I got back on the bike again 3 days after my little mishap – nothing hurts but I still have road rash below my right knee. I’ve started to venture further and further from Papiano, usually going generally west-ish.
On Sunday I took a little trip to Spina and back – we’ve driven through it before but never stopped. It was a nice place, and the cafe/bar on the main road was full of motorcyclists.


Yesterday I rode to Compignano, which is a lovely village we drove to a week or two ago. Just a km or so before the village I saw a dog on the side of the road – I had a hunch that I better boot it so I pumped the assistance up to the max and started pedaling as fast as I could. Sure enough the dog came at me, snarling and snapping at my left foot. I was going pretty fast but he kept up for quite a ways – I was screaming at the top of my lungs, but didn’t dare try to kick at it in case I wiped out. He finally gave up the chase and I continued on to the village.
Since I didn’t want to risk encountering the dog again on the way back I took an alternate route – a small gravel track that led to another village we’d driven through before. Almost right away I came upon a carabinieri (police) car, but they just nodded and passed me by.
The road ended up being quite perilous – very steep up, where even with the highest assistance I had to work very hard, then so steep down there were warning signs about the gradient. After my wipe-out last week I decided to be extra cautious and got off and hoofed it down.
I was going to say that I pushed the bike down, but it was more like I tried to hold it back – it seemed to take a long time to reach the bottom, and felt like I was walking on marbles the entire way.
This morning’s ride was a bit longer than planned – I haven’t bothered to hook my Garmin GPS device up yet – although I had looked at a map – and thus ended up missing a turn and found myself somewhere totally unexpected and confusing just after passing through Villanova.
Rather than compound my problem I just turned around and backtracked home. I did pass through some lovely countryside on the way, however, and just put on a few more miles than planned.
The weather has been very changeable – lots of sun, but also fierce winds as well as pounding downpours. We’ve watched a couple more Clint Eastwood movies, saving the best for last – The Good, The Bad and The Ugly – a classic for sure.
We went up to Deruta one day and got some more clay pots for a nice new succulent and the geraniums – the patio is looking very colourful!
And – I finally have to say…USA – WTF!!!
You can’t solve injustice with hate or violence, and the USA desperately needs a leader that isn’t such an incompetent dickhead!
On Tuesday we took the dogs for a nice walk along the ridge and on the way back we encountered a fellow we’ve seen several times now. He speaks fairly good english and told us that there was going to be an aerial display above Perugia. We kept walking and were just discussing if we should stay on the ridge to wait for it when we looked north towards the city as Colin said he heard something.
Sure enough there was an italian flag appearing in the sky – red white and green smoke from the Italian Air Force Trecce Tricolori Display Team. The wind was blowing fiercely but the flag was visible for some time. It was pretty cool – the display team is flying over every ‘major’ city in the country over a period of 3 or 4 days to boost morale.
That evening Colin met with the owners of the cellar below us – he’s been wanting to buy it ever since he got the house but the old lady that owned it wasn’t interested in selling. Now that she has passed on her three adult children are keen to sell, so Romena, who speaks fluent english, is now the go-between and interpreter. As long as the structural engineer says that all is good we should be able to make a deal. Not only will it make great storage for the bikes, etc, but the ceiling of the cellar can be insulated so the floor of our living room and kitchen won’t be bleeding heat on cold days.
We took another little trip to Trasimeno, this time going to one of our favourite restaurants – Il Ristoro in Monte Buono. They had only outside tables, which were setup all over the lovely lawn under the trees. We had excellent bruschetta to start, then for my main course I got the gnocchi with ragu – it was very good. Another thing to go on my Ikea shopping list will be a potato ricer so I can make my own gnocchi.
I’ve been on a few more nice rides, although I had a mishap yesterday. I was almost home from an 18km ride and was just coming down the very steep gravel lane from the ridge above us when I felt the rear tire sliding out. I wasn’t going very fast as I ride the brakes pretty much the whole way down but there was nothing I could do. I stuck my right leg out thinking I would just stop but because it was so steep there was too much momentum and down I went.
I landed hard on my right knee and shin and barely had time to stick my hands out as I face-planted into the verge on the edge of the track. It smelt faintly of mint, which is a lot better than the dog poo I could have landed in, and was also much softer than gravel or a face full of brambles.
It could have been a lot worse – I picked up my camera case, which had been thrown from the basket, then heaved the bike up and started walking down the hill. I contemplated crying, but decided it wouldn’t help. I didn’t walk far before I climbed back on the bike and slowly and gingerly made my way the last 150 meters home.
