork meat, all of which was just delicious.
I did have a bit of assistance from Mo, but managed to do a pretty good job of it.
On Saturday night Antonio had a special dinner down at the bar, and we were asked days before if we’d like to attend. Tables were set up outside all along the street and dozens of people attended
We sat at a table with John and Janet, the brits we’d met first a few months ago. They’ve owned their house here for seven years now and know many of the locals – they also speak fluent italian, and are very friendly and welcoming to us. Also at our table were Aldo and Mario who each have houses near J&J across the ‘valley’ from us.
The dinner was roast pork, which came whole – minus the bones, but including the head.
It was a lovely evening – lots of families, live music, good conversation, and the star of the night, the pork, which was just delicious.
It was a lovely evening all around – I hope there’s another one someday.
The geese across from us are getting bigger – there must be a ‘head goose’ as they always move in a bunch. If you see one, you know the others are all nearby.
One day we were sitting having our morning cappuccino at the bar when a family went by on a vespa – no one wearing a helmet, even the child.
The local fellows have done more work on the previously overgrown land below us – it’s completely cleared and flattened, and we’re a bit curious what’s going to be done with it.
We had a load of firewood delivered by a friend of Antonio’s, and it took us three days to move it all one wheelbarrow at a time from the parking area below us, up the steps and piled neatly in the storage area off the terrace.
We could only manage an hour or so at a time because of the heat, and luckily Angelo helped as well.
I’ve had a couple of really nice rides, but the exciting thing is that we’re leaving tomorrow to see our first race of the season – Strade Bianche! It was the one I came over for so long ago, and was cancelled/delayed the day after I arrived. After that it’s up north for two more – fingers crossed.
A few days ago we were heading home from our morning cappuccino in the bar when we stopped to look into the garden at the end of the post office building. The fellow had been clearing the place up and we peered over the stone wall to see what progress had been made.
Suddenly we saw a movement, albeit a slow one- it was a tortoise! A couple of days later we stopped again, and saw that there were two of them. Then the next day the owner of the garden was there and Colin started chatting with him. The slightly larger tortoise is female, and is 50 years old (!) and the other one is the male and is 30.
There are also a bunch of little ones of various ages – he rounded up three of them to show us, each a year apart in age. He’s got a nice little fence to protect his tomato plants – apparently they are a favourite snack
Another day we were walking down to the bar and when we were descending the 78 steps under the arch we saw that a few of the local fellows were doing some more work, both outside and inside.
We chatted for a bit, then one of them took me inside to show me the little chapel that’s right above the arch.
I also got a better view of the painting under the arch – he indicated that it was six hundred years old!
I went for a very nice ride one morning before it got too hot – the sunflowers are out and many of the fields have been cut, bailed and re-ploughed for a second planting.
We went out one night to try to catch sight, and maybe some photos of the comet, but even though we knew where to look for it we didn’t get a glimpse.
However the hundreds of fireflies flitting around in the bushes along the walk back home made up for it.
We started out by taking the road up behind the village of Mascioni – the one I’d seen the horses on the day before. No horses this time, but it did wind up, around and down until you could see another part of the lake.
We turned the other direction, however, and wound our way generally west, through the town of Montereale, then further on to a more main road. 
After a bit we stopped for a cappuccino and a quick bite to eat in the town of Terme di Cotilia. As soon as I got out of the campervan I said ‘I don’t like it here – it stinks’, and we realized we’d parked right outside the hot springs and it smells like sulphur/rotten eggs.
In the morning the light was excellent – mist rising and birds chirping – very lovely and quiet. 
I walked around a bit and saw a cat, then a little further a couple more. I thought – oh, there are three, no – four.
In the end I counted seven fairly young ones all at the far end of the campground – it looked like more of a permanent place rather than a short-term one.
On our way again we had a fairly easy drive home to Papiano, stopping in Marsciano for groceries along the way. As we passed through the village we stopped at the bar for a drink before even going up to the house. Our welcome by Antonio and some of the ‘regulars’ was so warm and friendly – almost as if we’re ‘home’!
So appropriate – Italy and sunglasses – such is my life right now….sigh!
Sally McKenzie's European Adventures 