We’re still sticking pretty close to home, although I have gone on a couple of nice bike rides, and we did take a drive to the nearby village of Compignano, which is within the ‘Comune di Marsciano’.

Compignano is a lovely place, with the old part of the village on top of a hill, and dates back to at least 1240.  We walked all through it, and got some good views of the countryside to the west.

On one of my rides I ventured a little further than usual, trying to see a little more of the surrounding area and villages, and how the back lanes and tracks connect to each other.

On Sunday evening the folks that have been clearing the overgrowth below us invited us – via Angelo – to join them for a bit of food to celebrate their efforts. It was very nice of them to include us, and we brought mini-meatballs that I’d prepared for our dinner (they were a hit).

Henry got a haircut and looks very smart – its amazing how shaggy he was getting already.

Each day we get to see one or two stages from previous years’ Giros – the other day we got the second-to-last day of the 2012 edition that Cdn. Ryder Hesjedal won.

Yesterday some of the lockdown restrictions were eased so we headed down to the bar to say hello to Antonio.  He and his wife were there, but they weren’t actually open – they’re doing a thorough cleaning and expect to be up and running again in a few days.  He did give us a gift, however – a very nice bottle of red wine that he opened for us so we could sit on a bench in the square and have a glass – it was lovely.

The last week has had a few exciting happenings.  First, we’d started going on daily bike rides again – yay!  We’ve taken solo rides in the mornings, as we have quite different preferences as far as the riding goes.  Colin likes to ride as hard as he can most of the time, while I tend to take more time and look at the scenery and stop frequently to take photos.  My bike also has wider tires and front suspension that makes it easier to handle the rutted and rocky back tracks better than his.

Another unusual happening had to do with ticks – Colin showed me what I could have sworn was a grey pebble about a half-inch in diameter, but it wasn’t.  He’d taken Henry to the vet and gotten a tick collar for him, and it worked.  The ‘pebble’ was actually an engorged tick and when it was turned on its back the tiny black legs wiggled – very gross.

The next exciting thing was the full moon rising on Thursday night.  I’d looked up the time and approximate direction so we took the doggies for an evening stroll up the hill.  Within a few minutes we saw the first sliver showing just above Collepepe in the east, almost exactly where we’d expected it.  It was beautiful, and I did get some good photos, although the colour was much deeper and more spectacular in person.

The last exciting thing wasn’t a happy one – Colin had gone for his morning ride and I was all ready for his return so I could go for mine.  But when he did return he told me there was a little problem – he’d hit one of the many potholes on the road leaving Papiano Stazione and taken a bad tumble.  In his sixty-odd years of riding (and racing) it was the only bad fall he’s ever had.

A passing car had stopped to help him, and the lady in the nearest house stuck her water hose through the fence so he could hose some of the blood off and assess the damage.  The motorist thought he should call an ambulance but Colin refused, instead riding the 2.5 km back home, with the car following slowly behind to make sure he got here ok – what a nice fellow!

I was super helpful – I managed to not faint or puke when I saw Colin’s injuries, then went nextdoor to see if Angelo could take Colin to the hospital.  Unfortunately Angelo wasn’t answering so I went to the young couple’s house in the nearest piazza and luckily they were home.  Even though they were preparing for a family lunch – the first one allowed in about 9 weeks – they immediately agreed to help.  Simone came right up to the house with me and escorted Colin to his car and off to the hospital in Perugia.  Marsciano is much closer, but apparently the hospital there is now exclusively for covid patients.

Simone stayed at the hospital for hours, only leaving after making sure they would call him as soon as Colin was fit to leave, which was about 4 ½ hours after arriving.  Colin said that the hospital was great – one of the first things they did was take his temperature to see if he might have covid, then they cleaned his wounds.  The cut on his left forearm was the worst – apparently it was down to the bone and required six stitches.  Otherwise it was a bunch of road rash, and also a tooth got knocked out.  And thank god for helmets.

A second dog chariot was ordered, and arrived the next day – now I’m eagerly awaiting the delivery of my new pasta making machine.  Another wonderful lamb roast was enjoyed for Sunday dinner, and spaghetti with cream sauce and truffles is on the menu tonight.

 

Yesterday was a very exciting day – some of our lockdown restrictions have been eased and we were allowed to get on our bikes again.  We hooked the chariot up to my bike and Henry got his first ride.  He wasn’t sure about it to begin with with and we had to stop and shorten his tether, but I think he did enjoy it.  Once we’re allowed to drive further from the village we’ll probably get a second chariot so each dog will have their own – Henry kind of sat on Mo some of the time, although she didn’t seem too bothered.

