The storm during the night wasn’t as bad as Sandra had feared – it rained fairly hard from time to time, but didn’t seem that major. Left the motorhome, did yoga by my tent, ate a rather sparse breakfast – must go to the store – went for a ride just after 10. Turns out today is a holiday of some sort, so lots of kids in the playground here, and most businesses are closed – need to get a haircut tomorrow, I guess, if I can find a barber (my hair is almost an inch long on the sides!).

Not much of a town, at least on this side of the river. The Zitomislici Monastery is right across the highway so went and had a look. A couple of folks were just leaving, so had the place to myself.

As I entered the ‘foyer’ a young monk came up and opened the inner door for me – wow. I wasn’t expecting what the inside was like.

The Monastery has been on that site since at least the 1600’s, as it was renovated in 1602. It was torched in 1941 and most of it’s treasures and manuscripts were lost to the fire. Then it was completely destroyed in the war of 1992-95, before being rehabilitated in 2005. The beautiful paintings inside were done in 2012, according to the monk.

I ended up spending around an hour altogether, including the graveyard and lighting a candle in an outdoor three-tiered stand filled with sand to catch the dripping wax.


Just as I was leaving a van with six or seven people arrived – my timing was perfect.

Took a side road when I left the monastery but eventually it just looped back to the highway. Went back the way I came, then past the campground and over the bridge to the rest of Zitomislici on the other side of the river. Again not much of a town, but did follow the road beside the train tracks until the road ended, then back to the store I got directions in front of yesterday. Loaded up on veggies, etc – likely stay a few days where I am and was almost out of everything.

Got back to camp right before it started raining again, made soup and fresh veggies for lunch, in addition to what I thought was tuna that I got at the store. When I opened the can I was a bit surprised – it was actually tuna covered with ‘Mexican style vegetables’ – beans, etc. Actually not bad, but not what I had expected.

The flip-flop fix didn’t hold – strap was flapping again so tried something different. I sowed the strap on to the sole, pushing the needle thru 1/4 inch of rubber with the handle of my Swiss-army knife – that thing is so useful! The next larger town I’m in I’ll have to buy some sandals or something, I guess.

Went up to the terrace/bar are to sit at a table and play cards. A girl came over and asked if she could play with me – showed me a kind of rummy. Played for awhile – her name is Marianna and she’s from Osijek in north-east Croatia. I believe her aunt and uncle are the owners of the campground and she also just started working here. She speaks very good English, which she learned as a kid watching cartoons and movies. They don’t dub very many shows here so almost everything is in English with subtitles. Might have another change of plans and visit the area she’s from instead of going directly to Zagreb.

Restaurant got busier so Marianna had to work. Treated myself to dinner – skewers (pork) with fries and grilled vegetables. Skewers and zucchini were grilled over wood on the outdoor grill – both very delicious – cost me about $9 including tip. Took left-overs back to the tent for breakfast tomorrow.

Up nice and early to pack up all my gear. Hung the tent, fly and ground cover to dry and air out while I ate breakfast. Walked up to the ATM for cash to pay my bill, and got the German guy that arrived yesterday to take a pic of myself and Nedzad. Found out there was an earthquake last night just after midnight – didn’t feel a thing. One of the straps on my right flip-flop came out from the sole so I glued it back on with my tire-patch repair kit glue – hope it holds when I want to wear them later.

Got on the road to my next stop just after 9:30. The 1 km along the main highway wasn’t actually too bad – it wasn’t quite so windy as the first time I rode (without all the gear) so I didn’t feel so unstable. The Ciro is really nice – paved a good part of the way, then dirt/rocks for the middle bit. It runs along the Neretva river next to the new railway line.

Right at the town of Zitomislici the road continues straight but the Ciro veers left, than right again along the river. I stopped and asked a guy in front of a supermarket where the campsite was and he indicated I needed to go back to the road and up and over the bridge to the other side of the Neretva. Found signs at the other end – part of the campsite is under the bridge, and along the east bank of the river. Took awhile to pick my spot, which Sandra (the owner?) cleaned up for me – raked leaves, etc. While she did that I sat up on the terrace where there’s a bar and a bunch of picnic tables. Had two cups of tea (my own bags – all they have is fruity ones) then put my tent up. Could hardly move when I got up – arms are really sore from steering on the dirt/rocky part of the trail/road.

