Author: sallymckenzieblog

TA Stage 5 – Climb to Sassotetto


After a nice sleep-in we arose after 7:00 – the doggies usually stir well before that so it was nice to get a little more shut-eye.

When I took Mo for her morning walk I was amazed at the lovely golden tones in the light – just a beautiful area, and so peaceful.

We followed the route for about 50 km before turning onto a faster road to the town of Sarnano where we stopped for a delicious cappuccino.

I took a short walk around while Colin finished his coffee – it seems like a lovely place, although as so many towns in the area had been heavily damaged by the quake in 2016.

It’s a town that caters to many things – hiking, biking, skiing and also has thermal baths.

Continuing on our way out of the town, the last 13 km of the day’s stage is all uphill to the finish at Sassotetto – not an easy climb.

We drove all the way to the top, then backtracked a few km to a nice pullout where we stopped, only to find that the satellite dish wasn’t working – oh well.  As I was cooking our lunch of pork sausages and mashed potatoes a car pulled up and the fellows started talking to Colin.  He called me out to interpret and I realized that it was two of the men we’d met at Strade Bianche!  We got to meet their wives and then they were on their way further up towards the summit to watch the race from.

As usual the arrival of the first racer was immediately preceeded by no less than seven motos and two official cars – and the sole rider was Simon Yates.

Michael Woods was about a minute behind, and ended up losing the overall lead, but still placed well at the end.

We ended up with another five bidons at the end of the day, and we even traded a Trek one (we had another) for an Ineos Grenadiers that another fan had gotten.

Trek was what he’d really wanted because Italian hero Nibali rides for them now, so we happily traded, even tho Ineos is our least favourite team.  Their bidons are quite spiffy looking, however, so we’re not disappointed.

Many of the racers zipped back down the mountain on their bikes, even tho we’d seen all of the team buses go up the hill hours earlier.  The sprinters and stragglers were still coming up for almost half an hour, so the down-coming rides had to take care as they were descending extremely fast.

After bringing down the flags we headed down the hill and north to the motorway that took us east to the Adriatic, where we continued north just past Ancona.  Our stop for the night was a large church parking lot in the town of Ostra, which is very near the next day’s route.

TA Stage 4 – near Castelluccio

Up nice and early we headed for Castelluccio to find a spot to watch the next stage from.  The drive was thru very beautiful countryside and we even saw the trees that form the map of Italy on the hillside.

On the flat plain there were folks parked that were landing after para-gliding.  There weren’t any planes taking them up that we could see, so we assume they take off from one on the nearby mountains and catch the updrafts.

We were parked in a fairly large flat area and several team cars joined us to hand out bidons.

Michael Woods, wearing the overall leader’s blue jersey and his team’s distinctive pink helmut was safely near the front of the peloton, along with Nibali.

Since it was a large area near the end of a climb many riders were ditching their bidons – I ended up with my largest haul yet – nine!  I actually don’t know what I’m going to do with them all, but I really enjoy collecting them.

After the race had passed we backtracked to the town of Visso where we turned north and picked up the route for the next day’s stage.  Visso is one of many towns and villages in the area that were severely damaged in the earthquake of 2016.

We followed the route markers until a bit past the town of Tolentino where we pulled into a nice little flat space on the side of the quiet road – good place to spend the night.

TA Stage 3 – near Saturnia, and Horses on the Course!

After waking up before 3:00 I really didn’t get much more sleep, but I always knew what time it was – the local chuch bells in this village don’t considerately turn off at night like many do.

After a bite to eat we proceeded to follow the route for a ways, then found a campground where we could drop our water, etc.  Once that was done we got back onto the route and came across some folks we’d met before.

They are a couple from Belgium that travel in a very large motorhome, complete with a motorbike in a compartment at the back.  They sometimes help a couple of the teams hand out waterbottles, and are especially close with Quickstep.  They offered me some bidons that I hadn’t gotten yet – FDJ and Sunweb – my collection is growing!

We returned to a spot we’d passed earlier – just past a bridge, then two sharp corners at the beginning of a climb.  We were alone in our choice spot until another car joined us, then a couple of team cars pulled in up the road a bit to hand out bidons.