I was a bit nervous at first, being responsible for the doggies’ safety, but it wasn’t too bad.  And because my bike has a powerful motor even the climb up to Castello Delle Forme wasn’t a problem.  There’s a great view from the top – you can clearly see Perugia at the north end of the fertile plain with the Apennines in the distance.

Last weekend was Angelo’s birthday so Colin gave him a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label as a gift.  Three days later it was Colin’s 75th, so Angelo joined us for an after dinner glass of red wine.  He brought two gifts – one was a beautiful black and white photo of Mo and Henry that he’d had blown up and framed, and the second was a jar of black truffles.

Colin’s birthday dinner was much simpler than planned – we’d hoped to be able to have several of the locals we’ve come to know over for a party, but of course that couldn’t happen.  I’d made a great list of appies to make, but that will have to wait.  In the meantime I made a delicious pizza from scratch – I’m getting pretty good at making pita bread, and didn’t have to change much to get a decent pizza dough.

We had some of the truffles a day or two later in a nice cream sauce over pasta – it was so tasty I made it again the next day.  I’ve been trying out recipes from an Italian cookbook that’s been in the campervan for years – another great success was beef roast marinated in red wine.

One morning last week a couple of folks dressed in blue and yellow hazmat-type suits came knocking on everyone’s doors to hand out free face masks.  I haven’t needed to wear mine yet but Colin puts his on when he goes to the store.  We also had to print updated authorization forms that we carry with us whenever we go out, along with our passports.

We watched the last episode of the Borgias last night, and are both very disappointed that there wasn’t a final season to wrap all of the story lines up.  We quite enjoyed our one episode per night watching, and will now have to choose something else.

We’ve lucked out a couple of times when checking out Rai Sport – they occasionally have been showing old cycling races such as previous years’ Amstel Gold as well as a bit of a past Giro or two.  We’re still hopeful that we’ll get to see some live races later in the summer, but aren’t holding our breath.

Our daily dog walks are now followed by daily tick hunts.  Henry especially seems to pick up a lot of them.  His coat is getting shaggier but of course the grooming places are all still shut.  Mo’s coat is much shorter so the ticks are easier to spot and pick off before they start burrowing.

A couple of days ago we were sitting inside when I heard a loud noise – when I looked out onto the terrace I saw that not only was it raining on our drying laundry, but the wind had picked our sunshade/umbrella right out of its base and blown it across the terrace.  I scrambled to get the laundry off the drying rack before it got soaked, and Colin retrieved the umbrella and got it back in its base.  Such is our excitement these days!

More of the same for the last week – nice sunny days, a few rainy ones, and a bit of fierce wind – dog walks and meals are the highlights.  We feel very fortunate to be where we are right now.

Another work-party of locals continued to clear the choking vines and weeds down below us – when we went to have a look we were offered homemade donuts – we’re almost like locals now!

Some good news this morning – we might be able to start riding our bikes again a week from now, although we still won’t be able to venture outside the general area –  the ‘commune of Marsciano’.

Chairman Meow apparently has a new ‘brother’ but Angelo says they don’t get along very well – we haven’t seen him yet as the dogs, especially Henry, don’t let cats get too near.

We still have to queue at the supermarket and almost everyone still wears face-masks, but hopefully the tide is starting to turn.

I have a new pet spider – it’s on the fence of the terrace and spent most of one day mummifying a bee.

 

So – not much new here – still no bike riding, staying at home and only going out to walk the dogs or get groceries.

It must be tick season here –  after every walk now Colin is picking tiny little ticks off both of the dogs.  They must be picking them up from the grass along the sides of the paths we walk on.I’ve made a menu of finger-foods for Colin’s upcoming birthday, except the party will have to wait until the lockdown is lifted.

I found a very nice pita bread recipe, and it has come out pretty well both times I’ve tried it.  I’m unable to make hummus as we haven’t yet found any tahini, and tzatziki isn’t happening because Colin can’t tell the difference between a cucumber and a zucchini – haha!

On our walk on Easter Sunday we saw the white dove/pigeon again – he was in the pigeon lady’s yard – hopefully he won’t be in her dinner pie.

