Il Lombardia – the Race of the Falling Leaves

510E9FC8-6A8E-432E-AC72-1AC5F26D4678DA396A16-BB2D-44A6-A464-1DA183147257Got a fairly good sleep – the folks upstairs were up and making noise very early, but it’s an older building and not that soundproof. I made a cup of tea – very small, as they only expect people to drink espresso or cappuccino here, I guess – and went out onto the terrace to do a little bit of stretching as the sun peeked over the mountains to the east.
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We got going around 10:00 – first took a drive past the church and down the hill a bit – the racers will be coming up it about 5 hours from now. We turned around after about a mile and came back up to about 300 metres from the top and parked in a pull out on the left hand side. There’s a large group of Pantani fans two corners below us – I suspect they’re having beer for breakfast.
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We then walked up to the restaurant that we get our free breakfast at – also owned by our landlady Florianna. She was very happy to see us, and we got a table outside overlooking the main road and just down from the church and cycling museum. Breakfast was very simple – cappuccino and croissant – but the location more than makes up for any perceived lack.
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After eating and sitting for awhile we walked across the road and had a wander through the museum.
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It’s a really excellent display of old bikes, photos from over 100 years ago, winner’s jerseys from many of the Italian races, including the Giro jersey won by Cdn Ryder Hesjedal in 2012.
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After our lovely museum tour we headed down to the car and setup the flags as well as the table and chairs. The breeze is pretty good so hopefully the flags will fly well.
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I then took a walk down the hill a bit to the Pantani corner – they welcomed me very warmly and fed me BBQ pork ribs and red wine. One lady spoke a bit of english so I stayed for a little while and chatted.
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Upon returning back to the car I had a little more to eat – unfortunately I’d forgotten to bring some forks for the greek salad I’d made, but the boiled eggs were good and you don’t need a fork to eat carrot sticks or peanuts.
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My next trip was up the hill – I walked with an American fellow that had passed the car and stopped to chat with us. He and his wife are in Italy for a year on an extended traveler’s visa – wish I could get one! Once we’d reached the top of the hill he left to find his wife, and then I heard my name being called from across the road. It was Florianna so I crossed over to say hello. She then told me to follow her and led me into the little church.
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It wasn’t what I expected – it was quite small, and was really a church to cycling, with old bikes mounted near the ceiling, lots of photos and jerseys – kind of like a smaller version of the museum.

It was quite crowded, so she grabbed my hand and led me to the back, then through a side door. There was a little old man there, and his job was to stand on a chair and look out of a small window to see down the hill when the racers are coming. When he sees them he rings the church bell so folks know they’re getting close. I got up on the chair to have a look out, then he held my arm as I stepped back down.
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I then went back to the car as the racers were expected to arrive shortly, and I’m glad I did – they were ahead of schedule and arrived around 2:55. There was a breakaway of four, followed by a couple of solo racers, then the peloton only two minutes behind. I tried out the nifty flash that Colin got me for a late birthday present – the racers often have their heads down as they ride and it leaves their faces in shadow, so I was quite pleased with the results.
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About third man back was last year’s winner Vincenzo Nibali (in orange/red and blue), followed very closely by current world champion Alejandro Valverde (in white jersey with rainbow around the middle). Cdn Michael Woods – third at the world’s just two weeks ago in Innsbruck – was about the middle of the pack.

After we took down the flags we drove the short distance up the hill to the restaurant and watched the last 70 km of the race on their tv. It was eventually won by Frenchman Pinot, with local favourite Nibali coming a very impressive second – he did, after all, fracture a bone in his neck at the Tour de France in July (an accident caused by an f’ing ‘fan’!!) and had it cemented together so he could ride again.
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Following the end of the race we went back to the apartment for a bit, then returned to the restaurant for dinner. We chose the set menu, which turned out to be about three day’s worth of food for me. It began with polenta, which was three very large tasty pieces, with a slice of sausage of some sort. The second course was a delicious fettuccine with potatoes and cauliflower, and the main course was roast beef with gravy and sliced roasted potatoes. I tried my best to eat as much as I could, and Mo did her best to help.
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North to Magreglio

Yesterday was mostly getting ready for our next little trip – buying a few groceries, etc. We managed to leave this morning right at 9:00.
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As usual our destination was entered into the GPS while I followed our progress north using the map book.

