On the road to Mont Ventoux right at 9:30. Started passing more and more cyclists going up – stopped a couple of times to cheer them on, then drove towards the top of the mountain. It’s by far the highest peak in the area, with a weather station on top.

There’s a restaurant about 6 km from the top where a lot of folks had stopped for refreshments – Colin saw someone he knew, so took the dogs for a walk while I found (eventually) the WC. I must say that there are so many kinds of toilets, and ways to flush them that it sometimes amazes me. In every country I’ve been in so far there have been: ordinary toilets (with seat), toilets without seat, hole in floor with places for feet. Then there is the method of flushing: choice of two things to press – one small and one large (can figure that one out!), push button on wall, step on button on floor, pull cord from above. But for today’s I had to be a bit of a detective – the flusher was actually the same button as the door locker – when you pushed it to indicate you wanted out, it flushed – a combination lock!

The reason for our foray up the mountain, as well as many of the riders, was a memorial ceremony for a friend of Colin’s who had died on the mountain while competing in a race. Tom Simpson was a Brit (that lived in Belgium) and was only 29 years old, and they’ve built a very nice memorial right were he passed away very near the top of the climb.

We drove to the top and walked around a bit – awesome views in every direction. There was more than one person selling candy of all sorts, another selling cookies and sausages, etc.

Chatted with a few of the cyclists, then drove back down 1 km to the memorial site. There were hundreds of cyclists that made the climb, and even the vehicle traffic came to a stop when the service was going on. There were a few speeches, mostly in Belgian (or Flemish?) but it wasn’t overly sombre – rather seemed happy and perhaps inspiring. Bradley Wiggins had ridden up, but left before the ceremony (probably so he wouldn’t distract folks).

After the ceremony we drove down as far as the restaurant, then turned onto a different road the rest of the way down – heading at first east, then north towards Gap. Partway down we got on one of the roads we had come in on, and followed it to Sault, then north and east to just south of Sedron where we turned north.

Near the end of this road was another gorge, although not as long or high up as the one the other day. At several points there were cars parked at the side of the road – folks were down at the river swimming and having picnics. At one very narrow corner we met a truck coming the other way – we ended up having to back up so he could pass, as he was pulling a small trailer and it was easier for us to manoeuvre back and forth so he could get by. As usual I’m glad I’m not driving!

Made it to Laragne Moteglin where we expected to get onto the E712 highway, but took several wrong turns, then found the road was closed so had to back-track a bit and get onto another highway going north.

Got to Gap, did some shopping and headed further north to just before La Mure – some very beautiful countryside. Passed a bunch of solar panels on a large building then further on a couple of huge wind turbines.

Got to the campground at Valbonnais not long after 7 – it’s very beautiful, surrounded by Alps and has a small lake. Setup camp – I had wanted to put my tent facing west toward the lake, and with the campervan’s awning also facing the lake but the wind was so strong we turned everything around and are now facing east instead.

Colin took me out for pizza for dinner at the restaurant on the lake – I had a Hawaiian which was very good – leftovers for breakfast, too.

Sat outside the office for a bit (where the wi-fi is best) and got caught up on things. Froome, Quintana and Contador all had a bad day, and Aru is now in yellow – we’ll see how long that lasts, or if Froome can come back. Quintana and Contador are likely out of it, although you never know – the race is only half over.

Once again had a very efficient tent tear-down and pack-up, followed by a leisurely breakfast – out of camp by 9:30. Initially headed northeast to Digne Les Bains, where we turned west to Sisteron.

Passed more than one place with ‘les bains’ in it’s name – apparently they have some really great hotsprings in the area. And there’s also a long part of the road that has big trees on both sides – this was the route that Napolean took when he escaped from Elba, and he later had the trees planted so that when his army marched through the area they would be in shade – how considerate of him!

Went west at Sisteron – now in lavender growing country, where both the vistas and the aromas are lovely. Some of the houses have lavender-coloured shutters – it’s a very picturesque area. Turned south just past Montbrun-les-bains toward Sault.