Several of the local folks have gotten together – while keeping safe distance from each other – and are clearing a large area just below the medieval wall  of brush and sucker trees. They’ve been hacking, weed whacking and burning for two days now and the area’s looking a lot tidier.

My sun rash came back with a vengeance so I had to go to the pharmacy the other day to get some more cortisone cream – after several applications it’s finally starting to recede.  Luckily I’ve been very good about covering my shoulders and upper arms, and wearing my hat so it’s only been the backs of my lower arms that got hit.

We read about what’s happening in other countries and are pretty happy to be where we are right now.  At least we’re not in the UK, or even worse, the US – I seriously think that Trump is trying to start a civil war there!  I sometimes wonder what drugs he’s on – is it coke, or maybe snorting adderall? Whatever it is he’s completely incoherent in his daily campaign rallies – oops!  press briefings – and I just wish he’d shut the f-up and people would quit paying attention to his ignorant blatherings – if only!

The past week has basically been more of the same – daily walks with the dogs, and sitting on the terrace reading and considering how fortunate we are.

There were, however, three things that had never happened before.

The first was yesterday afternoon – Good Friday – when we noticed a totally white pigeon (dove?) on the roof of the house next door.  It sat calmly for several minutes before flying away. 

Now –  we see dozens of pigeons every day, many of which have taken over a large empty house just across the lane, but we’ve never seen whitey before – a very auspicious sign perhaps?

The second event happened to Colin, not myself.  He goes alone now to do the major grocery shopping while I stay home with the little furry ones.  As he was driving he passed a carabinieri (police) who had a car pulled over. Shortly after that Colin turned left off of the ‘main’ road and a minute later the carabinieri passed him at a high rate of speed and he came upon them a moment later when they flagged him down to stop.

As usual whenever we leave the house now, he had his passport and the form that Angelo provided us with that details who we are, where we’re from, and why we’re out on the road.  Colin says that they were ever so nice, and were satisfied with the info and let him go on his way.  It was very nice to find out that we’re doing things right.

The third event was this afternoon just after lunch when I went in to get the chicken Colin had purchased ready to put in the oven.  I opened up the wrapping paper and was met with a red head with a beady eye looking at me.

Ok – it was dead, but it was staring right at me!  I called down to Colin – who was out on the terrace – that he’d have to deal with it, laughing almost hysterically.  I then looked more closely and realized that the bird still had its feet as well – more hysterical laughter followed as Colin came in and eventually managed to behead and de-feet the fowl.

Staying close to home, as we should.  Going to the Conad in Case del Colle (that has the nice butcher’s) once or twice a week for major groceries, and the little Conad in the village if we need anything else in between.  If there are people waiting outside we’re all respecting of each other’s place and space. Sometimes what would have been a fifteen minute shop takes almost an hour, but no one has been pushy or angry.

Still able to go for nice walks – yesterday we took the little ones for a really long trek and at one of the houses along the way we passed an old woman who said hello to us.  She’d just exited an out-building and was heading into her house while holding a live pigeon by its feet – pigeon pie for dinner!

The weather has vacillated greatly between snow last week and back to sunny and beautiful, although the wind the last couple of days has been fierce and there’s snow on the tops of the surrounding mountains.

On our short walk today we headed down to the village, and partway down stopped to say hello to the ‘old dog’ at the corner.  Coming out of his yard was the dog’s owner – he knew who we were, as everyone in the village does, and invited us into his house.  

He’s seen us on our bicycles, and as we entered his house we saw that he too was an aficionado.  He had two bikes right near his door – one of which was a beautiful old Pinarello. As we chatted I was able to decipher that it was 25 or 30 years old and he’d done some of the work on it himself.

He then showed us the rest of his home – the first flight of stairs up is ‘left, then right’ stepping, as the treads don’t go all the way across.  The house was three floors in all, with three bedrooms. He told us that he’d made the lovely custom headboards for each of the beds, as well as the armoire with pull-out drawers.  He seemed very proud of his handiwork, as he should be.

We then repaired to the kitchen, where he made us some very strong espressos, to which we added some very potent grappa.  In addition we were given chasers of something like sambuca, only better.

It was a lovely visit, and we managed to communicate fairly well – it seems we’re being accepted by the villagers more and more the longer we’re here.  After parting from Luigi we continued our short walk down through the village, up by the church and back home.