We took the toll-highway most of the way, skirting Firenza, Bologna, Modena and Milano. Right around Reggio Emilia we passed the train station that looks like a wonderful origami sculpture.
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After Milano it was regular highways until just south of Lecco, where we were slightly mis-directed because of road work that Miss GPS didn’t know about.

We got back on the right road, then partway between Lecco and Como we turned north towards the interior of the ‘peninsula’ between the two southern arms of Lake Como. Once again we took a very circuitous route through one of the villages, but eventually were cruising in the right direction to the town of Magreglio.
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Since we’d arrived fairly early we went for a drink (ie: coffee for Colin, red wine for me) before trying to track down the apartment. There’s a small church and a bicycle museum right at the northern edge of the town, and it has a pretty good view of part of the lake and the mountains beyond.
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There’s also a really cool monument/statue to cycling right at the top.
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There are, of course, many cyclists around the town – a whole group arrived at the cafe just before we left. A local fellow was reading the sports journal, which is on pink paper – the colour of the original sponsor of the Giro.
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Some of the arriving riders spoke English and some sounded German as well as other languages.

We drove to the apartment and called the landlady, who arrived about 3 minutes later. She showed us the place – it has a large kitchen, two bedrooms and a nice bathroom, in addition to having a nice large private terrace. She seems very nice and is into cycling – there are lots of photos and prints on the walls as well as other cycling paraphernalia all over the place.
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We brought our stuff in then walked down about a block to the local supermarket to get a few things. Dinner was pretty simple – fresh pasta with tomatoes. Fairly early bedtime.

Lunch at Il Ristoro, Wine at Passignano

8B0E0726-30BA-4632-A7D9-75CC8C071D76Had a couple more kind of lazy days – mostly sat around reading as Colin did little things out on the terrace. He’s sanded the hand rails and lower gate and painted them black – they look much better. Went with him to Marsciano and got a couple of little plants and a square pot to spruce the terrace up a bit more.
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The ‘reclining nude’ statue in Marsciano still has her new hands and necklace, and is still holding a small globe – we stopped so I could take a photo in case they get stolen again.
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Across the road from where Colin has to park in Papiano there’s a large plowed field that seems to have a resident cat – it’s a beautiful creamy-brown coloured little one and I imagine the field is full of mice or something because he’s always hunting in the field or the grass at the edge.
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After getting the small plants in their pots and setting them on the stairs to the lower gate we tidied up and headed out for lunch.
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We drove to the south shore of Lago Trasimeno and then went east to the village of Monte Buono where the restaurant ‘il Ristoro’ is – that’s where we stopped one time last October when Colin first came to the area to look at the house, and he’s been here once or twice since as well.

It was just as I remembered – you place your order either at a small window before you enter the restaurant, or go inside and crowd into a very small cafe-type room that has a coffee bar. You have to squeeze thru to the far end – it actually isn’t far, but takes a minute to get to because of the crowd – place your order, which you choose from the menu on the blackboard above – they give you a small pink piece of paper with a number on it and then you go and pick your table.
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It was a lovely day so we chose to go outside. There were quite a few people there, both inside and outside – I was impressed by how busy it was. After a short wait one of the waitresses came out with placemats and cutlery calling ‘vinti siete, vinti siete’ – ‘27, 27’ – which was us. We waved her over and she just kind of dumped the placemats down in a pile – I set them out myself.

A short while later she arrived with the wine, then came our bruschetta, which was delicious. The restaurant has several resident cats – I think one is the mother and there’s 3 or 4 kittens that are all very cute. They scamper around the restaurant’s playground, and sneak past Mo when her back’s turned.


Our main courses arrived – we both got pasta. I chose the tagliatelle with meat sauce and it was just as good as when I got it last year, although I didn’t get the dish of parmesan cheese to sprinkle over it this time. The portion was larger than it looked and even though it was very delicious I wasn’t able to eat all of it so Mo lucked out.

When we were done rather than going straight back to Papiano we drove north along the east coast of the lake to the town of Passignano. When we were coming home from L’Eroica on Sunday we had left the highway and passed through the town – it had looked interesting so we wanted to visit it.

38FA6C79-AB2D-4F25-A42E-8B0ED809C5D6There was a fairly large parking area right by the lakeshore, and a lovely wide boardwalk that we followed west for quite a ways.
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There are benches all over the place, and we passed through a small park that had some nice statues, and some kind of weird-looking ones.