The race passes our spot twice, and as I was testing my shots on the motocops I ran into a problem – the camera’s memory card was full!  I ran back up to the campervan to retrieve my extra card but the damn packaging must be child-proof or something.  I couldn’t rip it open quickly enough so I grabbed my other camera and took the card out of it.

I rushed back down to my spot in time to see the first racers arrive just before 2:15.

I was happily shooting away as the peloton began to pass, then again the camera stopped working – another full card!  I couldn’t believe it.

Of course right then the most unexpected/spectacular thing I’ve yet seen at a race happened – right below me I could see the bridge before the first sharp turn, and what was on the bridge racing along beside the riders but two horses!

They were obviously terrified of the cars, motos and helis but had nowhere to go so they just kept galloping up the road straight towards me.  I have no idea what the riders thought but I was freaked – I ran up to the other man that had parked near us and was grateful when he seemed to know what to do.

He waved his arms to get the horses’ attention just in time to avoid getting stampeded by them.  We have no idea what happened to the poor things but they made it by us with no one getting injured.

By the time the race had passed on the first circuit I’d settled down a bit and managed to cut open my new memory card – so much packaging for such a small thing!

On the second pass it was Cdn Michael Woods in front!  And he managed to hang on and win the stage but not only that he took the overall lead!

We hadn’t put the flags up so it took us little time to get on the road.  Because of where we were, and where we were going next we decided to pop back to Papiano for the night.  Laundry and a shower were both much appreciated.

TA Stage 2 – Canneto

When taking Mo for a walk in the morning I came across an old man that tried to warn me about something.  I understood that there was a danger to the little dog, but didn’t think it was wolf or wild boar – I know the words for those in Italian and this was something different.  I did understand that I should not take Mo into the field, so hustled back to the campervan along the road.

Colin googled dangerous animals in Italy and it’s the porcupine!  They’re usually active at night and tend to sleep in the bushes at the edges of the fields but they can be very fierce, especially when taken by surprise.

After breakfast we went back into Canneto and had a cappuccino, then went for a walk around the older part of the village.  

It was quite lovely with beautiful potted plants and flowers, as well as a couple of fountains and sculptures.

We backtracked about 1 km to find a roadside spot – it was nice and wide as well as flat, although it did get pretty hot.

A breakaway of three riders arrived at 2:57, followed about two minutes later by the entire peloton, and they were moving pretty fast.

I finally spied Froome in one of my photos, and he didn’t look too great – although it’s almost a miracle he can even ride again after his horrific crash at the Dauphine last year. 

Once again I scored some bidons – this time AG2R and Lotto Soudal.

We packed up quickly as we had a slightly longer drive south to our next stop.  A very large bright green grasshopper tried to hitch a ride on our table leg.

We’re still in Toscana (Tuscany) and have been travelling through very beautiful countryside and some lovely villages.  We drove as far south as Poggio Murella, a village on the next day’s route.  We had a nice drink with complimentary appies at a bar and spent the night at a pullout right in the village.

Tirreno-Adriatico Stage 1 – Pitoro climb

Race day dawned sunny and beautiful, but not too hot.  The stage today involves three ‘climbing circuits’ followed by a couple of flat circuits on the plain below us. We’re near the top of the climb, with the first pass expected sometime after one.

Since we had lots of time I took a couple of walks, and found some interesting things.  

There are dozens of abbeys, parishes and churches in this area, and apparently you can walk between most of them – there’s a map just outside this church.

There’s also yet another small shrine on the road just behind us.

As usual on a race day dozens of amateurs do the ride, and as time passed our quiet parking area became jammed packed.

A large tour bus had parked behind us the night before, and was part of a tour group that provided lunch for certain amateurs and fans.

The little water tap near us was well used, with many folks filling up their bidons or just dunking their heads under it.

The folks from the tour bus next to us needed to borrow a lighter to get their cook stove going, and later on they needed to borrow a wine bottle opener. 

The first pass of the racers arrived at 1:25 with a breakaway of four…

…with the peloton arriving en masse about three minutes later.

Almost fourty minutes later the break was down to two riders now with a two minute advantage.  I had moved a bit down the road as all of the team’s helpers were now with us to hand out bidons.  As luck had it one if the riders hucked their empty bottle out right in front of me – Quickstep! – to add to my collection.