Had lunch on a lounge-chair outside my tent, then took a really nice shower – I was filthy from the dust and sweat. Feeling human again went back up to the terrace and had the ice-cream Sandra had offered me earlier – very refreshing.

Sat on a lounge chair for awhile looking at the river – someone across the river is clearing weeds or grass:

Just as I was cutting up veggies for my dinner the thunder started and very shortly after the rain came. Brought everything inside, except the campstove, of course – cooked soup in the rain, then ate in the tent.

I’m not used to spending so much time in the tent – the place at Blagaj had a nice sitting area under cover that we got to use, in addition to the kitchen.

Could see lightening from inside the tent, and it was pretty close – the thunder wasn’t very far behind. Was settling down very early when I heard Sandra calling me – she was very worried about the storm and implored me to spend the night in the camp’s motorhome (no charge). Grabbed a few things, including my sleeping bag and moved in quickly.

Did a bunch of laundry before heading out for another ride. Went to Buna, then turned south and up a side road up a hill – got too steep so turned back, then south again to Hodbina.

Took a side road east until it ended, then back to the M17.3 – kind of a main road, but not that busy. Went back to Blagaj the ‘long way’ and did the rest of my laundry.

Tried to find the barbershop so I could get my hair cut, but everything was closed for the afternoon. Walked down to the vendors near the dervish temple and got some more earrings.
Tried again to visit the Velagic Family Complex, but was still closed.

Landlord has decided to renew the lease after all, and has agreed to hire a yard maintenance guy to help out so the neighbours don’t freak out again about the state of the yard. Elsbet is on the mend and Dom’s new chiropractor is helping, so all is looking better.

Nephew Tim’s wife Megan had their baby months early so little fellow is in NICU in London, ON hospital – will likely be there for several weeks. Hope and pray that he will be ok, and get strong and healthy.

Got a bit of a late start, but took a nice ride around the area towards Buna – rode as hard as I could most of the time, and was quite tired when I returned. Lynn and John were still here, but just getting ready to leave. They told me they could have stuck my bike in their van, but I’m heading south (along the Ciro cycle trail) while they’re going north to Sarajevo. Wondered if I should make a quick change of plans and ask to go with them, but decided to keep to the plan I’ve worked out.

Took a couple of pic’s before they left, then did some more research about where I’m planning on heading next. Not very many campsites along the Ciro path, at least only one I could find between here and Metkovic, where I can catch a train back to Italy near the end of June.

Little black and white kitty heard me as soon as I sat at the table for my lunch – sure does love cheese.

Face-timed Dom – finding a new house to rent anywhere near where we are now isn’t going to be easy. We believe our landlord’s ‘situation has changed’ excuse to rescind the lease agreement we signed was based on something our neighbour might have said about the lawn not being cut. Still haven’t been told, so just a guess at this time, but we’re pretty sure it’s something ** said. Kind of crappy, since Elsbet, who used to insist on cutting the lawn has a fractured bone in her back, and Dom has an out-of-kilter neck (although he’s finally found a really good chiropractor). Lawn has been cut now and the yard looks at least as good as it did last time landlords visited, so don’t know what will happen.

Campsite host Nedzad is out in the river again cutting the grass – ha ha – what is it with cutting lawn/grass these days! There is long wavy river grass, and apparently it’s worse sooner this year than usual. Nedzad has been out in the canoe a couple of times as well as walking right in the river. The Buna is very cold so he’s in a wetsuit. They even have a bucket with ‘icy river Buna bucket challenge’ on it the river’s so cold – the ‘ice bucket challenge’ made it over here too!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO LITTLE BROTHER DOUG!!

Out riding by 9:30 – took the ‘back’ road again and under the advice of campsite host Nedzad took the first left instead of going straight. Up and over a small hill and ended up in the next little valley – passed yet another cemetary.

