Up at seven, cup of tea and quick bite to eat, then on the road with Colin. We were headed for the Giro stage that goes today from Assisi to Osimo and were planning on seeing it from somewhere up the Passo di Termine, the first climb of the day. We stopped at the bar in the village for help with the maps and directions, then keyed our destination into the campervan’s GPS.
I tried to follow where we were but lost track – we ended up taking a more southerly route that led us right by Pian di Boccio (the campground where we originally met last year). It looked rather full with many tents that all looked the same – figured it must be a large group of some sort. We certainly took the scenic route to Foligno!
Sailed right past the outskirts of Foligno and into the Appenines heading north. Just a few km past the city we hit a bunch of very slow traffic – seems we were behind some cyclists that had support cars etc. with them. It was very slow going, then we left the main highway to go thru Nocera Umbra, which was where the cyclists were also going. Colin thought they must be wealthy folks that pay big bucks to ride the Giro route and have all the support, including police and ambulance (as well as a black car that looked like a hearse!).
Shortly after we passed thru one of the villages on the route there was no oncomig traffic so we pulled out to pass – they did not like that! We got several very black looks and a couple of shouts thrown our way, then when we were almost past them we were forced to pull back and get behind them again – what a drag. A 5 minute drive took what seemed like an hour. All of the towns and villages along the way were decorated to the nines – it seemed like every bike in each place was covered with pink bows and ribbons and setup on the side of the road.
We were now looking for a place to pull over and watch the race from as we were nearing the top of the pass – the cyclists and their entourage pulled in at the summit, which had a large parking area so we pulled in also and found a great place to park. The German fellow in the campervan next to us told us the the cyclists were riding Pinerollo bikes with motors – wonder now why the one fellow was hanging onto the support van most of the way up the hill.
Had a walk around the area – the summit has a banner and barricades and everything – also lots of police and they just kept coming. There are wonderful views in both directions from the top of the hill across the road from where we’re parked. Someone is flying a beautiful kite – actually it’s tied to a bush and didn’t need anyone to run it as it flew just fine by itself.

Coming back from the walk on the hill I heard a couple of ladies talking and looked at their license plate – it was Italian but they weren’t. I asked where they were from and they both said Canada – I told them where I’m from and they both laughed and said they were from Calgary but one of them has a daughter that lives in Kelowna.
The caravan/cavalcade blew thru at high speed and didn’t throw out any goodies at all, although there were more of them than I remember from last year.
Colin and I each staked out our spots about an hour before the racers came by – I was about 5 or 6 feet from the summit line right under the banner and Colin was a bit further along nearer the bend. I had two very nice older Italian fellows to my right and a man and woman to my left. I made sure I wouldn’t be in the men’s way and that I would have a clear view for taking photos to my left – no problems!
The racers were, as usual, preceeded by a heli in the air and a bunch of police cars and motos on the road. There was at first 2 riders, then a bit later two more, followed by a single rider, then the peloton. They were going at a fair pace since it wasn’t that steep a climb. We could feel the wash of the heli’s rotors it was so close – it seemed very warm compared to the rather chilly air.
I got some really good photos and they’re almost all clear and in-focus. Got decent shots of Dumoulin, Aru, and the Froomester.
Within 5 seconds of the last rider passing the barriers were being torn apart and the parking lot started to empty. We were the only vehicle heading back down the way we’d come – all the other cars and vans followed the way the racers had gone. We passed a few folks walking down and a few more guys on bikes but no other vehicles – it was kind of weird.
Stopped at Leroy & Merlin on the way home and Colin was finally able to pick up the kitchen counter. It was still kind of early so we popped by Poppy’s before going up to the house. Neil was just cleaning up so we walked back down to Poppy’s until he finished up and came down to join us.
Had another roast chicken dinner – this time thighs, followed by early bed.
On our way back down there were two older ladies on the back deck of the church so I waved to them. One of them came over to the gate as I passed so we talked for a bit. I told her Mo’s name, then mine and that I was from Canada. She said Mo was cute and a couple other things I couldn’t quite understand but that was ok.
Back in the village we were going to stop at the other bar but it was closed so, by default we ended up at Poppy’s for a brief time. Back up the hill at home had a late lunch – no Giro today as it’s a rest day.
They finally delivered the pavers after Colin called again and again and finally reached someone who understood that they just had to deliver them today. Colin and Neil were then busy and a guy came around to suss out the air conditioning setup so I took Mo back down to the bar for a while to keep her out of the way.
Colin made some pasta bolognese for dinner that was delicious – headed to bed shortly after. Started reading a ‘Jack Reacher’ book and it’s still hard to think of the character, who’s 6’5” being played by Tom Cruise in at least 2 (or maybe 3) films. He must wear lifts in his shoes and perhaps stand on a small chair.