For the last pass I moved even further down the road where I finally got a good shot of Nibali but have yet to spot Cavendish.

Back at the campervan our kindness in lending the lighter and corkscrew paid off pretty well – we were gifted with three bottles of wine, three kinds of cold meats and two kinds of lovely cheese – not bad!

We were ready to take off for our next destination in no time, said goodbye to the tour bus fellows and were on our way.  We headed south and stopped at a nice wide place just past the town of Canneto.

Finally Off to Tirreno-Adriatico

One morning I took my longest ride yet – almost 40 km, which isn’t bad for me – to one of the highest points around.


There’s a tower near the top, and you can see down to the next valley, with wonderful views in all directions.

We got going Sunday morning right on time – just after 9:00.  It was a bit of a drive north to where we’d chosen to watch the first stage of Tirreno-Adriatico from so we went most of the way on the peage.

We found the perfect place to park for the night for the following day’s race – right next to a cemetery in a church’s large parking area.  

There’s a war memorial, and also a nice water tap for free use.  

At one side of the church there’s an excellent view of the plain below, and the town of Camiore right in the Sea.

Around dinner time the parking area started to fill up – there was a special service of some kind happening in the church, and folks were very dressed up.

I asked a fellow that was outside with his little girl if it was a ‘matrimonial’ and he said ‘no – baby’ so I realized it was a christening.  The ceremony went on for quite awhile, with the priest doing a lot of talking and praying.

Day Trip to Spoleto, and Sunset from the Ridge

We had a couple of very stormy days, including a severe lightning and thunder display.  Every time we thought the storm was passing the thunder came again from another direction – just rolling around and around the hills.

I ventured a bit further on another ride, taking a gravel road part of the way – it wasn’t too up or down, which was good, and had an interesting shrine part way along.

Every time we go down into the village I look over the stone wall for the tortoises – sometimes I see them, sometimes I don’t.

One day I saw at least six of them, including one of the babies – unfortunately I didn’t get a photo of the little one.

A couple of days ago we took a day-trip to the town of Spoleto.  It’s not really that far from here and was well worth the trip.  

The old town is, of couse, built on a very steep hill, but very fortunately there is a series of escalators that take you right to the fortress at the top.

There’s a well preserved roman bridge, as well as more than one lovely church and other roman ruins.

We’re going to have to make another visit as there was just so much to see – we settled for having burgers for lunch, then headed home.

Later that evening I went up onto the back ridge to try to get some full-moon photos.  

I never did get the moon – there was a bit of a haze – but I did get some decent sunset pics so it wasn’t a total waste of time.

J&J BBQ and a Slimmer Trimmer Chairman Meow

90FD2100-750E-4D84-96A4-7637E870F1C6I’ve started going for slightly longer rides, mostly to the west/southwest and to some different villages. The terrain is still hilly, but a bit less cultivated, with more forests.
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The geese across the way have all disappeared – one day they were there, the next time we looked they were all gone. A bit early for christmas goose, so we’re not sure what’s happened to them.
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Henry got another haircut and looks adorable – I think he knows he’s looking quite stylish and seems to have a bit more swagger in his step.
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The brits, Janet and John, had a little pool party and dinner last Saturday, and it was just lovely. The pool isn’t heated, but really doesn’t need to be.
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Their property is near the top of the hill across from us and has fabulous views of the surrounding hills and medieval village.
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We knew some of the other guests already, and also met some new folks. Dinner was ‘BBQ’ and was much more than we expected.
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We started with several antipastos, including prosciutto and other cold meats, melon, olives, cheeses, etc., all of which were delicious.
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Then there was the main course – various meat skewers, sausages, etc., as well as a lovely salad. After that there was an abundance of delicious looking desserts, but as usual I passed on that course.
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It was a very lovely afternoon and evening, and we walked back home fairly late – I think it was around midnight, which was much later than usual for us.
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Chairman Meow has lost some weight, which is good since he had become a bit chubby – although we do wonder if we should now get him some worm tablets as it seems that he gets fed by at least two or three people daily so him losing so much weight seems a bit strange.
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He’s still very friendly – especially if he thinks you’re going to feed him – but we still need to be wary of his teeth and claws that can come out quickly and unexpectedly.
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My longest ride so far has been about 33 km, and today’s foray was supposed to be fairly short. I left a bit late in the morning and stopped at the pharmacy in San Valentino della Collina for a couple of things.
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I planned on making a short circuit around to the Conad that has the good butcher, but it turned out not to be such a short way.