I wouldn’t say there’s a village in the valley – more like a bunch of farms, with sheep, gardens, fields, and a couple of cows.

The road ended after a few km, so turned back – had to stop for a couple of minutes while a herd of goats crossed the road. Motioned for two cars to slow down and beware of the goats – got a nice wave of thanks from one of them (a car, not a goat – ha ha).

Passed more burned/bombed houses – they are all over the place here.

Back to the campsite before it got too hot again. Fed little black and white kitty more bits of cheese, and was able to scratch and pet some more – saw it later eating some more crunchies from the bowl I’d filled again.

Some of Nedzad’s friends arrived to do ‘street art’ on site. There is an annual street art festival in Mostar. Boards were erected in three different areas and painting began. Another van arrived, this time with a Swiss couple.
Watched the artwork progress – Lynn and John came back from their guided tour of Mostar (said it was great). They kindly invited me to dinner, which John cooked – spaghetti with meatsauce and a very nice salad. Had a really nice chat.

Artists left, but not before I got an email address to send my pics to – hope they like and can maybe use them somehow.

Quiet evening in the campground, but music playing elsewhere, even on a Sunday – although I must say it’s not actually very loud or at all bothersome.

I just found out some very sad news – cousin Gavin passed away over a week ago – only 53 year olds. So sad…rest in peace young cousin.

Got going from the campground around 9:45 – went first to the Mosque of Sultan Sulejman, but it wasn’t open, so kept going down the hill to the Karadjoz-bey Haman (public baths) right next to the river where the Bridge of Karadjoz-Bey crosses.

There’s not a lot left, but I can imagine when it was whole it must have been pretty cool.

Walked back up to the ‘main road’ then over to the side road that leads to The Velagic Family Complex (from the 17th century), and the Tekija Blagaj/Dervish House. The Velagic complex seemed to be closed, so I continued on to the Dervish House, which is right at the springs that the Buna flows from, but on the other side of the river than I was at a couple of days ago.

Had to pay 2 Euro/4 KM to get in (as I have found here both currencies are accepted almost everywhere) and it was totally worth it. Had to walk past a long row of vendors to get to the entrance – some of them had really nice stuff, and some looked like made-in-China plastic garbage.

Before you go in to the ‘house’ everyone has to remove their shoes, and women have to cover their hair and have a long skirt. There was a very nice Muslim woman there with a rack of long skirts that she chose from to put around me, and a bunch of lovely head scarves. She chose a red one for me, but I pointed to a beautiful turquoise-green one instead. She happily folded it and put it around my shoulders and over my head for me.

I made sure taking pic’s was ok, and proceeded in. It was so peaceful and soothing – all the floors were covered with beautiful rugs, some were silk. You could hear the falls from each room, sometimes quite loud, sometimes a bit muted.

There were beautiful scrolls on the walls, and one room (the bathing room) had a gorgeous domed ceiling with coloured glass to let in light.

Spent about an hour in all – it was a really wonderful place. Stopped at one of the vendors on my way out and bought myself a couple of pairs of earrings – 1 euro/2 km each (about $1.50)!

Decided not to go on the Green Cave tour with Lynn and John – it was far too expensive for my budget – 25 euros per person, plus they were going up to the Fortress that I hiked to yesterday. After all the walking up and down I did today after the hike yesterday my calfs are burning, so I’m passing on it. Lynn promised to take pic’s for me, and let me know if she thinks I could find the cave on my own without the pricey guide.

I’m making friends with one of the 3 kitties – the black and white one ate a bunch of crunchies I put out (after I cleaned the bowl), then wanted some of my soup. I worried that it was too salty, so only left a tiny bit of broth, then went and got a small piece of cheese. Kitty really liked that, and even ate the last tiny piece out of my fingers. Then I went to sit at the table and kitty followed – I managed to pet and scratch it until it let me pick it up and put it on the cushioned bench beside me. It loved being petted, but is still very skittish.