Colin read on a plaque that the strange ones were done by a student of Picasso – that explained it.

We then wanted to stop for a quick drink – there are lots of bars across the road from the lake, as well as touristy souvenir shops. A big thing here seems to be hand-painted plates and little cups, etc.


The first bar we went into said they didn’t sell wine by the glass but only by the bottle so we continued on, turning down a small road away from the lake.
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We found a really nice patio outside another bar and sat down- we eventually got our wine. After a nice little break we walked around and looked at a few of the shops – more boars, including some very cute little stuffed toy ones.

Upon leaving the town we got headed in the wrong direction on the highway, so had to take the next exit and get turned around.
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Awesome L’Eroica

The last couple of days were relatively lazy – Friday because we just wanted to do nothing, and Saturday because it poured rain off and on the entire day.
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Sunday we got up really early – 6:30 – so we could make the drive up north of Siena to watch the annual L’Eroica bike race. It’s a completely different kind of race than I’ve ever been to before – each participant rides a bike from at least 30 or so years ago – some much older – and they have to dress as one would have at the time. An acquaintance of Colin’s – Jay, from England – was riding in the event. There are several different courses, from short to medium to very long, and there were several thousand participants.
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We were just getting ready to leave the house at about 7:20 when Jay phoned – he’d gotten about 20 km into the medium-length course when he encountered a problem with his handlebars. He hadn’t taken all of his tools with him, and because it was a really odd bolt no one else could help him either. We were going first to pick up Jay’s wife Alison at the place they’re staying anyway and she had the tool.
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We left Papiano in a light rain, but fortunately the rain lessened the further we drove and by the time we passed into Tuscany it was starting to clear. We keyed in the GPS coordinates for the ‘village’ of Adine but realized that something was once again wrong – it was directing us to go past Siena to the west, but we knew we should actually be turning before Siena and to the north somewhere.
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We followed the signs to the beautiful village of Lecchi in Chianti, then a bit further to where Adine was supposed to be. There really wasn’t a village – just a few farms and other buildings along a white dirt/gravel road. We stopped at the first large house, and an old lady came out to see what we needed. She suggested that we might be looking for the house along the road and up the next hill. She mentioned that there were no addresses, but that each house had a name instead.
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Just then Alison returned Colin’s phone call, and she came walking towards us from around the corner of the house – she and Jay are staying in a lovely little stone cottage that used to house the chickens and some other small animals.
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With Alison along we headed back down thru Lecchi in Chianti and on towards the town of Gaiole in Chianti (the ‘in Chianti’ is part of the name for many villages and towns in the area). Jay had been pretty good with his directions, so we turned before the town and took the road to Castello di Brolio, which was where he’d had to quit riding. It was slow going as other riders were all heading the same way we were – they didin’t stop the traffic in either direction for the event so we had to be extra careful.
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Jay was lucky to have been able to stop where he did – there was a cafe and tables and many of the riders were stopping there for beverages, including beer and wine.
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The tool Alison had brought did the trick – Jay was on his way again after about 30 seconds of work. He had originally wanted to do the 130 km route but was going to do one of the shorter ones because of his 3 hour delay. While he went off riding Colin, Alison and I sat down at the cafe for a cappuccino and some people watching.
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Some of the bikes and outfits were so interesting – and I called it a race but it really isn’t. Just participating is the point, and showing the different types and styles of bikes and how they’ve changed over the decades. Folks come from many countries – I saw shirts that indicated Romania, Croatia, England of course, and many others.
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The cafe itself was dedicated to cycling, with posters and photos on the walls, as well as a classic old Bianchi. Outside was a Dawes, which is an old English bike, and apparently a bit unusual and of very high quality.
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There was a couple on a little Lambretta motorcycle that were doing full-on repairs – they had a crowd around them needing assistance with their bikes, and they weren’t even at the white gravel sections yet.
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After our little break we drove back down the road and into the town of Gaiole in Chianti and tried to find parking. There had been cars lining both sides of the road for the last 2 miles as we neared the town but we thought we’d lucked out at a little parking lot just as we entered the town. But we were just getting out of the car when we were told we had to move – it was for official cars and police only, although no one had prevented us from entering. The fellow was very nice and told us to follow the road we were on until we passed the stadium, then go to the right and there would be parking.
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We found a large field that had hundreds of vehicles parked in it, but after driving slowly around the first part we gave up and went a bit further down the road. Right at the sign that points to the village of Vinci we pulled in and it was much better than the other field had been. We parked at the end of the first line of cars, and it was now warm enough to change into my rah-rah skirt and take a layer or two off the top.
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As we walked thru the field towards the town we stopped to admire a couple of very old vehicles – one of the men recognized the maple leaf on my backpack and I heard him tell the others it meant I was from Canada – I confirmed this for him and he thought it was great that I was here for L’Eroica.


