Finally got a little bit of sleep after the karaoke competition ended, then the cat fight started. Got a bit more sleep, then the baby two campers down started howling. Gave up at 7:30.

After breakfast Colin drove us up to Poggio – the village on the small mountain right near the end of the Milano-San Remo race every March. It was a very beautiful village, and the road was narrow and very winding. Right at the end of the downhill portion it meets the main road into San Remo and a km or two later the race to the finish is done.

When in Poggio we had a nice little break at a cafe – one of the older fellows recognized Colin (or maybe his dogs) from when they had been there in March – he sat down and had a chat with us in Italian – he was so sweet.

After my tea, and Colin’s two cappuccinos we went across the street to a wine shop. They have lots of bottles, a couple of big vats, and a wall with five or six hoses coming out of it. Each hose had a sign above it showing what it was and where in Italy the wine came from. We told him we wanted a dry red, so he poured some from one of the hoses out into a small decanter and we each tried a small glass – ended up buying a 5 litre box for 9 euros!

Next went and visited a small park dedicated to the WW1, then further up the hill to a plaza of sorts with chairs, benches and a great view of San Remo. It looks like a very lovely town right on the Med.

On the way back to the campground we stopped and stocked up on food – got more than we probably needed, but at least there’s a fridge in the campervan. Had a lovely lunch under the canopy – cicadas chirping, breeze blowing, eating local fresh produce, drinking local red wine and watching the Tour on satellite tv – such a hard life I’m living right now!

Later in the evening we realized that the karaoke was going to happen again, so strolled down to check out the campground’s nightlife. It was actually fairly crowded – lots of families, in fact it looked like most of the campers were there. It wasn’t really interesting to Colin so we went back to read a bit. When the music started in earnest I decided ‘if you can’t beat them, join them’, so went back with my camera – full moon tonight.

Hung around for a short while, then got bored – the singing sounded better up at my tent. Read for awhile, then actually got to sleep with no problem this time – maybe the boxed wine had a little bit to do with it…

Didn’t sleep too well so got up rather late – 7:45 or so. Had a leisurely breakfast, then walked my bike down the hill to the village of Santa Stefano al Mare with Colin and the dogs. It’s really nice – right on the Med, but not crowded with tourists. It was market day so they had the seaside road closed off for several blocks.

Colin and the doggies stayed in the village to walk around and find a place to have coffee while I went up to the cycle path and headed west for 1/2 hour. The coast is, of course, gorgeous – the water is the most beautiful aqua then deep blue, the flowering bushes are lush and there’s palm trees everywhere.

Met Colin back in the square at the village, then went for a cup of tea. Actually they gave me a whole pot that was about 4 cups in all.

Rode my bike most of the way back up to the campground – the last little bit was the steepest so I got off and pushed the final 100 metres or so.

It’s pretty hot unless you’re in the shade, and there’s a nice breeze at times. Walked down to the pool to check it out – they have nice lounge chairs all around it, but everyone has to wear bathing caps and there’s a lot of folks there that aren’t actually staying at the campground.

The campground is filling up – it’s the weekend, after all, and our area is now full of motorhomes, one’s even from Norway.

Marcel Kittel won another stage – his third of this Tour – photo finish this time.

Had a nice picnic-type dinner outside Colin’s campervan, then a very quiet evening – at least until the karaoke started. I was just nodding off nicely when music down at the pool bar started blaring – it was 11:00. It kept up until almost 1:30 – not the early night and nice long sleep I’d planned.

Woken super early by mama Maya and baby Spreet – in and out of tent, but too cute! Sad to be leaving Cavour in general and this campground in particular – they have been so nice to let me stay for days after they actually closed for the summer. I’ll sure miss the furry ones – they’ve become like little (and big) shadows, following me almost everywhere I go around the campsite.

Got a good fairly early start on our journey south – hit the mountains about half-way there, passing from Piedmont to Liguria. Nice drive, and you can tell you’re near the Mediterranean by the change of vegetation – lots of olives, etc.