Were supposed to turn west right when we approached Sault, but the bend was way too sharp for the campervan. It was market-day in the town and the traffic – both vehicles and pedestrians – was crazy. We ended up going thru the town and the GPS tried to get us back on the right road but we ended up on a dirt road leading nowhere fast.

Turned around and made our own way – GPS was unhappy with every turn we made (or didn’t make) and we ended up on the ‘Gorges la Nesque’ road. It was gorgeous and very impressive, but I’m sure glad it was Colin driving and not me. There were very short rock tunnels with very low clearances – I thought at times we were in danger of taking the top of the campervan off, but Colin had nerves of steel and we made it in one piece. Had to turn GPS off for a bit as all it was doing was beeping warnings – as if we couldn’t see the low tunnels or extremely dangerous drop-offs. Lots of cyclists going up and down – it seems to be quite a local attraction.

Got to the campsite in Bedoin before 2 – had last night’s leftover pasta for lunch before setting up the tent. Noticed that one of the tent poles is a little cracked at one end – really hope it doesn’t break off as the whole structure would be put out of whack – all of the poles are hooked together with elastic inside and if one’s out they’re all out.

It’s very hot – the campsite we’re at is very basic and doesn’t have any amenities, although there’s a pool right next door that you have to pay to use.

After dinner of stuffed chicken burgers we took the dogs down to the night market. It wasn’t very large but at least most of the stuff looked local and hand-made rather than plastic junk from China. Some really nice jewelry and paintings.

Saw some plaques on the wall of a building on the road to Mont Venteux, including one commemorating Colin’s friend Tom Simpson, whose memorial ride is the event we’re here to see.

Had a glass of wine at a street-side cafe, then a leisurely walk home to camp. Passed a ‘lavage’ that Colin told me used to be where all of the village women came to do their laundry. There were large depressions where the clothes were pressed down against the rock sides – quite interesting. There were rinsing pools and everything – I guess the women would have a good gossip while scrubbing away.

Despite the party at the pool bar last night I did get a fairly good sleep. Got up at 1:15 to visit to loo, and there were people everywhere just leaving the bar to go to bed. We got on the road just when we had planned to – right around 10.

Headed west and crossed into France just after Ventimiglia, then turned north on the outskirts of Nice. Lots of craggy hills and beautiful villages.

Drove north for a bit along a beautiful turquoise lake that ended at St. Andres les Alpes, where we turned west again.

We found our campsite easily in the small town of Berreme. It’s a really nice campsite, and we walked into the village over a pedestrian bridge with the dogs and had a drink. There were so many flies around that we didn’t hang out for long.

Back at the campground I went for a really nice swim in the pool – A German (I think) lady had to help me open the child-proof gate to get in – the instructions, of course, are all in French, and at this point my Italian is actually better, but not overly helpful here.

Had yet another lovely quiet dinner and evening chat with Colin.

After a nice shower, yoga, then breakfast went for a ride down to the village, then east along the cycle path. It went for about 6 1/2 km, including a 1.6 km tunnel, before it ended. Turned around and rode back to Santo Stefano al Mare where I met Colin and the little ones.

Had a cup (pot) of tea, then Colin left to walk back to camp while I stayed a few minutes, then went to a store then rode back up the hill.

Had a quiet afternoon reading after lunch – excellent bunwich of ham and camembert cheese with side salad of fresh veggies.

Kind of lazy day – it’s a rest day for the Tour, so mostly just read and hung out and chatted.

Had a really good sleep, despite the karaoke last night – got up a little late also, despite the church bells.

It was a grey, cloudy morning, and even rained for a few minutes. We decided not to go into the village, or me take a ride today, and stayed ‘home’ and watched the entire day’s Tour. It was a very interesting stage with lots of action – four very steep mountains, but with a flat finish.

There was one very unfortunate and sad crash on the downhill of the last mountain – Richie Porte went a little too far left on one corner, went over the edge then over-corrected and somersaulted right across the road and into the path of Daniel Martin who then also went down. Dan Martin managed to get back up and continue – Richie eventually got taken away in an ambulance. Hope Richie’s ok – one less of my favourites left to cheer for.