The three of us made our way into the centre of the town – there were food and beverage booths set up all over the place and people everywhere.
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Boar is big around here – there were at least three booths that specialized in it.

We were all hungry and since it was around noon we chose a restaurant just past the finish line and actually had no problem getting a table outside. I chose the ravioli with ricotta and braised spinach in a truffle cream sauce – it was absolutely fantastic. Along with a nice glass – or two – of the house red wine, sitting in a lovely town in Toscana (Tuscany) surrounded by avid cyclists and enjoying it with excellent company I’m not sure what could possibly be better. Alison very kindly told us that lunch was her treat!
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After we finished eating we walked further up the main road of the city centre – it was wall-to-wall people with bicycles just having a good time and enjoying the atmosphere. All of the cafes and restaurants were doing a booming business and everyone seemed to be having a great time. There were a few tandem cycles, as well as some recumbents.
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Alison phoned Jay and he was only about 5 km away from finishing so we found seats at another outdoor cafe/bar and sat down with a drink to wait for him to arrive.

He had no problem finding us and after spending a bit more time sitting we headed back through the crowds towards the car – hundreds and hundreds of riders were still arriving.

We eventually made it back to the car, and because of the amount of traffic and how slowly it was moving we thought it would be a good idea to go the other way when leaving the parking area – not necessarily a good idea.

Miss GPS kept telling us to do a u-turn and we kept thinking that the road we were on would eventually wind around the hill and get us back onto another road that would lead us to Lecchi or somewhere else – but noo – Miss GPS was actually right and we did end up having to turn around and go back through the town.

The traffic wasn’t as bad as we expected, only stopping completely a couple of times as the road was very narrow, cars were parked on both sides, traffic was trying to come and go, and there were people and bikes all over the place.

181AF4D8-3A3A-4912-B080-D46EE16A3AD4We finally cleared the town and got Jay and Alison back to their cottage. We said a fairly quick goodbye as it was still a 2-hour drive home for Colin.

We kept passing cyclists for miles and miles as we drove back towards Umbria – they must have taken the long route and still had a good hour or two of riding to get to the finish.
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As we got to Lago Trasimeno we thought it would be nice to follow the lake for a bit so turned off the highway – it was very lovely but then we chose a road that ended up leading us back to Perugia so it wasn’t much of a short-cut after all.

Back at home we were both still pretty full from lunch, and a bit tired from having gotten up so early so didn’t really have dinner. Colin packed it in around 8:30 while I managed to stay up reading until around 10:00 – tired but very satisfied with what had been a wonderful day.

Revisiting Trevi

Left this morning with Colin to go back to Leroy and Merlins so he could complete his business, then we continued on to the revisit the lovely town of Trevi.
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On the way there the traffic backed up a couple of times – they’re doing roadwork in places, but the worst part ended up being a flat-bed truck with a digger on it that had ended up on its side across the right-hand lane and the emergency stopping lane and bashed in the barricade for several meters. It was leaking liquid from more than one place – I just hope no one lights up a cigarette nearby.
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Miss GPS took us on a very strange route – if we’d been in the campervan we would have had a problem, but we got there in the end. It’s market day in Trevi and the large main piazza was partially full of tables and displays. We also noticed a lot of barriers up or ready to be put up.
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We walked around the small market then headed further into the town to piazza Mazzini. This one has a fairly large grandstand setup – it seems there’s a festival coming up starting tomorrow and I guess they’re having a play or something.
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We looked at the menu in front of one of the restaurants and decided to have lunch there. Colin chose the pork liver with roasted potatoes and I got the tagliatelle with boar ragout – both excellent choices it turned out.
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Shortly before we were ready to leave a couple sat down at the table next to us – they were Americans and had heard us speaking english so struck up a conversation with us. They are using Perugia as a base for their holiday and the wife is taking Italian lessons – her teacher recommended this restaurant to them. It’s always a good sign when a local person eats at a place and likes it enough to recommend it to friends.
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I had spied an ‘i’ sign on a building across the piazza so when we left the restaurant we headed over and it was, indeed, a tourist info office. The young lady inside spoke very good english and informed us that yes, there was a medieval festival starting tomorrow and there are all sorts of events going on over the next couple of weeks.
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We picked up a couple of brochures, one of which had to do with the white numbers we’ve seen on a lot of the buildings and houses here. If you look the number up in the brochure it tells all about the place and its history – very interesting.
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There was a beautiful orange cat with orange eyes sitting in a window looking out at us as we passed by one place – looking more curious than concerned.
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We walked around a bit then back to the car – stopped in Foligno to get some groceries, and at a Decathlon store so Colin could get a couple of things. Back at home in Papiano we were both still stuffed from lunch so only had a bit of cheese and a few cherry tomatoes for a late snack.