I must say it seemed kind of weird to actually be close to another person – even shaking his hand, without my hand sanitizer, but Luigi didn’t seem concerned.  How accustomed I’ve become to previously unthought of ‘dangers’ and I realized how nice it was to be welcomed into a ‘stranger’s’ home and to not be wary. Quite a bit to contemplate about the change in attitudes that have become by necessity the ‘norm’.

 

The last week has been more of the same, except for the weather.  Like most other people in Europe, and now – finally – those at home, we’re only allowed out for groceries or walking the dogs.

Thank god Colin has two doggies so we can both get out for an hour or so each day.

We did go to the next town again to visit the nice butchers and get a few things, but otherwise have been in the house doing a lot of reading.  The tv only gets Italian stations and there’s no sports happening – they’re down to showing football (soccer) matches from 1977 for entertainment.  The first John Wick movie was on last night, and while it was funny to hear Keanue Reeves speak fluent Italian (ok – it was dubbed) it was getting late so I gave up partway through.

The weather took a bad turn – the last few days we’ve had fierce winds, and – snow!  Colin was looking out the window and told me it was snowing and I actually didn’t believe him – I thought he was joking, and I am very gullible.

But no – it really was snowing – just a few days ago I’d taken the patio chairs out, and was quite comfortable in shorts and t-shirt, but now I have to bundle up in my winter coat and icelandic wool hat and mitts.  I’d thought I’d left winter behind, but apparently not.

I try not to obsess about the news and how badly some countries and their useless governments are coping – why didn’t they learn from the mistakes made here? 

I’m glad we’re in such a small village and not a large city, and that we can still go outside – we’re alone in the hills within two minutes, and sometimes don’t see a single other person.  We always carry our passports now, as well as the form that the police will sign if we’re ever stopped, but so far so good.

Little Henry is a bit of a rascal – he’s developed a fondness for my socks so I now have to hide them when I take them off.  We had a tug-of-war the other day with one of them, and he’s also gone after my wool hat, which must now stay safely tucked away in my backpack.

He’s also had a little ‘accident’ or two in the house, although I wonder if it’s a protest because we’re not letting him lick our plates anymore when we’re finished eating.

I really hope everyone at home and elsewhere start to behave as we and our fellow villagers are here – be considerate and respectful.  Be kind and caring. Don’t be selfish or put others in danger by going out as if nothing has changed. Maybe we can make a better world when we get over this challenge – and we will.

We had planned to ride our bikes to a larger town just north of us to get groceries, but discovered that my front tire was completely flat.  Upon removing it we found a vicious thorn about half an inch long, just like a spike – ok, Colin found it while I supervised. Ok again! – Colin found it while I watched helplessly and tried to keep the dogs out of the way.

The patch-job didn’t quite work so we gave up for the moment and drove to the store.  Upon arriving we got in line outside the store – everyone at least six feet or more from each other.  It took 15 or 20 minutes before we were allowed in, as only four or five customers were allowed at the same time, and it was a fairly large store.  

We picked up some fresh local veggies and more excellent meat from the butcher – he remembered us from our last visit and we got some lovely lamb chops as well as a nice roasting chicken, a steak and some ground beef (I’ll never be a vegetarian!).

We kind of expected to see some empty shelves, but no – here in the heart of coronavirus country we haven’t seen or experienced panic buying or ignorant hoarding of anything.

We’ve taken the dogs out every day for nice longwalks – one of the few things we’re still allowed to do.  Even recreational bike riding is now forbidden since if you have an accident you would be taking precious emergency resources away from a completely overburdened medical system trying desperately to save coronavirus victims’ lives.

We consider ourselves very fortunate to be where we are right now, despite the fact that we are right in the middle of Italy – or maybe because that’s where we are.  We’re in a lovely, comfortable little house, we have a great outdoor space, and are nowhere near a big city. The village is coping very well and the small Conad store here hasn’t run out of anything (although thanks to me they’re getting low on a certain kind of vino rosso) – could be much worse!

It’s gotten warm enough to put the patio furniture out so I spent a couple of hours this afternoon sipping some local red and reading online about the idiots in the UK and US – not just the citizens but especially the incompetent leaders – oh my god!!

Adversity brings out our true natures – we need to bring out the best in ourselves and each other. Pray for us in Italy and everywhere – whatever prayer is to you or whatever you believe in give it now!  Only good, kind, loving and positive thoughts and actions will help – thank you – from ‘the red zone’!

On a lighter note – I hardly ever take selfies, but this is me on our terrace – not bad view behind me, right?