This morning the weather had turned ugly, so no bike ride. My leg doesn’t feel too bad, but my muscles and joints are sore and the bridge of my nose throbs – wearing my glasses does not help the pain, but I don’t think the nose is broken.
We’re enjoying the loosening of the lockdown rules, visiting Antonio’s bar daily for a nice cappuccino (or glass of red, depending in the time if day) as well as a trip to a garden centre up near Perugia. We’ve finally been advised that both the owner of the cellar below us and the owner of the empty lot next door are wanting to sell so we had a look at some plants to decorate the expanded terrace area. We also picked up a few hangers for some geraniums Colin had already gotten.
We also went to the large sporting goods store Decathlon so Colin could get some tape to replace the mangled area on his handlebars from his crash – there was a fellow at the entrance taking everyone’s temperature, and several tables with hand sanitizers. Luckily I still have my lovely lavender spray that I brought with me, and also everyone was wearing facemasks.
Mo and Henry had a little kerfluffle one night at bedtime – I think she gets a little jealous of him at times and feels the need to prove her dominance, although she’s barely half his size. She happily spent the night with me in my room to keep the peace.
One of the doctors that changed Colin’s dressings at the clinic actually has a small office in the village, right above the little Conad store – he visited her one day and got all of his prescriptions renewed. When he asked what her fee was she said ‘oh no – we’re friends!’. He did need a second round of antibiotics for the elbow gash, but the stitches were removed a few days later.
I’m still going on lots of lovely rides, although trying to get out a bit earlier in the morning before it gets too hot. Everything is so green and lush looking, and the air is so clear – it’s just beautiful wherever you look – bright, vivid colours and I am just loving being ‘stuck’ here.
There was another gathering of the locals down below us who’ve been helping clear the overgrown brush – our neighbour saw me on the terrace looking out and motioned for us to join them. We brought down some of my tzatziki dip with carrot sticks and a bowl of mixed nuts as our contribution – not quite as impressive as last week’s meatballs, but better than nothing.
There’s also been a nice cleanup of the small park/memorial/fountain in the village square – they painted the benches as well as the inside of the fountain and it really looks smart. It’s got to be one of the nicer village piazzas around.
We took a nice little trip to Lake Trasimeno today and it was just beautiful – the water was a gorgeous green, although the dead fish all along the shore weren’t so nice.
The little ferries aren’t running again yet, and there weren’t that many people about – especially screaming kids. It was quite lovely strolling along the waterside promenade.


We’re still sticking pretty close to home, although I have gone on a couple of nice bike rides, and we did take a drive to the nearby village of Compignano, which is within the ‘Comune di Marsciano’.
Compignano is a lovely place, with the old part of the village on top of a hill, and dates back to at least 1240. We walked all through it, and got some good views of the countryside to the west.


On one of my rides I ventured a little further than usual, trying to see a little more of the surrounding area and villages, and how the back lanes and tracks connect to each other.
On Sunday evening the folks that have been clearing the overgrowth below us invited us – via Angelo – to join them for a bit of food to celebrate their efforts. It was very nice of them to include us, and we brought mini-meatballs that I’d prepared for our dinner (they were a hit).
Henry got a haircut and looks very smart – its amazing how shaggy he was getting already.
Each day we get to see one or two stages from previous years’ Giros – the other day we got the second-to-last day of the 2012 edition that Cdn. Ryder Hesjedal won.
Yesterday some of the lockdown restrictions were eased so we headed down to the bar to say hello to Antonio. He and his wife were there, but they weren’t actually open – they’re doing a thorough cleaning and expect to be up and running again in a few days. He did give us a gift, however – a very nice bottle of red wine that he opened for us so we could sit on a bench in the square and have a glass – it was lovely.
The last week has had a few exciting happenings. First, we’d started going on daily bike rides again – yay! We’ve taken solo rides in the mornings, as we have quite different preferences as far as the riding goes. Colin likes to ride as hard as he can most of the time, while I tend to take more time and look at the scenery and stop frequently to take photos. My bike also has wider tires and front suspension that makes it easier to handle the rutted and rocky back tracks better than his.
Another unusual happening had to do with ticks – Colin showed me what I could have sworn was a grey pebble about a half-inch in diameter, but it wasn’t. He’d taken Henry to the vet and gotten a tick collar for him, and it worked. The ‘pebble’ was actually an engorged tick and when it was turned on its back the tiny black legs wiggled – very gross.
The next exciting thing was the full moon rising on Thursday night. I’d looked up the time and approximate direction so we took the doggies for an evening stroll up the hill. Within a few minutes we saw the first sliver showing just above Collepepe in the east, almost exactly where we’d expected it. It was beautiful, and I did get some good photos, although the colour was much deeper and more spectacular in person.