Dog Encounters on Interesting Walk

Got up fairly early after a really nice sleep – had a lovely shower and stayed home and did yoga while Colin went up to Leroy and Merlins in Perugia to see about getting a few things taken care of for the house.
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Mo and I were just starting out for a walk when we encountered one of the many village cats – as usual the cat kind of ignored Mo so she ignored it. Shortly after we turned the corner we encountered Colin coming back from his trip to town. He dropped a couple of things off at the house, then we went down to the other bar.
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After lunch at home we went for a walk on the road that goes up the hill above the village and around to the south. We had to go past the house that had the very scary dog I had faced down last May while walking alone with Mo. This time there was only one dog, and while it barked at us from its yard it never came at us on the road – the vicious one wasn’t around.
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The weather was lovely – not too hot, but not yet cold – just beautiful countryside.
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Partway along the road I suggested that we take a ‘short cut’ back down to Papiano instead of continuing along to the main road like Mo and I had done last time.
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It turned out to be an ‘interesting’ decision. It was an unpaved road, but many of the smaller ones around here are. It went down through an olive orchard – they look almost ready for harvest.
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But it wasn’t actually a road, it was a driveway, and there were once again dogs – two very little yappy ones and one much larger one. They seemed ok with Mo at first, then the large one lunged and seemd like he wanted to eat her. The owner chastised him and told us we were welcome to keep going down the hill, which we could see turned into a grass track just beyond his house.

We continued on down and the grass track kind of ended in another house’s back field. It was on a fairly steep hill but we could see a track on the far side – we crossed over at the top of the field and followed the side down until we were able to get onto the track.

We followed that for a short way, then the track ended and we hiked up a small but very steep hill that brought us to one of the alleys just below Colin’s house. Both of us needed a drink after our adventure, so down we went to Poppy’s.
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Back home for dinner we had fried eggs with mashed potatoes and beans. Watched a DVD of an old Italian detective show called Zen, then fairly early to bed again.

Leaving Austria (sob) for Italy (yay)

Got up at a fairly decent time so we could have a cup of tea and a bite to eat before packing up all of our stuff and loading the car.
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I’m very sad to be leaving Austria – I’ve really enjoyed being here – the area around where we’re staying, the beautiful city of Innsbruck, and the road races have all been just fantastic. The only thing that makes leaving ok for me is that we’re heading back to Italy.
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We said goodbye to our hostess Lisa, who gave us each a present – a little jar of herbal salts that were made by a local lady – and got underway around 10:00 under pouring rain. We crossed into Italy via the Brenner Pass and headed south through Bolzano and Trento.
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We stopped at an Autogrill somewhere after we crossed into Italy and had the best cappuccino I think I’ve ever had in my life – they make good coffee in France and Spain, but somehow a proper cappuccino seems beyond them.
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We passed many lovely looking villages perched on hillsides, as well as quite a few forts and castles.
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I must say that Bolzano was a big disappointment to me as I’d read about how beautiful it was and I know it’s a ski destination and also has excellent cycling paths – one of which goes all the went to Trento and beyond, mostly downhill.

However, all I noticed was all of the factories and warehouses – it didn’t seem quite the quaint little town I was expecting. But we weren’t stopping anyway and continued on south.
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We reached Modena just after 3:00 and followed the GPS directions to find the B&B that Colin had booked online. We drove over 50 km out of town and into the hills before we basically dead-ended in a farmer’s courtyard. A boy came out of the barn to see who we were, and called for his father to help interpret – there were several cats watching the exchange, but they weren’t very helpful.