I’m on the Italian Riviera! Got to the city of Imperia on the Sea and drove west a bit towards San Remo. The campsite is up a small hill, but has a free shuttle bus to and from ‘the village’ several times a day.

Colin got a picture and story on his phone about the Peter Sagan incident – it may not have been his fault after all, but he’s already left – don’t know what could happen.

Had a nice dinner of lamb chops, then stayed up talking until 10. Finished the John Grisham novel in my tent.

Woken up very early by 3 furry visitors – big dog tried to get in the tent because mama Maya did – he settled for lying down right in front with his head almost inside. Maya curled up right next to me – baby Spreet came in for a quick moment but seems a bit nervous that I’m going to pick him up again.

I am so upset! Peter Sagan has been DQ’d from the Tour, and Mark Cavendish is out with injury from a crash (that was kind of caused by Peter) – both of my favourites out in one horrible incident! Still lots to cheer for but – geez…

Did more laundry – all of my clothes are clean now, which is good since I’m just about out of laundry soap.

Confirmed with the lady of the place that Colin is coming this afternoon and would like to stay one night – ok with her too, so it’s all good.

Went for a cup of tea, and rode a bit less than usual so I could get back in time to open the chain to the campsite for Colin.

Was just sitting to another cup of tea at the restaurant next to the campground when I saw Colin’s van pull up. Ran over and opened the chain so he could pull in, then he joined me back at the restaurant for tea.

I bought his tea for him, so in response he said he’d buy me dinner – quite a deal! Went back just after eight and had another excellent meal – antipasto, primo, secondo. Tried a lemoncello – very sweet but tart at the same time. Very nice evening, but kind of late retiring.

For the first time ever I was actually glad the the church bells ring every hour – saved me from having to roll over and check the time on my ipad – 4 am. The dogs of the neighbourhood were having a yowling contest – started up with the farthest one, then the next and the next, then back again. And Mr. Donkey was also awake, of course. I heard more than one big dog yelping nearby – kept expecting Cujo to visit, but luckily he didn’t.

There’s obviously been mosquitoes in my tent – even inside my sleeping bag – as I have bites on my legs, arms and stomach. I’ve not noticed that many here (mainly flies!) but they’re around and just as annoying as anywhere else.

All of the campground doggies were in attendance while I was doing yoga again, but this time big one was chewing at the end of my yoga mat’s ground cover when little Preet came up – big one snapped and snarled – don’t know if he actually bit little one – but Preet went squeaking away at top speed with mama Maya trying to catch him. I followed, a bit concerned that he’d actually been bitten, but he seemed ok.

Very overcast morning, so ate breakfast in my tent. Got riding at around 9:15 into town – all of the roads into the centre are blocked off – it’s market day! Some really nice looking local produce and stuff, and lots of made-in-China looking junk.

Had the usual cup of tea in the usual cafe, went riding again west then north. Passed a couple of places I’d been before – I’m starting to know my way around a bit, even without the map. Followed some really quiet roads, as well as a couple more cycle-only paths.


Returned to camp, did some laundry, came next-door to the restaurant. They seem surprised – and they’re not the first – when I ask for black tea with milk, but they bring it to me anyway. Was charged 3 euros this time instead of only 2 like I was on Sunday, but I did sit there for about 3 hours using their wi-fi.

Managed to pick up baby Preet – he gave a quick little squawk, then settled down in my arms and had a nice cuddle.

Dogs all came to visit as soon as they heard me stirring. All three tried to get on my yoga mat at the same time and compete for my attention. Big one shed fur all over, then left for a bit, but all returned while I sat on the bench and made, then ate my breakfast. Little one has become very brave and comes around now all on his own without mama Maya.

Stopped at another larger hardware store on my way into town – also do not carry my kind of fuel canister. They had some stoves of the same brand, but wouldn’t work for me. Oh well, Colin will be here in 2 days so I’ll be able to cook again. I miss my hot tea while I do yoga, but it’s a sacrifice I must make – ha ha.