The last exciting thing wasn’t a happy one – Colin had gone for his morning ride and I was all ready for his return so I could go for mine. But when he did return he told me there was a little problem – he’d hit one of the many potholes on the road leaving Papiano Stazione and taken a bad tumble. In his sixty-odd years of riding (and racing) it was the only bad fall he’s ever had.
I was super helpful – I managed to not faint or puke when I saw Colin’s injuries, then went nextdoor to see if Angelo could take Colin to the hospital. Unfortunately Angelo wasn’t answering so I went to the young couple’s house in the nearest piazza and luckily they were home. Even though they were preparing for a family lunch – the first one allowed in about 9 weeks – they immediately agreed to help. Simone came right up to the house with me and escorted Colin to his car and off to the hospital in Perugia. Marsciano is much closer, but apparently the hospital there is now exclusively for covid patients.
A second dog chariot was ordered, and arrived the next day – now I’m eagerly awaiting the delivery of my new pasta making machine. Another wonderful lamb roast was enjoyed for Sunday dinner, and spaghetti with cream sauce and truffles is on the menu tonight.
Yesterday was a very exciting day – some of our lockdown restrictions have been eased and we were allowed to get on our bikes again. We hooked the chariot up to my bike and Henry got his first ride. He wasn’t sure about it to begin with with and we had to stop and shorten his tether, but I think he did enjoy it. Once we’re allowed to drive further from the village we’ll probably get a second chariot so each dog will have their own – Henry kind of sat on Mo some of the time, although she didn’t seem too bothered.
I was a bit nervous at first, being responsible for the doggies’ safety, but it wasn’t too bad. And because my bike has a powerful motor even the climb up to Castello Delle Forme wasn’t a problem. There’s a great view from the top – you can clearly see Perugia at the north end of the fertile plain with the Apennines in the distance.
Last weekend was Angelo’s birthday so Colin gave him a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label as a gift. Three days later it was Colin’s 75th, so Angelo joined us for an after dinner glass of red wine. He brought two gifts – one was a beautiful black and white photo of Mo and Henry that he’d had blown up and framed, and the second was a jar of black truffles.
Colin’s birthday dinner was much simpler than planned – we’d hoped to be able to have several of the locals we’ve come to know over for a party, but of course that couldn’t happen. I’d made a great list of appies to make, but that will have to wait. In the meantime I made a delicious pizza from scratch – I’m getting pretty good at making pita bread, and didn’t have to change much to get a decent pizza dough.
We had some of the truffles a day or two later in a nice cream sauce over pasta – it was so tasty I made it again the next day. I’ve been trying out recipes from an Italian cookbook that’s been in the campervan for years – another great success was beef roast marinated in red wine.
One morning last week a couple of folks dressed in blue and yellow hazmat-type suits came knocking on everyone’s doors to hand out free face masks. I haven’t needed to wear mine yet but Colin puts his on when he goes to the store. We also had to print updated authorization forms that we carry with us whenever we go out, along with our passports.
We watched the last episode of the Borgias last night, and are both very disappointed that there wasn’t a final season to wrap all of the story lines up. We quite enjoyed our one episode per night watching, and will now have to choose something else.
We’ve lucked out a couple of times when checking out Rai Sport – they occasionally have been showing old cycling races such as previous years’ Amstel Gold as well as a bit of a past Giro or two. We’re still hopeful that we’ll get to see some live races later in the summer, but aren’t holding our breath.
Our daily dog walks are now followed by daily tick hunts. Henry especially seems to pick up a lot of them. His coat is getting shaggier but of course the grooming places are all still shut. Mo’s coat is much shorter so the ticks are easier to spot and pick off before they start burrowing.
A couple of days ago we were sitting inside when I heard a loud noise – when I looked out onto the terrace I saw that not only was it raining on our drying laundry, but the wind had picked our sunshade/umbrella right out of its base and blown it across the terrace. I scrambled to get the laundry off the drying rack before it got soaked, and Colin retrieved the umbrella and got it back in its base. Such is our excitement these days!
More of the same for the last week – nice sunny days, a few rainy ones, and a bit of fierce wind – dog walks and meals are the highlights. We feel very fortunate to be where we are right now.

Another work-party of locals continued to clear the choking vines and weeds down below us – when we went to have a look we were offered homemade donuts – we’re almost like locals now!
Some good news this morning – we might be able to start riding our bikes again a week from now, although we still won’t be able to venture outside the general area – the ‘commune of Marsciano’.

Ch
We still have to queue at the supermarket and almost everyone still wears face-masks, but hopefully the tide is starting to turn.