We realized that the GPS co-ordinates must have been completely wrong so input the street address instead – all the way back to Modena. We made a pit-stop at a bar – mostly so we could use the facilities, and found the B&B around 5:30.

It’s a large house and you go up to the bedrooms via the host’s kitchen. It’s surrounded by a very large organic farm that produces Parmigianno Reggiano cheese. We brought our bags in through the still-pouring rain, and then asked where we could find a store and someplace to eat. Our host gave us directions and Colin input it to the GPS – hoping we wouldn’t be driving 50 km to find the shopping centre.

This time we reached our destination on the first try – a large mall not that far away. We went inside and found a huge supermarket and picked up a few things. Then we tried to get a piece of pizza but the lady behind the counter was too busy chewing gum to give us much help so we went further to a tapas-bar type place.

We wanted a few of the tapas so each grabbed a little plate, but one of the girls said no no – we then thought that they wanted us to pay first. But that wasn’t it either – one of the other girls spoke a bit of english, and advised us that the tapas are only for those that order ‘the plate’, and she would bring it to us when it was ready, so that’s what we got.

We each chose a few things to snack on – they were good – then ‘the plate’ arrived – it was several kinds of thinly sliced meat and two small chunks of creamy cheese along with several bread sticks. I ate until I was stuffed – much more interesting than the pizza we were originally going for.

Back at the house the host invited us down for a glass of wine – he was preparing dinner for himself as well as a long-term guest that stays there four days a week while he works in Modena, then goes home every weekend to Tuscany where he actually lives.

We had a nice visit for a bit – we were also served more of the local cured meat to go with the white wine. Afterwards we went back to our room – I have my own bunk-bed, and it’s surprisingly comfy.

The next morning we were up at 7:00 for our self-serve breakfast in the host’s kitchen, then packed up and on the way around 8:20. The weather was a bit better – not exactly sunny, but not pouring rain either.

We stopped at another Autogrill and had another delicious cappuccino, then continued on south. We skirted east along the north shore of Lago Trasimeno to the edge of Perugia, then south to Papiano.
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We were going to pop into the local store, but it was all chained up so went directly to the house. After we’d unloaded the car we walked down to the village to Poppy’s bar – when I asked about the supermarket the owner’s son told me it was closed for a couple of weeks then would re-open with new owners.

After a glass of wine for me and a coffee for Colin we went into Marsciano to stock up on food, as the fridge was bare. We had a fairly early night after two days of travel – it’s good to be ‘home’.

The Big Road Race – Men’s Elite for World Title

Got up super-early and were on our way by 6:30 to pick out our spot for the race. We went up the circuit from the opposite side so we could pick the best spot on the way down, which would be the way up for the race. There are quite a few large areas to park – most of them seem to be run by locals who charge a small fee for the use of their field. But there are quite a few spots with port-a-potties and other places with beverage and food tents.
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We decided on a spot just outside the boundaries of the town of Aldrans, just over ⅓ of the way up the climb that the racers will pass by six times. We found a great spot that we backed into so the flags will be right above the road.
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It was still only a few degrees above zero and the sun hadn’t quite cleared the mountain above so it was incredibly cold – I had about six layers of clothes on, including my merino wool sweater and a fleecy pullover of Colin’s. All I really needed after that was a hat, scarf and mittens, but a black blankie had to do instead.

We setup the table and chairs and got the water started for the tea. At one point Colin went down the road to look around and I checked the water – it didn’t look like the flame was on and I thought the canister was perhaps empty. I put the kettle back on the burner and turned around and then I heard a sound – they whole thing had fallen over, and the canister wasn’t actually empty but was still burning away. If it had been hot and dry out it could have started a fire! And almost all of the water spilled out of the kettle so I had to refill it and start the boiling process all over again.