Had just crossed the only traffic light in town when I noticed a large group of folks standing on one side of the road just ahead, and some more on the other side in front of a building – also large bunches of flowers. Figured they were getting ready for a funeral, so took an alternate route to the cafe. A short while later a policeman was stopping traffic on the small side road nearby, and a hearse covered with flowers and followed by the folks came up right past the cafe. There was a prayer playing on a speaker in the car, and all of the followers repeated it together as they walked to the church (that is right behind the fountain that is about 25 feet away from the cafe).

Speaking of the church – they don’t have mosques here like they did in Bosnia and Herzegovina so there’s no wailing from the minaret five times a day, but the church by the fountain rings its bells twice for every hour – 10 rings at 10:00, then another 10 at three minutes past (just in case you missed the first 10?). Also one ring on the half-hour.

Rode a tiny bit west then north from town towards Garzigliana and Osasco – first part was on very quiet roads, even turned to dirt/rocks, but then met a busier road so I turned back.

Wanted to get to a store before mid-day closing at 12:30. Stocked up on a bit more food then went back to camp and coloured my mop-top purple again – got to be ready for the Tour! No frilly tutu, but the hair will be there.

Made my lunch and was just about to start eating when I saw baby dog Preet trotting along with something in his mouth – he was about to make off with my deck of cards! Retrieved the cards, and ate my lunch, then went next door to the restaurant for tea – but they’re closed on Monday’s – rats! The lady inside understood what I asked for, and I understood her telling me they were closed today but would be open tomorrow. No wi-fi anywhere close so rode back into town to the cafe.

The church bell is having a bit of a problem – it’s 4:06 and it’s ringing and ringing – seems stuck upside down at times, and then starts ringing again. And it’s not in tune. Six minutes of clanging and clanging but finally peace – at least until 4:30 then we’ll see.

Facetimed Dom, then left for ‘home’. Stopped at a store to get a bit of wine – asked for ‘rosso vino – local’ and instead of showing me a bottle she showed me two big metal vats – one ‘dolce’ and one ‘secco’ – chose the latter (dry). She indicated that if I had a bottle she would just fill it for me, so I went out to my bike and grabbed my metal water bottle. She weighed it, then gave it a squirt from a vat – not full yet, so another small squirt – 1 euro!

Rode home for dinner – all doggies joined me around my mat. Little ones ate more cheese – big old guy was content to lay nearby. Baby Preet let me pick him up and hold him, then he cuddled contentedly next to my leg – he’s just so sweet!

I’m sure this place is closed for the summer, but the folks are hardly ever here and when they are it never seems like the appropriate moment to converse with them. I think they are just letting me stay here because I arrived in June and they won’t ask me to leave. I hope they’ll let Colin stay on Wednesday if he wants to when he arrives.

Was actually sleeping in a bit until the weed blower started up – 7:45 is rather late for me anyway.

After my usual routine at camp and then at the cafe in Cavour, rode west until the ‘cycle only’ path I’d passed yesterday. Headed north until I came across the river, then turned around south a bit then east on another ‘cycle only’ path – it’s so nice not to have to contend with traffic, although most of the roads I rode on were really very quiet.

Passed lots of farms – orchards, the ever present corn, dairy cows – all very beautiful with the Alps in the background.

Got back to camp after a couple of hours – only rode about 25 km today, but that’s ok. Did laundry, ate lunch – dogs don’t even bark at me any more once they realize it’s me and not some ‘stranger’.

Went next door again and sat outside on their patio and had a cup of tea. Facetimed Dom, drank more tea. Asked what they had for soup today, but it’s far too early for dinner here. The cook did come out and tell the young English-speaking waitress what kind of sandwiches she could make for me though. Ordered the ham and cheese with zucchini, which wasn’t bad. The white cheese was nice and creamy but the ham was processed and the zucchini was a bit on the mushy side. However when you’re sitting on a patio looking over a kiwi orchard towards the Alps, it’s ok.