Started my climb up to the Fortress around 9:40, although I stopped at a cemetery on the ‘main’ road of Blagaj on the way. There’s a memorial to all of the local folks that lost their lives in the civil war between 1991 and 1995 – their names and year of birth in alphabetical order under year of death. Some as young as 18, and some in their sixties – what a sad, sad waste. The single actual serious moment of my trip so far.

The road to the Fortress winds around the back of the mountain from Blagaj – it’s a good thing Nedzad gave me details about which trail to take once the pavement ends and you leave the road. The first ‘trail’ you notice is very well defined, and goes basically straight up – you’d have to be a mountain goat to make it (apparently it was made for moving equipment or something when some kind of repairs were done awhile ago). The real trail was a bit of a long climb, a very narrow, rocky path full of switchbacks that you wouldn’t want to go off the edge of. I didn’t know I could sweat that much – it was dripping off my fingers – good thing I left before it got hot!

The climb was worth it in terms of views of the valley – Blagaj, Buno River – you could even see Mostar in the distance.

The walk back down was much easier and quicker, although I really had to watch my step.

Got back to camp just before noon, tired, sweaty and hungry – at least I brought enough water for the walk. Happy to read the UK election results – ha ha Theresa May! Still don’t know what’s going to happen after the BC election – really hope Christie Clark doesn’t get to form the next government.

Bit of a lazy afternoon, then took myself out to dinner at the bar (Goldfish) across the river that’s showing the football game tonight. Had a nice grilled chicken salad with fries on the side, while watching Nadal thump Thiem at the French Open (at least I assume he won – one of the locals got the remote from the server and changed channel to the Bosnia and Herzegovina against Greece pre-game show). The Americans, Lynn and John, joined me when the game started.

Had a nice time chatting while watching the game – John left early but Lynn stayed. A new Dutch couple from the campground also came over for a bit. Game ended in a tie with no over-time to break it – apparently it’s not an elimination game so each team got 1 point and will play someone else in a few weeks.

Lynn and John have hired a guide to take them to the Green Cave tomorrow afternoon and have invited me to join them – should be interesting.

Swiss couple in the smelly jeep left around 7:30 – got up right after they’d gone (kind of late for me). Had breakfast, then hit the road on my bike before 9:30. Got some $ from an ATM at the post office – figured from my experiences in Croatia that not many places would have change for the large bills it spit out, so went inside the PO and got smaller denominations.

Rode along nice quiet roads towards the town of Buna – only took one wrong turn and flagged down a nice lady in a car that said ‘Buna? – follow me’. She didn’t drive that fast, but there were very stong head-and-cross winds for me to contend with. She stopped to wait for me at the turn-off to Buna (which was not marked) then continued on her way.

The road was narrow but very quiet – very nice riding. Met the M17 highway from Mostar, and crossed it trying to find the bridge across the river Neretva – took a little side trip and had to turn back as all the small roads dead-ended. Ended up on the M17, but only for about 1 km, then found the bridge across.

The cross-winds were really strong – the bridge is right where the Buna river empties into the Neretva. There’s kind of a small delta, and the Buna falls several meters into the Neretva – very pretty, but kind of scary on the bridge with the very strong winds.

On the other side of the bridge I found the Ciro cycling trail that runs from Mostar to Dubrovnik. At this point it’s not just for cycling, but cars were few and far between. Went south for a bit, then saw a skinny stray dog that was limping. Decided to turn around as he didn’t look too friendly and I didn’t want to get chased. Went a couple of km the other way past the bridge to see if there was any other crossing, but there wasn’t.

Headed back to camp before the sun gets any hotter (still taking care of my arms). Looked into campgrounds along the cycling route, although I’m not sure where I would end up. If I went all the way to Dubrovnik I could probably get a bus there, but my experience with getting my bike on buses here has not been pleasant. Also the trip would take me a few days and there’s only one campground I could find along the route – I’ll have to do more research online.