Had grilled steak for lunch – we’ve developed a bit of a ‘kitchen routine’. The camper’s kitchen isn’t very large, so I usually first cut up all the fresh veggies and make the salad, then it’s Colin’s turn – he does the cooking part. We usually eat outside at his table and chairs, although today because we were watching the race we ate inside. I actually like to tidy up, so I usually do the dishes.

Had a light dinner, read for a bit – left off the book I was reading ‘How the English Annoyed the French for 1000 years’ (quite interesting and also very funny) and started a new one, as Colin has quite a collection to choose from.

Finally got a little bit of sleep after the karaoke competition ended, then the cat fight started. Got a bit more sleep, then the baby two campers down started howling. Gave up at 7:30.

After breakfast Colin drove us up to Poggio – the village on the small mountain right near the end of the Milano-San Remo race every March. It was a very beautiful village, and the road was narrow and very winding. Right at the end of the downhill portion it meets the main road into San Remo and a km or two later the race to the finish is done.

When in Poggio we had a nice little break at a cafe – one of the older fellows recognized Colin (or maybe his dogs) from when they had been there in March – he sat down and had a chat with us in Italian – he was so sweet.

After my tea, and Colin’s two cappuccinos we went across the street to a wine shop. They have lots of bottles, a couple of big vats, and a wall with five or six hoses coming out of it. Each hose had a sign above it showing what it was and where in Italy the wine came from. We told him we wanted a dry red, so he poured some from one of the hoses out into a small decanter and we each tried a small glass – ended up buying a 5 litre box for 9 euros!

Next went and visited a small park dedicated to the WW1, then further up the hill to a plaza of sorts with chairs, benches and a great view of San Remo. It looks like a very lovely town right on the Med.

On the way back to the campground we stopped and stocked up on food – got more than we probably needed, but at least there’s a fridge in the campervan. Had a lovely lunch under the canopy – cicadas chirping, breeze blowing, eating local fresh produce, drinking local red wine and watching the Tour on satellite tv – such a hard life I’m living right now!

Later in the evening we realized that the karaoke was going to happen again, so strolled down to check out the campground’s nightlife. It was actually fairly crowded – lots of families, in fact it looked like most of the campers were there. It wasn’t really interesting to Colin so we went back to read a bit. When the music started in earnest I decided ‘if you can’t beat them, join them’, so went back with my camera – full moon tonight.

Hung around for a short while, then got bored – the singing sounded better up at my tent. Read for awhile, then actually got to sleep with no problem this time – maybe the boxed wine had a little bit to do with it…

Didn’t sleep too well so got up rather late – 7:45 or so. Had a leisurely breakfast, then walked my bike down the hill to the village of Santa Stefano al Mare with Colin and the dogs. It’s really nice – right on the Med, but not crowded with tourists. It was market day so they had the seaside road closed off for several blocks.

Colin and the doggies stayed in the village to walk around and find a place to have coffee while I went up to the cycle path and headed west for 1/2 hour. The coast is, of course, gorgeous – the water is the most beautiful aqua then deep blue, the flowering bushes are lush and there’s palm trees everywhere.

Met Colin back in the square at the village, then went for a cup of tea. Actually they gave me a whole pot that was about 4 cups in all.

Rode my bike most of the way back up to the campground – the last little bit was the steepest so I got off and pushed the final 100 metres or so.

It’s pretty hot unless you’re in the shade, and there’s a nice breeze at times. Walked down to the pool to check it out – they have nice lounge chairs all around it, but everyone has to wear bathing caps and there’s a lot of folks there that aren’t actually staying at the campground.

The campground is filling up – it’s the weekend, after all, and our area is now full of motorhomes, one’s even from Norway.

Marcel Kittel won another stage – his third of this Tour – photo finish this time.

Had a nice picnic-type dinner outside Colin’s campervan, then a very quiet evening – at least until the karaoke started. I was just nodding off nicely when music down at the pool bar started blaring – it was 11:00. It kept up until almost 1:30 – not the early night and nice long sleep I’d planned.