I have a new pet spider – it’s on the fence of the terrace and spent most of one day mummifying a bee.
So – not much new here – still no bike riding, staying at home and only going out to walk the dogs or get groceries.

I found a very nice pita bread recipe, and it has come out pretty well both times I’ve tried it. I’m unable to make hummus as we haven’t yet found any tahini, and tzatziki isn’t happening because Colin can’t tell the difference between a cucumber and a zucchini – haha!
On our walk on Easter Sunday we saw the white dove/pigeon again – he was in the pigeon lady’s yard – hopefully he won’t be in her dinner pie.
Several of the local folks have gotten together – while keeping safe distance from each other – and are clearing a large area just below the medieval wall of brush and sucker trees. They’ve been hacking, weed whacking and burning for two days now and the area’s looking a lot tidier.
My sun rash came back with a vengeance so I had to go to the pharmacy the other day to get some more cortisone cream – after several applications it’s finally starting to recede. Luckily I’ve been very good about covering my shoulders and upper arms, and wearing my hat so it’s only been the backs of my lower arms that got hit.
We read about what’s happening in other countries and are pretty happy to be where we are right now. At least we’re not in the UK, or even worse, the US – I seriously think that Trump is trying to start a civil war there! I sometimes wonder what drugs he’s on – is it coke, or maybe snorting adderall? Whatever it is he’s completely incoherent in his daily campaign rallies – oops! press briefings – and I just wish he’d shut the f-up and people would quit paying attention to his ignorant blatherings – if only!
The past week has basically been more of the same – daily walks with the dogs, and sitting on the terrace reading and considering how fortunate we are.
There were, however, three things that had never happened before.
The first was yesterday afternoon – Good Friday – when we noticed a totally white pigeon (dove?) on the roof of the house next door. It sat calmly for several minutes before flying away.
Now – we see dozens of pigeons every day, many of which have taken over a large empty house just across the lane, but we’ve never seen whitey before – a very auspicious sign perhaps?
As usual whenever we leave the house now, he had his passport and the form that Angelo provided us with that details who we are, where we’re from, and why we’re out on the road. Colin says that they were ever so nice, and were satisfied with the info and let him go on his way. It was very nice to find out that we’re doing things right.
The third event was this afternoon just after lunch when I went in to get the chicken Colin had purchased ready to put in the oven. I opened up the wrapping paper and was met with a red head with a beady eye looking at me.
Ok – it was dead, but it was staring right at me! I called down to Colin – who was out on the terrace – that he’d have to deal with it, laughing almost hysterically. I then looked more closely and realized that the bird still had its feet as well – more hysterical laughter followed as Colin came in and eventually managed to behead and de-feet the fowl.
Staying close to home, as we should. Going to the Conad in Case del Colle (that has the nice butcher’s) once or twice a week for major groceries, and the little Conad in the village if we need anything else in between. If there are people waiting outside we’re all respecting of each other’s place and space. Sometimes what would have been a fifteen minute shop takes almost an hour, but no one has been pushy or angry.
Still able to go for nice walks – yesterday we took the little ones for a really long trek and at one of the houses along the way we passed an old woman who said hello to us. She’d just exited an out-building and was heading into her house while holding a live pigeon by its feet – pigeon pie for dinner!
The weather has vacillated greatly between snow last week and back to sunny and beautiful, although the wind the last couple of days has been fierce and there’s snow on the tops of the surrounding mountains.
On ou
He’s seen us on our bicycles, and as we entered his house we saw that he too was an aficionado. He had two bikes right near his door – one of which was a beautiful old Pinarello. As we chatted I was able to decipher that it was 25 or 30 years old and he’d done some of the work on it himself.
He then showed us the rest of his home – the first flight of stairs up is ‘left, then right’ stepping, as the treads don’t go all the way across. The house was three floors in all, with three bedrooms. He told us that he’d made the lovely custom headboards for each of the beds, as well as the armoire with pull-out drawers. He seemed very proud of his handiwork, as he should be.
We then repaired to the kitchen, where he made us some very strong espressos, to which we added some very potent grappa. In addition we were given chasers of something like sambuca, only better.
It was a lovely visit, and we managed to communicate fairly well – it seems we’re being accepted by the villagers more and more the longer we’re here. After parting from Luigi we continued our short walk down through the village, up by the church and back home.
I must say it seemed kind of weird to actually be close to another person – even shaking his hand, without my hand sanitizer, but Luigi didn’t seem concerned. How accustomed I’ve become to previously unthought of ‘dangers’ and I realized how nice it was to be welcomed into a ‘stranger’s’ home and to not be wary. Quite a bit to contemplate about the change in attitudes that have become by necessity the ‘norm’.