Very special day – the Tour de France starts today! Oh – yes – also it’s Canada’s 150th Birthday! Although I must say that with many things over here being several hundred (if not thousands) of years old, 150 doesn’t really seem like that much.

Was awake at 6:30 – might as well get up as the menagerie is also awake, and plus it’s a beautiful looking day out – all blue sky except for one fluffy white cloud over one of the northern mountains. Big dog came for a visit while I was doing yoga – got a few dirty footprints on my yoga mat, but didn’t have the heart to shoo him away.

Got on my way into town by 9:15 – went, of course, to my usual cafe by the fountain. It seems to have two names – Caffe Vergnano 1882, and Caffe della Fontana – it is right by the fountain, and on Via Fontana, so not sure which is correct, except that the wi-fi does come up under Fontana.

The propane/butane fuel I got in Bevagna finally ran out, so tried to get some more – bit of a frustrating experience. The fellow at the cafe had a map and marked where we were and where the store was that I could get another canister at – but nope – they didn’t have it. Rode around and asked at least 5 more folks, including at the market, and they all told me to go to the same place that doesn’t have it. Finally gave up and just started riding west.

Took the road to Bibiana – nice quiet road with hardly any traffic. The town is smaller than Cavour, and also didn’t seem to have any store that sold canister fuel. Passed an interesting looking cyclepath (no cars) that went both north and south from the road I was on – was going to follow it but clouds had gathered overhead and suddenly looked threatening. Decided to head back to the cafe rather than going on a longer ride – plus I’m fairly tired and a bit sore from the last couple of days riding. I know that 40 km a day isn’t much, but for ‘little ole me’ it’s quite a bit!

Back at the cafe for another cup of tea, and to eat the lunch I’d brought – facetimed Dom, even though it was only 4 in the morning at home.

Headed back to campground – doggies all waiting. Walked next door to the place I had dinner at with the Germans the other night. Took a bit of a tour around their orchards and gardens – they grow kiwis here!

All of the dogs are now my good friends. Even little one lies down on my ground cover and tries to eat my food. Mama Maya likes cheese, and little Preeta loves tuna.

Walked next door again because there were so many cars going there – wondered if there was a wedding or some other kind of party happening. No – just a regular Saturday night. Sat down at an outside table – hooked up to the internet and waited about an hour for my tea – a nice herbal selection. Can hear some music from somewhere – maybe a bar or something a mile or two away.

Slightly overcast looking this morning, but that can and likely will change. My usual routine – do yoga, eat, ride to Cavour, drink tea at Caffe Vergnano while updating blog and catching up on news, ride for a couple of hours, back to cafe.

I’ve ridden over 37 km today so far – yesterday was 43 in all. Made it east to a little past Villa Franca on very small back roads, then returned to Cavour on main roads, after taking a little detour north towards Vigone. It started to rain a bit at one point, but I didn’t have to stop and put on my jacket.

It’s very rural around here – lots of orchards, and corn-fields – some of the corn is at least 8 or 9 feet tall. Also dairy farms – you can tell when you’re getting near one as they have their own special ‘aroma’.

Got back to the cafe and didn’t even have to ask for wi-fi – as soon as the waiter saw me he said ‘I’ll get the wi-fi on for you’. I sat outside for quite a while (eating the lunch I’d brought) before I realized he wasn’t even going to bring me tea – I could have sat here for 2 hours using their internet and not even ordered anything. I did go inside, however, and asked for some tea. He brought out a nice wooden box and inside were about 15 different kinds of tea – just in case I really wanted something other than black.

Blue sky is back – bit of a breeze but very pleasant Friday afternoon. Rode back to camp against a bit of a headwind – stopped at the market to stock up again. I’ve been getting a lot of things I normally wouldn’t because Colin is coming with his van and I won’t have to carry the stuff on my bike.