Watched the first half of today’s Giro, then had to change the channel as usual. Colin was out helping Neil with the courtyard fence while I went with Mo back to the village to get a few things for dinner and watch the end of the stage at Poppy’s bar. When I walked in there were several older men watching a football match – they understood when I asked about the cycling and told me I’d have to wait until half-time which was about 10 or 15 minutes – Perugia was playing and it was a very important match that they just couldn’t miss. I understood about the importance to them – Perugia is the local team and of course they wanted to see the game.
Walked down to the bar with Colin to watch the end of the day’s Giro, then went with him to get some groceries in Marsciano. After that it was up to Perugia to the home supply store to check on the status of what he had ordered. Many things are there for pick up except for the stove hood that will be another week or so. There will be enough other things to keep Neil busy, though.
The wait in Vancouver was a bit long at almost 3 hours, and when they announced that there might not be enough room for all the carry-on luggage I checked my backpack for free – they assured me it would arrive in Rome they same time I would.
The flight to TO was ok – great views of all of the mountains lakes and rivers between the coast and the AB boarder, then nothing but clouds most of the rest of the way. That’s ok – not much to see anyway. Watched a bit of tv, and a really interesting documentary about Hedy Lamarr. It did clear up as we approached TO, and got great views of the city – not nearly as spectacular as Vancouver, however, but then not that many cities are.
Met a couple of Cdns (from Vancouver Island) that were connecting to the same flight with me and they were pretty happy when I told them I knew where the train from Fiumicino into Rome was – we agreed to meet at the baggage area after we landed so they could follow me. The final leg of the journey to Rome was long but uneventful – watched several episodes of Big Bang, and couple of pretty funny movies. Again it was overcast almost the whole way but did clear up as we approached Rome.
Colin arrived and it was just like old times – found a 5 euro note on the ground right in front of the van and took it as a sign of good luck ahead. Loaded my stuff into the van and hit the road for Papiano.
The flight seemed very long – around 9 1/2 hours. They fed us a meal – the lady next to me got the last of the chicken so I got pasta by default – not too bad, although the ‘salad’ of mixed veggies was questionable. After a few more hours they came by again with some heated panini-type things that weren’t too bad – she gave us a veggie one each, then said they had some chicken ones left also so we each got a second one.
My first glimpse of the Lake as we came around the bend on the Connector was beautiful, as usual, despite (or maybe partially because of) the snow. The cold here was almost shocking to me – two days ago I was wearing shorts while walking along the sea. I hope this isn’t what it’s going to be like for the next four months.
Back at the hotel we sat on the outside terrace in the sun, across from the large park. Lots of kids were playing, and I didn’t actually hear any whining or crying – it was all happy sounds.

A lot of the beach is ‘private’ and there are only certain places you can actually access the water at ‘free’ beaches. Passed one cafe that had a bunch of flags on it – at least the maple leaf was right-side up this time as opposed to the one we saw yesterday on the way into town that was hung upside down.
Walked along a ways until we came to a nice little cafe that we chose to stop at for a drink. By now the sun was out and I wished I had put on my shorts. Sat for a bit in the sun, watched the waves hit the shore – couldn’t decide whether the tide was coming in or going out. Planes coming in to land at the airport nearby were basically lined up on the same path every few minutes for awhile, then just stopped – guess the wind direction changed, or else all of the aircraft controllers were gone for a 3 hour lunch like most of the shopkeepers here do (just kidding – maybe they were joining the police for a quick donut break).
Some of the older buildings must have been really something many years ago – I imagine this place was a great weekend getaway for rich folks from Rome.
The route we followed when leaving was mostly on quiet back roads and the countryside was very beautiful – many olive groves in mid-harvest with large green nets at the base of the trees. The first larger place we went thru was Orvieto, where we took the wrong road out and had to back-track a bit. Much of the town is on a high rock cliff that you can see for miles.
Passed several portions of old an Roman aqueduct along the way to the actual seaside at Civitavecchia, which has a harbour for large ferries, etc. We drove south along a secondary highway and eventually passed the airport en route to our destination of Lido di Ostia.
We managed to find a parking space close to the hotel that Colin had booked online, but no one answered the buzzer. There was a phone number so he called it but got no answer, although a few moments later Daniele pulled up in his car. He let us in and showed us the room – one large bed, but it looked like it could be pulled apart into two small ones. We went back downstairs to retrieve the rest of our luggage and the dogs, and when we got back up Daniele said – ‘oh, you wanted two beds, didn’t you – here, take this room instead’. It’s really nice and large with a double bed and a single one, a table and chairs, lots of floor space and a nice tiled bathroom. Outside the room there’s a complete kitchen for our use – fridge, stove, everything.
The hotel is very well located – only a couple of blocks (thru a park) to the sea in one direction, and 3 or 4 blocks to the metro station in the other – it has a shuttle-bus every half hour to the airport which is great – it’ll save Colin having to drive me in for my flight.