Finally we got a pot of tea steeping, and had a bit of food to eat. We were really glad we got such an early start – the field we chose filled up pretty quickly and cars and bikes came up the road by the hundreds. The moment the sun cleared the mountain above us it got instantly warmer and the layering process was reversed.
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I took a walk down a ways to find a clean port-a-potty – there was a space around the corner below us that had a large tent setup with food and drinks, as well as a pile of tables and chairs, and a large tv screen. Their biffies were very clean and had toilet paper and water for washing – pretty spiffy biffy!
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Back at our spot more and more folks kept coming – they finally put a rope up to stop more from trying to come in.
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The first riders appeared around 12:12 – a breakaway of about 10 or 12, including a Cdn – Robert Britton.
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The peloton at that time was about 17 minutes behind. Each time they came around again the breakaway was smaller, and the peloton was closer.
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By the third time around Peter Sagan, the world champion for the last three years, gave up and packed it in. After that it was a process of reigning in the breakaway and establishing a position.
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I got some great photos – Cdn Michael Woods…
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Irish rider Daniel Martin…
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Local dinasaur…

1733BF33-4FB3-410E-8ACD-6D5204EBFCD5Michael Woods and Alejandro Valverde…
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Vincenzo Nibali…
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Tom Domoulin and Nairo Quintana…
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Fans high….and low…


After the race had passed for the sixth and final time we went to a campervan a few spots up from us and watched the end of the race on their tv. Spaniard Valverde, Frenchman Bardet and Cdn Michael Woods were in the lead, with Dutchman Domoulin trying to catch them, which he did. As they approached the finish it was a four-man sprint, with Valverde taking off first – the others were unable to catch him, although it was so close! Bardet came second and Woods came third, although neither one of them at the time seemed that happy to be on the podium since they weren’t on the top step. Valverde, on the other hand, was ecstatic, having come in second in the World’s twice before, and third four times.
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The highland cows on the way home seemed just as unimpressed as the goats the other day were.

Meeting Sally

5256C178-7460-43CD-BD84-5A1D269A9FC9The sky was a bit overcast to begin with so we didn’t get out for a walk until almost 11:00. Mr. Rooster was walking his mini-harem around the yard as we passed, but Mo didn’t seem interested in them and they basically ignored her.
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We walked down the path just in front of our apartment and headed north – this time we crossed the road at the bridge and followed the path on other side.
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We passed a group of hikers along the way, as well as other walkers that were on their own.
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Just before we got to the next village we crossed the road again and found our way to the path I’d ridden on a few days ago to make our way back home.
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There are a couple of benches along the way that have a metal cutout naming the places that were involved in the Winter Olympics when they were in Innsbruck – 1976, I think.
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There’s also a nice map and display of the local Camino trail – or Jakobsweg, as it’s called here. I must have ridden right past it the other day and didn’t even notice it.
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Back ‘home’ for lunch, then we met the dog that’s staying in the next apartment – her name is Sally and she’s very friendly and has a lot of energy. We opened up the gate between our two balconies and Mo and Sally had a great time scampering back and forth between our two apartments.
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We watched the Elite Women’s road race on tv – we actually had gone out yesterday morning and scouted out the part of the course that they’re doing loops of – there’s a really long, hard hill and the women today are doing 3 loops and the men tomorrow are doing six so we scoped out where we might want to park ourselves for the men’s race.

A Dutch woman ended up winning, and a Cdn came sixth – not too bad!

Another beautiful walk in the Tirol

We took a little trip down into Telf to go to the store, then when we got back we drove into Gasse (which is very close) and parked the car so we could go for a walk further north. We cut across a field to get to the path, and started walking.
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We passed a very nice hand-made fence, and some of the boards had the name of the kind of tree it came from burned into it, or burned into a small board nailed to it.
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We went by some very nice small farms, and a house that had a very old pair of skies next to the front door, and a black cat that didn’t seem at all bothered by Mo.


We walked until we came to a large gate at the end of the last farm – we could have continued further, probably all the way to Germany, but decided to turn back.
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It was a beautiful day and all of the animals were out enjoying the still-green grass, even a deer.
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We’ve noticed that the whole area and everywhere we’ve been around here is very neat – the yards are well kept, houses and buildings are well maintained, roadsides are neat and trimmed, and there’s very little garbage visible anywhere.

And we assume it gets pretty cold in the winter – most of the houses have massive stores of wood piled up in sheds, etc.
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Most of the houses are chalet-style, with balconies covered in hanging baskets of flowers – it’s just beautiful.
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Back at the apartment we had stew for lunch and watched the Under 23 Men’s Road Race – won by a Swiss rider who didn’t do much work in a 3-man breakaway but was able to get away from the other 2 with about 10 km remaining. Good tactics, I guess, but I felt sorry for the young Belgian that came second.