Back at camp for lunch – hot sunny day so staying in the shade. Met four very nice Americans this afternoon – two young guys that were friends of Nedzed’s daughter and are visiting the area for a month (have relatives here), and later a couple that bought a used van in the Netherlands and are on a 1 year trip to Europe and Asia (he’s on a sabbatical from his work). Politics, of course, came up (Comey is testifying today), and I’m not alone in my opinions. At least the more intelligent Americans seem to agree – Trump is a f-ing idiot and a scary threat to the environment and the world.

Had a nice visit with Lynn (the American) and showed her on the online map how to get to the Ciro route to Mostar. They will be here for a few days so will be able to chat with her and John (her hubby) more.

Motorcycle guys were packed up and gone by 6:40 – they were very quiet but I was awake. Oh – black tea was actually black tea! Got an early start riding so I can be back before it gets too hot. I had found yesterday online what was supposed to be a traffic-free cycling path between Mostar and Dubrovnik along an unused rail-line, and it passes thru Blagaj. It looked on the map like roads, and sure enough at least this part of it is.

I rode around Blagaj and followed the map I’d been given at the camp, and saw the ‘Eco Centre’, which was kind of funny. There was supposed to be Griffon Vultures, Shepherd Dogs and Donkeys, all of which are supposed to be endangered. I parked the bike and walked up a very steep dirt/rock road and ended up at what looked like someone’s house – there were grape vines and a lot of chickens (that were very excited to see me – likely thought I was going to feed them) but no vultures. There was a nice mural of what looked like an eagle to me on the outside wall, though.

There was a very impressive looking canyon between the mountains right where the vultures were supposed to be.

Walked back down and over to the donkeys, the baby was especially cute. Never did find the shepherd dogs – maybe they got out and scared the griffon vultures away.

Next stop was the springs where the river Buna is born. It is the only source of the river, and the mountain that births it is very steep and high and the springs seem to be inside a grotto. It was quite impressive – the spring is one of the most powerful in Europe, averaging 43,000 litres per second (if I read the info correctly). A very sweet Japanese (I think) girl took my pic on my camera in front of the grotto.

Rode back across the Bridge of Karadjoz-Bey (built in 1570) and up the road looking for the cycling route I’d read about – found it, although at this point, as I thought, it’s a regular road, not a traffic-free cycling trail. Swung by the store on my way back to camp – didn’t have enough Bosnian marks to pay with and they don’t take visa. Luckily I had an emergency 5 euro note in my camera case and that did the trick – they seem to take marks or euros interchangeably here – 1 euro to 2 marks.

Back at camp I showed Nedzad the route of the Ciro trail cycling path online and he went over it with me. The first part from Mostar is on a main road, then a smaller road to Blagaj. From here it’s an even less busy road for awhile, before you have to cross the M17 right after the Buna river meets the Neretva river. Apparently you only are on the M17 a very short distance then cross a bridge to the other side of the bigger river and go along the old railway (now the cycling trail) next to the new railway. I think I’ll ride 10-15 km along it tomorrow just to see how it is, then go a longer distance the next day, using this campsite as my base.

There’s a big and very important football (soccer) match on Friday evening between Bosnia-Herzegovina and Greece to decide which country gets to go on to the 2018 World Cup. They’re going to show it on tv at the cafe across the river, and it will likely be a big event with a large, probably noisy crowd – could be fun, especially if B-H wins.

Did some laundry and hung it to dry. Just finished making my lunch when it started raining. Nedzad ran and put a tarp over the un-covered things at the Dutch girl’s tent and moved their laundry-drying racks full of clothes under the covered area that we get to use. I moved my wet clothes to their racks as well.

The whole time I was eating it just poured, and the river started steaming. Nedzad went out for awhile and told me I was in charge if anyone new arrived while he was gone. Rain stopped after about an hour, and bright sunshine appeared.

Went for a nice walk across the bridge and up the hill from camp – some good views. Came back to make dinner, but the Dutch ladies are using the kitchen. Got an email response from Tauli that was very sweet – had sent her and Heike and Chris emails earlier with pic’s from yesterday morning at Camping Split.