Woken super early by mama Maya and baby Spreet – in and out of tent, but too cute! Sad to be leaving Cavour in general and this campground in particular – they have been so nice to let me stay for days after they actually closed for the summer. I’ll sure miss the furry ones – they’ve become like little (and big) shadows, following me almost everywhere I go around the campsite.

Got a good fairly early start on our journey south – hit the mountains about half-way there, passing from Piedmont to Liguria. Nice drive, and you can tell you’re near the Mediterranean by the change of vegetation – lots of olives, etc.

I’m on the Italian Riviera! Got to the city of Imperia on the Sea and drove west a bit towards San Remo. The campsite is up a small hill, but has a free shuttle bus to and from ‘the village’ several times a day.

Colin got a picture and story on his phone about the Peter Sagan incident – it may not have been his fault after all, but he’s already left – don’t know what could happen.

Had a nice dinner of lamb chops, then stayed up talking until 10. Finished the John Grisham novel in my tent.

Woken up very early by 3 furry visitors – big dog tried to get in the tent because mama Maya did – he settled for lying down right in front with his head almost inside. Maya curled up right next to me – baby Spreet came in for a quick moment but seems a bit nervous that I’m going to pick him up again.

I am so upset! Peter Sagan has been DQ’d from the Tour, and Mark Cavendish is out with injury from a crash (that was kind of caused by Peter) – both of my favourites out in one horrible incident! Still lots to cheer for but – geez…

Did more laundry – all of my clothes are clean now, which is good since I’m just about out of laundry soap.

Confirmed with the lady of the place that Colin is coming this afternoon and would like to stay one night – ok with her too, so it’s all good.

Went for a cup of tea, and rode a bit less than usual so I could get back in time to open the chain to the campsite for Colin.

Was just sitting to another cup of tea at the restaurant next to the campground when I saw Colin’s van pull up. Ran over and opened the chain so he could pull in, then he joined me back at the restaurant for tea.

I bought his tea for him, so in response he said he’d buy me dinner – quite a deal! Went back just after eight and had another excellent meal – antipasto, primo, secondo. Tried a lemoncello – very sweet but tart at the same time. Very nice evening, but kind of late retiring.

For the first time ever I was actually glad the the church bells ring every hour – saved me from having to roll over and check the time on my ipad – 4 am. The dogs of the neighbourhood were having a yowling contest – started up with the farthest one, then the next and the next, then back again. And Mr. Donkey was also awake, of course. I heard more than one big dog yelping nearby – kept expecting Cujo to visit, but luckily he didn’t.

There’s obviously been mosquitoes in my tent – even inside my sleeping bag – as I have bites on my legs, arms and stomach. I’ve not noticed that many here (mainly flies!) but they’re around and just as annoying as anywhere else.

All of the campground doggies were in attendance while I was doing yoga again, but this time big one was chewing at the end of my yoga mat’s ground cover when little Preet came up – big one snapped and snarled – don’t know if he actually bit little one – but Preet went squeaking away at top speed with mama Maya trying to catch him. I followed, a bit concerned that he’d actually been bitten, but he seemed ok.

Very overcast morning, so ate breakfast in my tent. Got riding at around 9:15 into town – all of the roads into the centre are blocked off – it’s market day! Some really nice looking local produce and stuff, and lots of made-in-China looking junk.

Had the usual cup of tea in the usual cafe, went riding again west then north. Passed a couple of places I’d been before – I’m starting to know my way around a bit, even without the map. Followed some really quiet roads, as well as a couple more cycle-only paths.


Returned to camp, did some laundry, came next-door to the restaurant. They seem surprised – and they’re not the first – when I ask for black tea with milk, but they bring it to me anyway. Was charged 3 euros this time instead of only 2 like I was on Sunday, but I did sit there for about 3 hours using their wi-fi.

Managed to pick up baby Preet – he gave a quick little squawk, then settled down in my arms and had a nice cuddle.