I’d used google maps to plan my route and had simply done a screen-shot of the map – no problem! Unfortunately on google maps you can’t always tell the difference between a small paved road, a gravel road, or a goat track – and I ended up on the latter.

After coming to a creek I could see the track continue on the other side, but alas – there was no way to get across so I had to backtrack some distance and go down another track.
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Luckily this path went thru to a proper road and I actually knew where I was. A short while later I was in the Conad store asking the butcher for some prosciutto. When I told him it was to go with melon as an antipasto he sent me to the cheese ladies next to him.

After calling for a colleague that spoke english I got what I wanted. I’m experimenting with several new things to serve at a small gathering we hope to host next week. As we weren’t able to properly celebrate Colin’s b-day back in April we’re planning a belated get together.

Another Festa at the Bar, and Louis Vuitton Hiding in the Cellar

FF4160FA-393D-4D75-B01F-A7BBC7C9F047We left The Poggio and our beautiful view early in the morning the day after the race. Deciding to drive all the way home in one day we took to the peage. As we passed thru – or over – Genova we got to go on the rebuilt viaduct. It only opened four days prior to replace the old one that tragically collapsed two years ago, killing 43 people.
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The trip took us past Carrara….
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…as well as Trasimeno…
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…we made good time and arrived safely back to Papiano in late afternoon.
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I’ve been for a few nice rides, the longest of which was 28 km. I finally actually stopped in Olmeto, which I’ve ridden thru many times before – there is a nice shrine as well as a small war memorial outside the church.
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The weather’s been mostly sunny and hot, but we did have a bit of a storm yesterday evening.
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We took a day-trip to Trasimeno, intending to try out the other restaurant in Monte Buono, but they don’t allow dogs, even outside, so we went on to our usual – Il Ristoro – and had a lovely meal under the trees.
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Last Friday Antonio had another dinner at the bar and this one was even more well attended than the pig-roast last month.
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We started with a pasta dish, followed by roast pork in a bun, then roasted corn-on-the cob all washed down, of course, with vino rosso.
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It was especially nice that many of the younger folks attended, and in addition to the live singer the crowd got into the dancing – a good time was had by all.
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A couple of days ago we got the cellar cleared out by some local fellows. As usual we’d asked Antonio if he knew anyone who could do it, and of course he did.

They arrived right around 9 in the morning and it was a good three and a half hours or more work for them. There was so much junk just stuffed in there – old cupboards, bags of crap, loads of old boards, a couple of sinks and a broken sewing machine – years and years of garbage.
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One of the only ‘keepers’ is what seems to be a genuine Louis Vuitton handbag – might be good to tote something in if I’m feeling snobbish.
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The worst part of the cleanout was five barrels that were buried under the layers of boards – turned out they were full of sand. It took a very long time to empty them one wheelbarrow at a time, as they were crumbling at the bottom and couldn’t be moved while full.
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We felt bad, as we hadn’t known about the sand, and offered an additional 50 euros for the extra time and effort – the fellows seemed very appreciative. When they were done they even swept the floor – an excellent job! It would have taken Colin and I forever to clear the space, and we are so grateful to have it done.CDF747DC-D1C9-4614-8057-E23160A09749

Santo Stefano al Mare and….Milano-Sanremo from The Poggio!!

We found out as we left Cavour that we weren’t actually at the Sosta site, but other than the noise no one had bothered us or asked us to move.

F70BDBF1-7A2E-4FE4-9A86-2D640E74B3CCWe again took the paege, making our way south to the coast then west along to Santo Stefano al Mare and to a campground that we’ve stayed at before.  I can’t say how lovely it was to have a nice hot shower, and on top of that – clean laundry!

1634C19F-49FE-4BC6-BB55-E2244986EA8EThere are several resident kittens that quickly became my dear little friends since I just had to feed them – doesn’t make up for how much I miss my own Sly guy back home, but helps a bit.