Wi-fi reception here is very good, so before even getting out of my sleeping bag I checked emails, etc. One in particular caught my attention – apparently our landlords back at home have rescinded the lease that we signed right before I left – no reason given, but we have to be out by the end of July. I’m certainly not planning on cutting my trip in half just because things have changed for them, so must leave it up to Dom to find a new place and pack up and move while I’m over here – I’ll likely be in England my then. Cheaper and out of the city might be nice, with room for a proper garden.

Fried some potatoes for breakfast in the kitchen that we get to use. Went for a short walk on the other side of the river, then came back to wash my clothes from yesterday – they were filthy from all the bike wrestling I had to do on the buses.

Left for a ride just after 10 – followed the road across the river until I came to a ‘recreation area’ – big park-like place. They were doing some work – a couple of guys with weed-whackers cutting the grass in a large field, with 3 others raking the cut grass into piles. Also a team at the river with large bull-dozer – looked like they were maybe building a bridge from one side of the park to the other across a stream that flows into the river.

Rode up a side road that passed a small mosque, then the road ended at some houses. The growing season seems to be ahead of that at home – saw rows of cabbages that were gigantic and ready for harvest. Also lots of beans and peppers – looks like a good growing area.

Could see the ‘Herceg Stjepan Kosaca fortress’ on top of a hill just out of town. Apparently the walk up isn’t that long or hard so I might try it tomorrow.

Rode around a bit more on this side of the river – school had just gotten out for lunch so there were kids everywhere. Checked out the campsite I thought I was coming to when I rode in yesterday (they have very similar names and are quite close to each other) but was glad I stopped at the one I’m at. The other one is also right on the river, across from a fish farm – the run-off sounds like a waterfall, but the camp itself just looked like a small field and not as ‘friendly’ as this one. Also, you’d have to go a much longer distance to get anything from a store, etc.

Got some more provisions from the store – another two packets of dried soup, cheese (think it’s sheep cheese, but not really sure), more fresh veggies and some black tea. When I bought tea yesterday I asked if it was ‘black tea’ and the lady said yes – don’t know what it was but when I brewed it this morning it was not black. Looked up black tea today on google-translate so knew what to look for on the box – I’ll see if I chose correctly tomorrow morning when I have some.

There are some trees here that are producing fluff like dandelions do – it’s floating all around in the air and gets into everything – food, drink, tent. The day started out kind of overcast, but is now sunny and getting quite hot (at least in my tent), but there is a breeze. Luckily the campground has a very nice covered area where we can power-up our gadgets and sit at a big table on cushion-covered benches.

Three little kitties came near and likely wanted food – there was an empty dish at the gate into the next yard. When I went to the store later I bought some crunchies for them and asked our host (Nedzad) if it was ok to feed them. He told me all about them – these three belong to his cousin. Two years ago there was a momma cat named Queen Mother who apparently ruled the roost and had one or two litters of little ones each year for 7 or 8 years. She was hit by a car on the road outside the camp in the winter and he took her inside in front of the fire and called the vet but there was nothing that could be done. She was too badly injured and died the next day – he was very sad. Then a few months later there was a kitten crying at the top of the driveway, and when he next cried he was down by the wall to the river. Nedzad went down to make sure he was ok and he was almost lost in the grass. He was, of course, adopted by the campers that were there, and was name Mr. Spit. They had recently introduced mountain climbing as something campers could participate in here, and the company that makes the spikes (?) was named Spit. The kitty was given a box for his home, and it came from the Spit company, so a friend said ‘that must be his name’. Mr. Spit was a camp favourite and 2 new rules were made – don’t step on him, and never move your car until you’ve checked that he’s not under it! He also was hit by a car on the road outside the camp, and his little body was taken away – boo hoo (and I’m not being sarcastic).

Two motorcyclists have arrived, each with a tent, and a car with two more guys in a tent. The place is almost full!

The ‘It’s okay to eat now’ gun went of a short while ago, followed by wailing from the mosque – actually it didn’t sound that bad. They’ve been eating and drinking at the cafe and the restaurant across the river all day, so I’m not sure how many folks here follow those rules. The moon is almost full, so maybe Ramadan is almost over – I’ll have to ask.