Had a nice shower to wash the road-dirt off, did two loads of laundry and had a really nice dinner on a bench in the playground. A lady I hadn’t seen before came to ask me how long I was staying, as apparently they are not open tomorrow. I told her I was meeting a friend on Wednesday, but would probably be here until Thursday (in Italian and she understood me!).

Went to do my dinner dishes – even baby puppy doesn’t bark at me anymore, and actually let me touch him – I’m becoming like family now! Grandpa of the place told me that mama’s name is Maya and baby is Preet (not sure of spelling).

Took another little walk around the barn area – there’s also a shetland-type pony and a couple of younger horses – they must have been resting inside the barn when I looked a couple of days ago.

Donkey seemed especially unhappy this morning – was braying like crazy at around 6:30 so no more sleep. Bright blue sky and sun shining brightly on my tent. At least I got to do yoga for the first time since Saturday – it’s been years since I went 4 days in a row without, so it felt extra good.

Had a lovely breakfast – trying to use up the cheese I got yesterday so it doesn’t go bad if the weather actually stays warm. The package says ‘dutch’ but I would call it ‘swiss’ – whatever it is it’s delicious and I don’t like wasting good things!

Said goodbye to Angelika and Jochen and their dog Kalle (extremely well-behaved dog) – they issued another invitation to please visit them anytime in Germany. I would love to – perhaps Colin and I could arrange it, although it’s probably a little out of our planned route. Maybe next time!

Went for a ride – first stop was Cavour, where I asked a man on a bike where the bike routes around here are. He didn’t speak English, so I showed him one of the ‘useful phrases’ I had put in notes on the ipad. He nodded and led me to the ‘info’ centre where, together with the young boy on duty, got me a map of the area’s cycling routes and told me – it Italian with hand motions thrown in for good measure – how to find the nearest easy one.

Had a really good ride – first and last parts on ‘main’ roads without much traffic, and the middle part on very small side roads with almost no traffic. Rode southwest to Bagnolo, then took a very small road north to Campiglione Fenile, then back east to Cavour. It was very relaxing, except there is now a clicking noise on the front wheel that was annoying – will have to find out what’s making it.

Ended up at the same cafe as yesterday for another cup of tea, and to use their wi-fi. Facetimed Dom even though it’s 2 in the morning there. Had a nice chat but the reception wasn’t great and kept cutting out. Ate the cheese and veggies I brought as a snack while I caught up on news, etc.

Took a ride down a couple of roads with bike signs – I think I was heading south. Very pleasant and few cars, but didn’t go too far, as it might make a nice longer ride tomorrow. Headed back towards the campground and planned to stop at the market to get a few more things – but – closed for lunch – for 3 hours!

Decided to ride around a bit more to kill some time as they do seem to have a lot of bike trails – even some that don’t have any cars. Found a really nice pedestrian/bike path that winds almost all the way around the little mountain at the south end of town. The hill is called ‘Rocca di Cavour’ and looks like a very small Alp that’s all by itself on the plain 12-15 km away from all the big Alps. It’s a protected park and I believe there is a path up but I’d never make it on the bike.

Back at the main piazza in town I treated myself to some gelato – two flavours in a small cup. One was chocolate, with no milk so it was super strong flavour, and the other was creme – both very tasty and refreshing, but not too sweet.

Picked up a couple more things at the market on my way ‘home’ and made dinner. Little dogs came by on their ‘rounds’, big dog came not much later and visited for a bit. He sat on the ground cover I had out and demanded pats and scratches. Every time I stopped petting for more than a moment he was tapping my arm or leg with his paw to get some more.
The wind picked up suddenly and it started raining things from the trees above. I had to cover up my food and ended up moving to a bench in the playground that was under a different kind of tree. At least there’s no lightening, thunder or rain (yet).

Went and saw the menagerie – Mr. Donkey, two pens of sheep with little ones, one pen of goats, also with little ones, and a horse.