6C0EC53A-B5EC-4BFC-9359-BEDFFDE280BFI had wi-fi for the first time in a week so tried to catch up on emails, etc, and even posted a blog, but it seems to not have worked.

008862D2-C0CD-405C-AE13-2E0E0A8A09B0After giving the kitties a large breakfast the next morning we were on our way to the Poggio.

F1246B11-EF85-4DE2-8D11-F684E1A0964FWe got a perfect spot in the parking lot above the race course right in a corner overlooking the Sea.  (Note about photo:  this was taken through a chain-link fence, so the blurry lines are part of the fence, but this was our actual view)

55EDE91E-8AF0-4B76-950C-9DD84909CDDB38F7F3C5-66D4-477F-B239-00C2CB18046AWe had a delicious cappuccino at the cafe/bar on the corner, and chatted a bit with one of the older gentlemen we’d met here last year.  He asked if we were german – he worked in Germany for two years and speaks a little german, but we managed to have a short conversation with my italian.

A0532A39-A84A-4D98-A7F9-D4D2CCBF38BDReturning to the bar later in the afternoon we had a drink and enjoyed a small complimentary plate of appies before going back to the campervan for a salmon and rice dinner.

5EF89C63-AE94-4956-AC13-82A1F991B693It had been a fairly hot day, but the almost constant breeze from the sea helped a bit and my solo walk in the evening was very pleasant.

D1858227-9CE7-40F3-ACC1-69471036A9A2Race day came with sunshine and blue skies.  We’re somewhat surprised that there is only one other campervan in the parking area – it’s been recently resurfaced, which is great, and it is pretty full, but cars, not campers.  Last year – end of March, of course – there were dozens of campervans.

61F238F9-0365-4841-85AA-E845981C1F98We had our cappuccino at a different cafe/bar, then took a little walk around the village before visiting the wine shop – the one with the hoses in the wall – then the other cafe.

DF21207F-23CB-4BFA-864E-08B8AD9F4240There are some other fans here, but nothing like last year, and we’re all pretty good about the face masks and/or distancing, etc.  To compare I’ve included a photo from last year taken at a similar time race-wise to this year:

As we were testing our camera angles one of the race cops came down to speak with us about Colin using the flash on his camera.  We tried to explain that it really wouldn’t bother the riders, but he went away and down came a cop that spoke rather good english.

4017018E-9896-445D-B724-16162FDE616DHe was very polite and apologetic, but we weren’t allowed to use flashes.  Colin re-located further down and around the corner, but I stayed where I was, just around and down a bit from the crest of the Poggio.

A06E913E-3E6B-46CD-BC94-ED733EE0551FThe tv heli appeared about five minutes before the first racer – Alaphilippe! – followed closely by Wout van Aert (winner of Strade Bianche).

1A7F35B7-3A39-46C4-B397-1016ECEEAC0750867110-C698-453A-BC45-161A21AB4D10There were only a few seconds before more and more riders passed – and I finally got a shot of Nibali.

82B67A62-9CA3-4F6D-A3E0-EB399E44B8A8I also got decent shots of Michael Matthews – who had a torn shoulder – as well as Belgian champion Naesen.

E9775952-D012-454B-8A62-FE8C72165291B38ED702-D032-4034-B9BD-629C1A1591B4After many of the racers had passed I got ready to sneak across the road to watch the end of the race on tv in the bar – just then Colin came up the hill to do the same thing.  The Poggio is just 4 km from the finish, and it’s all hairpin turns downhill then a bit of flat road to the end in Sanremo.

We got into the bar and cheered loudly along with the other fans – again I noticed the difference from last year when we squished in like sardines, while this year we had elbow room to spare.

The finale was thrilling – a sprint between Alaphilippe and van Aert, with van Aert taking it on the line.  Michael Matthews – with the torn shoulder – came in third.

We ended up waiting quite a while before we were allowed to disperse – one rider, who must have had a mechanical or a fall – had yet to go by.  He got rousing applause and cheers as he passed, then the barriers started to come down.

CE76D7D9-2308-4EE4-8ECE-92C378960264Another wonderful race day!